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Ordering a 2025R... judge me (Questions).

8347 Views 78 Replies 39 Participants Last post by  Old_Postman
Hey all, after MANY years of wanting a property where I could have a tractor (yes, this was a life goal :) ) we're finally building a house on a 5 acre field and I have a "need" for one. There are going to be a lot of jobs on the property, including seeding a lawn, dealing with fallen trees, moving top soil and crushed rock, maintaining a 400ft gravel driveway, planting a garden (well tilling for one anyway), moving smoker and fire wood, landscaping (putting in stone, gardens, other things I'd like to do myself), removing snow from aforementioned driveway, etc. Basically anything that needs to be moved, placed, maintained. It's a long lot, over 1000ft deep, so I won't be moving things around easily with just a wheelbarrow and a shovel.

I am not buying it to mow however. A mower deck costs the same as a 3 series zero turn, and a zero turn will apparently do a much better job, much faster, and will be easier to deal with. Just doesn't make sense for me.

I also don't feel I need a backhoe. Let me rephrase, I don't feel I need a backhoe for $9000 CDN. That is likely a lot of mini excavator rentals (which is apparently better anyway), and everything I need trenched is already trenched. I may be building a shed with a power run, or a water line out to a garden, but I can do that with a rental. And 1/3 of that $9000 will buy me a nice trailer. The dealer actually told me not to get it because it's too expensive. I was surprised by that, but he's not wrong.

I decided to go with a 2025R for several reasons: Weight, ground clearance, tire size, price, and driving position. Comparing with the 1025R I am just happier with it. The controls sit higher up in the 2025R which to me gives it a more engaging feel. The tire size is much larger which will no doubt make for better traction, and add weight when filled. Not a huge difference in ground clearance but not insignificant either. Finally, the price difference between the two is a few grand. For me, this makes it a no brainer.

I considered a 2032R but the price difference is huge. It also may be a lot more than I need. The added loader capacity might be nice but at what cost. I am still considering it though.

When building the tractor, I found all of the possible options on the tractor a bit confusing on the web site, and I didn't know what some were. I felt like I could be missing things. For example, I selected wheel weights but didn't add the mounting hardware because, in my mind, why would you not include the hardware you need to mount the weights when you sell the weights?? But this is the high level sheet I put together for what I mostly know from my enormous number of searches on this forum.


TractorCommentsOption Code
2025R This part is important
iMatch Quick Hitch Cat 1Adjustable top hook (because adjustable seems like a good idea)LVB25976
Factory Installed Loader with Bucket120R w/MSL
1701​
Tires FilledFill rear tires w/liquid?
Rear Wheel Weight, 60 lb (27.2 kg)Weight!BM17965
Attaching Hardware for Rear Wheel Weight, 60 lbObviouslyBM17987
Ballast BoxFilled with concreteBW15073
3rd SCV or MidBig question here, do I need more hydro??
Premium LED Work Light KitI could see this being useful and I like lightBLV10673
Engine Coolant Heater KitBecause CanadaBLV10640
Engine Block Heater AdapterBecause CanadaAM134805
Auto-Throttle KitDo I want this?BLV10784
3-Point Hitch Tractor Receiver HitchLikely useful for a trailer…LP25001
Attachments
Loader ForksAP10F vs 11F? 42" seems like a good idea
TillerFor tilling. This one has gears, 6 tines, etc. Can't buy King Kutter in Canada, going with Frontier I guessRT3049
SnowblowerNot plowing, I live in the snow beltSB1154
SpreaderSS20B iMatch w/agitator. This is an option... but I feel it will be very useful. Unless there's another, cheaper option for spreading seed, fertilizer, and other things across 2 acres of grass?SS2067B
Box BladeWill be very handy for the driveway, land, garden?BB5060

I am trying to roll as much into the 0% finance as possible so I am adding whatever I can now that's reasonable. I am not looking to light money on fire, but if it makes sense I'd do it.

I have sent this to the dealer to get a quote, and to review, but I have some questions:

1) Is there anything I am missing or given my use case I might want? There's so many little options on the web site I feel I might miss something.

