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Opinions on how to weld this crack on my fel bucket.

4243 Views 24 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Gizmo2
I was thinking of running a thin zip disc along the length of the crack and then welding it.
But then I got to thinking maybe I should just weld it as is or perhaps grind a small 'V' and long the crack.
I can and plan on hammering the ends to align.
What would you do and thanks in advance.

779474
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If you want it pretty when done, vee it, weld it, grind flat. If looks don't matter weld it up as is. I would drill a small hole at the end of the crack before welding either way.
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^^^^^ agree ........preferably disconnect bucket before welding ....or unhook battery
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I agree with both comments
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Stick or mig?
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All of the above. I would go one further and weld a fish plate under it since youre going to fix er up
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779506


Definitely drill a small hole in this area. You could probably get by with an 1/8 inch bit as small as the crack appears. 1/4 inch may be ok as well. Weld a scab plate on bottom and when your done you can weld on top and cover the crack and hole. Grind and paint to suit. (y)



* If you're lost with the hole concept you can experiment with a piece of notebook paper. Try to stop a tear in the paper using a hole punch.
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Definitely drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it. Then do as the other have said to grind a "V" and weld it back up. Grind it smooth then prime and paint.
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Can we see a bigger picture of where the crack is.
My first thought, just weld it. I assume it's pretty thin steel.
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Can we see a bigger picture of where the crack is.
My first thought, just weld it. I assume it's pretty thin steel.
Sorry, no bigger pic at the moment but it's on the top front lip in the center of the bucket.
I now think that I'll drill the small hole, put a quick vee on it, zip it up, grind it and spray it.
Thanks everyone.
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Yeah definitely drill a hole at the end of the crack, I would go 1/4" or bigger since you want to make absolutely sure you take out the end of it. Then vee it out and weld it on both sides.
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No need to vee metal that thin. Drilling a hole at the end may help but I'm not sure about it. There is a greater chance of blowing a hole in it if you do either. I would try to find some metal about the same thickness to practice on first to get my heat and feed right.

I would just straighten with a hammer and dolly (or two hammers) and weld it up. If you can get to both sides I would run a bead on both sides then grind it smooth..
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So the big question is how鈥檇 you crack your bucket?
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No need to vee metal that thin. Drilling a hole at the end may help but I'm not sure about it. There is a greater chance of blowing a hole in it if you do either. I would try to find some metal about the same thickness to practice on first to get my heat and feed right.

I would just straighten with a hammer and dolly (or two hammers) and weld it up. If you can get to both sides I would run a bead on both sides then grind it smooth..

I had pretty good luck with an 1/8" drill bit to stop the cracks, and grinding the cracks on my snow blower housing a few months back. Welding it back up with my flux core welder worked great.

The drill hole at the end of the crack releases the stress in the metal and stops the crack from reforming. Just welding the crack back over without removing the stress in the metal makes the repair prone to the same failure down the road.

779529
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That's a great tip! Might come in handy down the road.
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So the big question is how鈥檇 you crack your bucket?
Ah, it came that way so I really don't know for sure but I can imagine how it happened.
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Can we see a bigger picture of where the crack is.

Back up to a mirror.

Put on your glasses.

Bend down and look back.

There it is. :whistle:






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:D :unsure:
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No need to vee metal that thin. Drilling a hole at the end may help but I'm not sure about it.
(y) That was my point.
And, just for the heck of it...
Green Motor vehicle Automotive tire Grass Gas
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