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Discussion Starter #1
We just started in on our one acre pond build. Right now we are stripping topsoil and prepping the site. It will be an excavated pond (i.e. no dam) and constructed in some of Indiana's finest clay. :bigthumb: The test hole we dug in March has held water very well. It will be dug to a depth of roughly 20ft and most of the dirt will be used to create a massive berm on our property. It will be stocked and will also have a beach area. I plan to have a solar powered aerator in it as well. That said, anyone out there have any pointers/advice/lessons learned that they would be willing to share? Open to input on the construction, maintenance, fish structure, stocking, etc. Thanks all!
 

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We just started in on our one acre pond build. Right now we are stripping topsoil and prepping the site. It will be an excavated pond (i.e. no dam) and constructed in some of Indiana's finest clay. :bigthumb: The test hole we dug in March has held water very well. It will be dug to a depth of roughly 20ft and most of the dirt will be used to create a massive berm on our property. It will be stocked and will also have a beach area. I plan to have a solar powered aerator in it as well. That said, anyone out there have any pointers/advice/lessons learned that they would be willing to share? Open to input on the construction, maintenance, fish structure, stocking, etc. Thanks all!
How do you plan on filling the pond? Does a good amount of your property drain to the spot where your pond is being dug out?
 

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Waiting to follow along

That's a lot of dirt to move. . . but should be a good project when finished.

If you are going to stock the pond with fish, try to leave some structure for the fish. A barrel with both ends cut out, gnarly tree stump etc. is good for fish, not so good for swimmers so you want to mark any swimming hazards. An alternative is to not have the bottom completely smooth but have some up down variation for little fish to get away from big fish.

The aeration should help but hopefully by going that deep you can get some spring inflow. If not, you may get algae. For some reason, barley straw takes care of that. Not wheat straw or hay, only barley straw seems to work. :dunno:

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
How do you plan on filling the pond? Does a good amount of your property drain to the spot where your pond is being dug out?

We have a direct watershed of about 5 acres to fill it plus ground water. Both the county surveyor and the farmer who plans to help us dig it (he owns about 1k acres in the area and has dug several ponds) believes we should have no trouble keeping it full.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's a lot of dirt to move. . . but should be a good project when finished.

If you are going to stock the pond with fish, try to leave some structure for the fish. A barrel with both ends cut out, gnarly tree stump etc. is good for fish, not so good for swimmers so you want to mark any swimming hazards. An alternative is to not have the bottom completely smooth but have some up down variation for little fish to get away from big fish.

The aeration should help but hopefully by going that deep you can get some spring inflow. If not, you may get algae. For some reason, barley straw takes care of that. Not wheat straw or hay, only barley straw seems to work. :dunno:

Treefarmer
Appreciate the advice. Yes, we are in the midst of researching pond structure, spawn beds, etc. Stumps, logs, Christmas trees, and pallets will likely find their way into our pond. So you sink full bales of barley straw to combat algae? I'll have to look into that further. We are banking on some springs during the dig as well.

Yes, it is going to be a LOT of dirt! The farmer I referenced in my most recent post has all the toys necessary to make this happen. I just brought in a D4H last week to start with topsoil removal. I got some good seat time in on it over the weekend. :yahoo:
 

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Barley straw

Appreciate the advice. Yes, we are in the midst of researching pond structure, spawn beds, etc. Stumps, logs, Christmas trees, and pallets will likely find their way into our pond. So you sink full bales of barley straw to combat algae? I'll have to look into that further. We are banking on some springs during the dig as well.

Yes, it is going to be a LOT of dirt! The farmer I referenced in my most recent post has all the toys necessary to make this happen. I just brought in a D4H last week to start with topsoil removal. I got some good seat time in on it over the weekend. :yahoo:[/QUOTE

I don't know why barley straw works, I wish I did. You can find articles on the internet giving quantities necessary etc. It's weird to me that it's only barley straw but since I don't know why it works, I don't know why other bales don't work.

I envy you the seat time on the dozer. I've only played with one a little, it would be fun to try and actually get a feel for using one. Maybe some day, I'll rent one as a present to myself. . .

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Appreciate the advice. Yes, we are in the midst of researching pond structure, spawn beds, etc. Stumps, logs, Christmas trees, and pallets will likely find their way into our pond. So you sink full bales of barley straw to combat algae? I'll have to look into that further. We are banking on some springs during the dig as well.

Yes, it is going to be a LOT of dirt! The farmer I referenced in my most recent post has all the toys necessary to make this happen. I just brought in a D4H last week to start with topsoil removal. I got some good seat time in on it over the weekend. :yahoo:[/QUOTE

I don't know why barley straw works, I wish I did. You can find articles on the internet giving quantities necessary etc. It's weird to me that it's only barley straw but since I don't know why it works, I don't know why other bales don't work.