2) I considered the 2032R... as I am not mowing, it's an option. But my god is it expensive! And might be more than I really need. Any thoughts on this? Is this a "no you dont need anything like that for 5 acres" or "yeah considering what you're planning to do and without mowing, if you can swing it, do it".

3) Do I need more hydraulics? The 3rd SCV option is there but it's almost $1000. What do people use it for? If I got a grapple, depending on price, honestly I'd probably just get an electric one. How hard are they to install on your own afterwards?

4) What is the consensus on the auto throttle kit? Any downsides?

Anyway, I am really excited to get this tractor, expected delivery is allegedly around July but who knows. We take possession of the house July 20th and I won't realistically need this until Sept. which is when I want to seed some of the lawn. If I get it early I will probably use it to drive around my driveway, just because :) I'll probably have to clean up builder mess as well.

-J
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Yep, my thoughts exactly! Where we will be living is quite dark (no light pollution at all) so I may not NEED a ton of light but I've always thought more is better just in case you need it.

I forgot to mention, I am 100% getting Versaturfs for tires. Apparently they are great for snow, turf, dirt, everything.

If you are getting it for snow removal then the MORE lights you have the better. Cause it is always dark when you need to remove snow. I have the Premium Light kit on my 2038R and it works great, I will be adding a another rear light cause I want all 4 of the lights pointed forward which leave only the small hitch light for the rear and is not really enough.

I would get filled tires, you did not mention the type of tire but dont get R4. I have the R3+ (radial) on my 2038R and they did great snow blowing up some pretty steep hills. They also work well in the woods and shed the mud pretty quickly.
With the uses that you have listed I don't see why the 2025r wouldn't fit your needs just fine. I would go with the ap10f forks if you go the 2025r route, they are lighter and less expensive.
Sounds good but does lighter mean more fragile?

Not sure if rear hydraulics are an option on the 2025R but if you are doing box blade work having a Top and Tilt hydraulics makes it so much easier. And getting the rear SCV from the factory is a good bit easier than doing it after the fact.
Rear hydro is apparently a selectable option provided you don't have Power Beyond, which from what I can tell is more useful for a backhoe.

That's a good point... I wouldn't mind top and tilt if I can do it. I'll look more into it, thanks!
Interesting, I'd be quite okay with that. I'll have a look.

As mentioned earlier, I'd go a cheaper route than Deere LED's. The cheapies on Amazon can be replaced 10 times over usually before you've paid for the Deere's.
Another option is an electronic rear SCV. Summit Hydraulics has one that works off the PowerBeyond that has been installed on a few 2025's that I'm aware of. I've got a 4 spool version on my 1025R, that runs off the PB. Definitely get one or the other if you intend to do a lot of box blading and don't want to keep getting on/off to adjust the top and side links. This might end up being a cheaper option, but not factory... if that matters. Link
So I'd get the power beyond from the factory, and then add this? I don't really care if it's factory or not, as long as it's reliable and installs cleanly (which it appears to).

Oh also a hdyro top link makes hooking up with a quick hitch even easier, not that it is a requirement for it and not a reason to get it on its own but is a nice added bonus.
I didn't see the option on their site for this.. I'll look again. I did want this...

From my experience five acres initially sounds like a lot of land, but once driveways, house, outbuildings, garages, workshops, parking for equipment and such go in, a good chunk of the acres in dirt is gone. I am not saying you don’t need a tractor, but lots of folks live on 5 acres without one.

I live on 5 acres myself. Once the initial preparation and building was done, about 3 acres in dirt was left, and it is now all grass pastures for a couple of horses. My tractor now serves as a diesel powered wheelbarrow for moving manure, and also as my lawn mower and fertilizer spreader. Most of those implements I bought initially - box blade, rotary cutter, landscape rake, and tiller, have been sitting unused for the past 5 years. The zero percent financing really tempts a person to overbuy. Things like auto-throttle, additional hydraulics, and grapple may be overkill for limited acreage. Smaller things like the three point receiver hitch for example, are significantly less expensive to buy elsewhere.
Oh there's no question it's not a MUST, I put "need" in quotes :) It's a want, to some extent, but I know I'll love it and it will make my life that much easier and enjoyable. We have a lot of plans for our lot as well, and I am a big DIYer. We won't have many outbuildings, I already have a detached 24x36 workshop for equipment storage being built, there might be a garden shed but that's it. If my implements sit unused for a few years and I feel they wont be used, I'll evaluate and maybe sell them. I am probably overbuying to some extent but I really thought about each one and do feel I will use it. I may not go through with all of them right away though. I am looking at alternatives, particularly for the spreader.

-J
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Thanks for all the replies everyone, this is awesome, and extremely helpful. Lots of great comments. I will need to redo my build sheet :)

2025R vs 2032R
This is still a consideration, especially after reading these posts :) The price for me is so high though, that I don't know whether I want to do it. I would like the extra power, and the extra loader capacity... some great points made on the additional loss of power with filled tires, etc. I have a relatively flat yard though. I also like the controls better on the 2032R. I don't know, it seems like a better tractor but the price difference... yikes. I am going to work out the final difference in price with all options, and decide from there.

Lighting
Thanks for all the feedback on this, I think I am going to pull the lighting out of the options list and get aftermarket. I don't want to pay more for LED's than I have to.

Land Plane / Box Blade / Rear Blade
I had considered a land plane but they are a bit pricey, and it seems like a box blade can do the same thing? Maybe not AS good, but close? Plus it has a bit more capability especially when it comes to repairing potholes. Not sure, I might have to do more research on it and see whether I can justify the cost for both...

There seems to be a lot of crossover in capability between box blade, land plane, rear blade, etc. It's certainly challenging to decide.

There's also the landscape rake which might be useful for rocks / debris / etc.

I am sure, without trying very hard, I could have 15 implements in my garage very quickly :)

Ballast / Box
I never even considered using the box blade for ballast, didn't think it was heavy enough. A search shows the BB5060 box blade I tentatively chose is only ~350lbs, which is 400lbs short of the rear hitch weight requirement for a fully loaded 120R FEL. Unless I am missing something? Maybe I need to find a heavier box blade :)

The reason I went with filled tires, weights, AND ballast box is because I read the more weight the better / more stable when the loader is full. I should do the math on the ballast and figure it out. If I can avoid wheel weights, great, then use the box blade, even better. Then if I need more for whatever reason, add weight later.

NSL vs MSL Loader
I saw the TTWT video on it and while the MSL does have the odd binding issue it doesn't seem to be too bad, and doesn't seem to outweigh the value of having the loader self level. When I was watching the video, the maneuvers which caused the binding are avoidable. I am thinking of using it for pallets and unloading / loading onto a vehicle or trailer once in a while. Not a lot, but some. And if it will make the process easier I figure why not. Plus when lifting and carrying gravel, soil, etc it might be useful. I am going to rewatch the video though, and see if I am still okay with it. I also don't know if the MSL costs more, Deere's site doesn't seem to indicate this.

Hydraulics
I am heavily leaning on adding a Power Beyond kit (which is relatively inexpensive) so I can add the Summit hydraulic rear remote. Seems the 3rd SCV is ~$950CDN for 1 spool. Meanwhile I can get PB and the summit kit which gives 2-4 spools and an electric control for about the same price. I do like that. Unless I am missing something, this seems to be the way to go. I don't plan on splitting wood with it, I had read it wasn't strong enough.

Front Snowblower
Yeah I considered the front mount for a while but I chose the rear blower specifically to have the loader on the front to help clear snow. I have no issue looking backward, at least not yet. Plus the price difference is substantial, it's too much for a front mount once all the necessary hardware is added. As far as a cab, I will get a soft shell cab that's easy to remove if I feel I need it. And I likely will. Hard cabs are too difficult to remove and the price is astronomical.


It's a lot to consider, for sure. I am hoping to get my order in this upcoming week, so I really appreciate all the comments, extremely helpful!

-J
Yep I looked at the 120 FEL for sure, I don't know where the reviews are that it's that bad... I can't seem to find many. I'll keep looking though. The only bad part seems to be the binding which looks to be easily avoidable, so while people say it's a weakness I can't seem to get a firm answer as to why. If they're saying the 120FEL is a weakness whether NSL or MSL, there's not a whole lot I can do about it if I buy a 2025R.