I envy you the seat time on the dozer. I've only played with one a little, it would be fun to try and actually get a feel for using one. Maybe some day, I'll rent one as a present to myself. . .

Treefarmer
I'll definitely look more into the barley straw! Thanks!

Yea, day one on the dozer and it was very apparent I was a novice. By day two I didn't look so silly. ha I am going to video most of this process, so it will all hit our YouTube channel at some point!
 

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Have you got an overflow structure in mind? I work for a civil engineering firm and when we design a lake, we always put in trench under the dam. This is to make sure there is nothing under the dam that would cause problems, such as poor soils or field tile. I know you aren't building a dam but you do want to make sure there are not field tile.
 

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Appreciate the advice. Yes, we are in the midst of researching pond structure, spawn beds, etc. Stumps, logs, Christmas trees, and pallets will likely find their way into our pond. So you sink full bales of barley straw to combat algae? I'll have to look into that further. We are banking on some springs during the dig as well.

Yes, it is going to be a LOT of dirt! The farmer I referenced in my most recent post has all the toys necessary to make this happen. I just brought in a D4H last week to start with topsoil removal. I got some good seat time in on it over the weekend. :yahoo:
i couldnt resist posting this pic of our d4hxl3 :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Have you got an overflow structure in mind? I work for a civil engineering firm and when we design a lake, we always put in trench under the dam. This is to make sure there is nothing under the dam that would cause problems, such as poor soils or field tile. I know you aren't building a dam but you do want to make sure there are not field tile.
The overflow will be a 12 inch pipe at the water surface level on the area of the pond with the lowest banks. With no dam, we won't have need for a core trench. The only field tile on the property is about 250 feet away from the pond.
 

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i couldnt resist posting this pic of our d4hxl3 :bigthumb:
A cab and a ripper!! Just a canopy and drawbar for me. The heat index was 111 degrees here this past weekend. Made for some HOT seat time. :flag_of_truce:
 

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A cab and a ripper!! Just a canopy and drawbar for me. The heat index was 111 degrees here this past weekend. Made for some HOT seat time. :flag_of_truce:

Heat only.....no AC....but the cab sure helps with the dust,dirt, tree branches...... they are sure fine little dozers they do a lot more than their size would imply ......ripper makes a huge difference in stripping.....

thought i would stimulate you to start adding pictures LOL...
 

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And here it is in action!

:bigthumb: great video--i don't know what yr cat started with the upper carrier roller on the high tracks-but back when i worked down close to D.C. for a company, they bought a brand new one-in 87-and it had no carrier roller like urs does.
go back and watch ur start up--it blew smoke threw the radiator--better be looking for that exhaust leak soon, as it will plug the radiator up good-at least that's what happened with ones i ran-that blew smoke threw the rad. like that. probably a loose manifold-or gasket is burnt out.

if u want to push more dirt with one pass--channel push or slot push--stay in one line--get some windrows on both sides of blade--that will help keep the dirt in front of the blade instead of it falling off the sides as u push.

and finally stay off them steering clutches as u are pushing with a full blade--u can help turn ur machine by tilting the blade u want to go or turn some. just not a good idea to yank on them if ur using down pressure on the blade. lift the blade some if u have to turn the direction of machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
:bigthumb: great video--i don't know what yr cat started with the upper carrier roller on the high tracks-but back when i worked down close to D.C. for a company, they bought a brand new one-in 87-and it had no carrier roller like urs does.
go back and watch ur start up--it blew smoke threw the radiator--better be looking for that exhaust leak soon, as it will plug the radiator up good-at least that's what happened with ones i ran-that blew smoke threw the rad. like that. probably a loose manifold-or gasket is burnt out.

if u want to push more dirt with one pass--channel push or slot push--stay in one line--get some windrows on both sides of blade--that will help keep the dirt in front of the blade instead of it falling off the sides as u push.

and finally stay off them steering clutches as u are pushing with a full blade--u can help turn ur machine by tilting the blade u want to go or turn some. just not a good idea to yank on them if ur using down pressure on the blade. lift the blade some if u have to turn the direction of machine.
Thanks for the advice! There are more videos coming, and I do end up doing a lot of 'slot' dozing. It greatly increased my production. I'm working on such a wide area though that sometimes it's not feasible. This unit is an '86. I noticed that exhaust, but didn't know what to think of it. I'll take a peek and see what I find.

Noted on the clutches. I learned quickly that this dozer can easily be manipulated using the blade itself. Heavy compared to most machines we have, but still a "small" dozer. Appreciate the input!
 

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We are about a month behind on videos, but here is the beginning of actual pond construction! The farmer down the road brought down some of his toys to play... and there are more on the way! Enjoy!

 

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