Make sure when you are looking at the MSL vs NSL you are looking at the right one for the tractor. The 2025 uses the 120 FEL and the reviews of the MSL have been pretty bad, but the one on the 2038 is the 220 FEL and its reviews have been rather good.

Really the 120 FEL on the 2025 is the 2025 biggest weakness.
I just yesterday carried pallets of wall block weighing in at about 720lbs with just my box blade as ballast and it felt plenty stable. Carrying that much weight I would normally throw a few bags of tube sand on top of the BB for extra weight but I just wanted to see how it handled it with the BB only..no additional weight. I don't want anyone to get the impression that I'm advocating safety shortcuts but just wanted to throw it out there that if you're in a pinch. Obviously if you're on the edge of being too light on ballast you need to carry your load VERY low and go VERY slow but it can be done.
Yep, I think I might look at the BB2060 as it seems to be heavier and more rigid, then as a bonus I could use it as a ballast. As it does hang back further (as MattL mentioned below) it might work. At the end of the day if I find it isn't enough I can always add weight and even go get a ballast box later.

The box blade hangs further back on the 3pt, increasing the "effective load". The further back the weight the heavier it is relative to the 3pt and as a counter weight to the FEL. Putting a few suitcase weights on the back of the box helps more than the same suitcase weights mounted at the 3pt arm pins.

Landscape rakes seem to always be available in my area on Craigslist. Might be a cheaper option than a Frontier. (Full disclosure: browsing CL is my equivalent of scrolling a "facebook feed")

With the PB and summit kit, being that it was made for a 1025R this will require some modifications to your application, but, recalling it's limited to drilling a few new holes. I'm very happy with my kit. Another positive is TTWT is working on a hose and switch kit to run one of the rear spools for a 3 function for the FEL. I purchased the 4 spool kit because the cost versus the two or three was minimal (relatively) and with a hydraulic top link, a Hydraulic dump MCS and the potential for a 3rd function for the FEL, it seemed to make sense, leaving an extra spool for a tilt or some other 3pt Hydraulic function.. if you build it, it'll come! PB for a log splitter would pretty slow with the 1025/2025 flow rate.
I think I'll be spending a lot of time on Kijiji / CL heh heh. There's definitely some deals to be had.

From what I read here and saw on TTWT there's nearly no difference in kits between the 2025R and 1025R except for the mounting bracket which needs to be a bit bigger. I can have one fabricated if I need to, but looks like one might be available. One thing is for sure, if I don't have to pay JD $3000+ for 3 spools I am not going to :)

How much snow do you usually get? That would alter my decision on a front vs rear blower. Having the loader on while having the ability to snow blow certainly has it's advantages. My optimal set-up would be a rear blower and front loader mounted plow. The advantage here is you could quickly clear your drive with smaller snows (like under 6") fast. You could even wing the snow to each side, then take the blower and blow the banking with 2 passes.

As far as cost of upgrading to a larger 2 series, yeah, it isn't cheap. Depending on your location it's easily a 10K upgrade just for the machine and loader. You're also getting into the world of emissions and re-gen... not sure if that's a big deal to you or not but there certainly is more to go wrong as the machine ages. So far my 2025R has done everything I've asked of it on my 10 acres. Sure, sometimes I wish it was stronger, but I also wished I owned a skidsteer and mini-ex, none of which I can justify to own.

The good part about a decision like this is I don't think you'll go wrong with whatever you choose by the sounds of your application.
I may very well look at a loader mounted plow since it's a long driveway and I am not certain I want to snowblow for 4" of snow. I'll check price. I'd just want to get some shoes on it so I don't put half my driveway in the snow bank.

I re-priced the 2032R over the weekend and I think I am just going to stick to the 2025R. If I find it is underpowered I can always trade or sell and keep most of the implements. I just can't justify the price tag increase when there will be many other things to spend that money on.
You guys aren't making this any easier lol. I appreciate the feedback, my two hangups are 1) that the MSL seems to be easier to work with forks and frankly anything else you want to keep level, and 2) safety. I may not be the only one operating this thing and the other person might make a mistake that causes a serious issue. The last thing I want is someone else to dump a bucket on the tractor or the ground because they're not paying enough attention to what they're doing. Yes, ideally the person operating should be very careful, aware, etc etc etc but in reality mistakes happen and MSL seems to do an awful lot to mitigate those mistakes. I have a small child as well and another being constructed and they have a tendency to run around and may not always be careful.

I watched TTWT's videos again just now, and I see it's not just binding but curling as well. I know I can't lower the MSL at full dump without first uncurling it a bit due to binding, but I can't see a situation where that's a problem.. Not sure where I would need to lower the FEL with the bucket at full dump 8 feet in the air. Also, as far as curl, yeah THAT I could see being more of an issue, when Tim curled the MSL upward it didn't curl as much and a light bulb went off in my head. Without full curl, the dirt / gravel in the FEL couldn't roll back as far so it might take more practice and maybe some shaking to get the bucket completely full... but again I am not sure this issue outweighs the value to me. Here's the other thing someone mentioned in the comments of one of the videos: That the fact that you can't curl AND lift the FEL at the same time with the JD controls is actually a downside to the NSL. At any one time you can either curl the bucket OR lift it. Not both. Whereas with other machines you can. So with MSL, you can ensure your bucket always stays level despite the JD's loader control limitations. Very interesting.

It's also important to note I care little about extra capability or lift capacity as I wasn't expecting it. If it has the same or close to the same as the NSL then it's a win for me. If I was really concerned about lift I'd get the 2032R :) Now if I HAD NSL already, then I would definitely not get MSL because it's another $6k+ for very little gain and a binding / curling limitation. But I have nothing, so for an extra few hundred it might be worth it (that few hundred is 700 it turns out...)

Hey @darkrabbit. I replied earlier in this thread, but I wanted to to offer some more thoughts while you consider your decision about the loader.

I recently went through this decision-making process with ordering my 1025R and ended up going with the NSL loader. I typically want the most updated, best version of anything I'm buying. I did as much research as I could. This included watching TTWT's full series on the MSL loaders versus the NSL loaders, reading the Deere literature on the new loader, and speaking to my dealer. Unfortunately, there's just not a lot of resources for reviews out there based on real-world usage yet. But, TTWT did an extensive breakdown in his video series and completed some very practical testing and comparisons.

I was willing to pay the extra money for the MSL loader if it added the advertised lifting capacity and provided additional functionality for my uses. It was concluded in TTWT's testing that for the 120R loader, the MSL version did not offer any appreciable difference in lifting capacity over the NSL version. Additionally, you lose what I consider to be a significant amount of the curling function and free manipulation of the loader and bucket with the MSL version. WIth the 220R MSL loader, you at least get the advertised increase in loader capacity when giving up other functionality. In my opinion, with the 120R, you're likely paying extra for an option that doesn't add capacity and can detract from your everyday use, unless you're main uses are for loading/unloading trucks/trailers and pallet work.

I will rarely, if ever, be using the loader for pallet work. The overwhelming use of my loader will be for dirt, stone, mulch, and various tasks with the bucket and grapple in my yard. If you think you'll be using the loader for loading/unloading trucks and other pallet work, then maybe it's worth it for you.

A benefit of the MSL is the safety aspect. It's going to be very difficult, if not impossible, to drop a load of material back on your tractor due to the self-leveling feature and limitations of the curling function. Conversely, I would personally rather learn to be a better loader operator and learn how to use every feature of the NSL loader to my favor instead of relying on the self-leveling function.

Either way, this is a personal decision that only you can make for yourself. I don't know Tim from TTWT personally, but I do make it a point to watch his videos and try to learn everything I can about the 1025R and how to use tractors in general. I trust his information because it's based on real-world use and practical, everyday projects. I don't care what the Deere advertisements say if they don't translate to real-world applications.

In the comments section of one of TTWT's loader comparison videos, someone asked a question about which loader Tim prefers. Here is the question and answer...

Question: After using both loaders with the auto level would you have any hesitation on buying the self leveling loader? Or would you keep the one that does not auto level ? Do you find the quarks to be too much with the auto leveling loader? Thanks for you opinion on this.

TTWT: For the 1025r, I would buy NSL. For 2038r, I’m not sure...the increased lift capacity would be helpful!


That simple answer went a long way for me. This answer is coming from a long-time Deere owner who is constantly using his tractors, and specifically the 120R loader, for practical and real-world projects. Tim's not even completely sold on the MSL loader for the 2038R based on his answer.

I'll stick with the NSL loader for my needs. I'm sure you'll make the right decision for your application.
@darkrabbit, For the rear blade/box/rake dilemma, some higher end rear blades come with optional side plates to keep gravel inside the edges as you pull a driveway. Then you can take the sides off for snow pulling or rearward pushing in snow season. Everythingattachments has really nice (but priced accordingly) stuff that is built for a lifetime (or sell it for at least 80% of what you paid later if it's been looked after) and the 5' models are heavy as many box blades. Or check MK Marten for Canadian exchange rate favorable deals on attachments (that might be black or yellow instead of green, but good local product but a bit lighter steel).

Definitely get the dealer to do the Power Beyond. It's a pain as TTWT's install video showed. The Summit kit hydraulic kit is the fun part with more instant gratification... Doing a hydraulic blade with top and tilt is a pinnacle in tractor luxury that's coming down to the smaller machines and perhaps upsetting some tractor manufacturers who used to keep these to larger frame sized machines to sell pricier machines. Saving my shekels for hydraulics someday for top and tilt and then maybe a small flail mower for ditches, lake edges, etc. Will it never end? Nope! ;-)
Thanks for this! I'll check them out. Canadian exchange is one thing, actually getting it here is something different what with the pandemic. I could pop across the border no problem 2 years ago. 6 months ago, the US was nowhere you wanted to go, and now Canada is nowhere you want to go heh heh. At least not Ontario. Either way, it means closed borders and I can't imagine shipping an implement is terribly cheap.

PB is definitely going on from the dealer. I wish it was a factory option as opposed to dealer installed, because it looks like I might have to pay them to do it? Sucks.

Some great options and opinions so far. I would skip the weights and have the tires filled. Also skip the ballast box and keep an implement attached. Quick hitch is the key and add the hydraulic options from the factory. You will need/want them later. Lights can be added very easy with an R model. I have some small LEDs zip tied in the rear that can change from white to flashing amber and plug right into the extra light plug the R model has and only cost a few dollars. As far as the size of tractor my thoughts are this. I also wanted a 2 series, however with the price difference on bigger machines we went went a 1025R and configured it with what we needed. I watched a neighbor later get a 2025R with a cab and for that price I have a 1025R with curtis cab and every attachment I need plus some I just wanted. An expensive tractor with no money left for attachments leads to frustration. If you go with the 2025 over the 2032 but have a few attachments to make the tractor more useful than thats a win in my book. Plus you will want or maybe need a trailer and then weight is a factor. Either way you will always regret not getting a bigger tractor. Even if you do get the bigger one.
Yep this is how I am leaning, sticking with tires filled and implements for weight, etc. Re the tractor, I have to strike that balance between what I need and what I can afford right now :) It may take me a few more loads to do what I want with the 2025R vs the 2032R but that just means I get to drive more heh heh. Plus like you said the price difference is a lot of attachments.

2025R owner here - If you plan on doing a moderate amount of dirt work then I'd go NSL as I can't imagine having less curl than I have now (I want more than I have!). Power Beyond for sure as it makes your tractor flexible and easy to add other stuff (backhoe?) in the future if you want. Auto throttle is one of the things I like way more than I thought - it is very useful. R3's are awesome but I wouldn't get them filled if you can ballast in another method AND are going to be mowing. With loader/backhoe removed I just mowed with R3's and it didn't do anything to the yard my regular rider doesn't do. I have the 3rdscv and the av120F grapple which have already paid for themselves..unlike most the pallet forks I ended up getting real cheap have been used once. It really depends on your situation and what you will be doing with your tractor as to what ends up being valuable. I have about 3.5 acres with a LOT of trees (that I have trimmed over head height!) and I use the grapple all the time and will use it extensively once a year when I do my annual trimming. Only maybe regret is the mower deck...I've used it once and it works great but the RIO (which will be going away real quick) and the rops (even when folded) are frustrating. The tractor is VERY nimble and even when turning sharp the R3's are real gentle on the turf as long as when at full lock you go slow and don't try and force the front end to turn faster than it wants. The ROPS are by far the most frustrating thing on the tractor but as I get trees trimmed better I will adjust...it's just frustrating. I didn't read all the posts so not sure if you plan on using it to mow but if you do I'd skip the wheel ballast and use a ballast box/etc... as that is the most flexible solution.
Thanks for the feedback! Yeah I feel auto throttle might be good. I am not doing any mowing, so I am not too concerned about rear weight, and I don't have a lot of trees really, so I should be okay without the grapple and just forks for the time being. There's a marshy area with some dead trees in the back that I want to clean up, but I can probably swing it with the forks. That being said the AV20F grapple is interesting, doesn't appear too expensive, and could be in my future.
I think I just need to learn a little more about what it does. JD documentation on it is non-existent. But once again TTWT has a video on it :)

So I love the auto-throttle on the 2038R, however not sure I would like the way it is implemented on the 2025 or 1025 as much because on those you can not disable it. From a safety standpoint being able to disable it is important to me. I disable it on my 2038 whenever I am in close quarters or near a ledge so that the speed of the tractor is easier and more predicatable to control.

NOTE: never used the mechanical auto throttle on the lower models so not sure how it feels just know you can not disable it like you can on the larger 2 series.
Also if MSL is be considered because you are unsure of small children running too close, that is not the safety feature. So many other dangers of a small child running around a tractor that are not resolved by an MSL.
Yes of course. That is a very small concern. I am thinking more of accidental dumping of loads onto the hood, onto the ground, etc.

On TTWT I learned in Australia you can't even buy a tractor without MSL anymore. Didn't know that. Safety reasons apparently.

-J
It was posted on a few comment threads, maybe the meaning was that it was just more difficult... who knows. Yeah maybe I'll take a swing by the dealer and see if I can take one out.

-J
Ask the dealer to let you play with a tractor with an NSL at their lot...i'll bet you'll see keeping stuff level isn't as intimidating as you might think. FYI I can raise/lower and dump/curl at the same time. There is definitely a sweet spot and it's not near as obvious as a kubota but it is definitely possible so not sure where you heard that you can't but that's incorrect. But to be clear, it DOES require concentration and is nowhere as near as easy as a kubota.
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Yeah I actually do want to use the forks with some pallets and stack things. Just need to get a shelf similar to the one below :)

This may be a little off topic, but a much bigger pole barn or covered storage area than you have. With pallet forks, you can palletize your implements and store them vertically.
View attachment 785449
Front and rear LED lights, under $75 with wire!
Nice shelf with pallets as well :) Where did you get the lights?

One thing I'll add regarding the Box Blade is that not only is it a good ballast option for many things you may want to lift with the FEL, but it has a hidden feature in that its a great addition as a secondary parking brake. I've had x700 series tractors in the past and while parking on a slight hill with a trailer in tow it has caused some issues with the parking brake slipping. I just noticed the same thing with my 2025R this weekend. I was parked on a slight hill with the FEL elevated while I was moving long boards on my pallet fork to a storage rack and when I shut off the tractor, I felt it slip slightly.

I had the box blade on and dropped it to the ground and voila....instant secondary parking brake.... I immediately blocked my wheels as I usually do whenever leaving the seat, but that split second of movement while preparing to leave the seat gave me a bit of a start.
Ha I never thought of that. It would make one helluva brake.

So I actually placed the order! Super excited!

2025R
  • 120R Loader w/MSL
  • iMatch Quick Hitch w/ several bushings
  • VersaTurf tires
  • Rear tires filled with Rim Guard
  • Auto Throttle
  • Block Heater
  • Coolant Heater
  • Hitch Coupling
  • Power Beyond

Attachments:
  • Frontier AP10F 42" pallet forks
  • Frontier SS2036B Broadcast Spreader w/Agitator
  • Frontier RT3049 Rotary Tiller
  • Horst SB100060 60" Snow Blade
  • Frontier BB2060 Standard Duty Box Blade

Omitted:

- SB1154 Snowblower - I found a used one, like new, for $1200 less. No brainer.

It's going to take a while to get it apparently but that's fine, we're not moving until end of July. I should have it by then or August, just in time for September lawn seeding.

Thanks for all the help everyone, no way I would have made an informed decision without this forum.

-J
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