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So I love the auto-throttle on the 2038R, however not sure I would like the way it is implemented on the 2025 or 1025 as much because on those you can not disable it. From a safety standpoint being able to disable it is important to me. I disable it on my 2038 whenever I am in close quarters or near a ledge so that the speed of the tractor is easier and more predicatable to control.

NOTE: never used the mechanical auto throttle on the lower models so not sure how it feels just know you can not disable it like you can on the larger 2 series.
 

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So I love the auto-throttle on the 2038R, however not sure I would like the way it is implemented on the 2025 or 1025 as much because on those you can not disable it. From a safety standpoint being able to disable it is important to me. I disable it on my 2038 whenever I am in close quarters or near a ledge so that the speed of the tractor is easier and more predicatable to control.

NOTE: never used the mechanical auto throttle on the lower models so not sure how it feels just know you can not disable it like you can on the larger 2 series.
I had the same concern when I purchased but it is a very gentle implementation and doesn't interfere with the ability to "creep" around real slow (especially if you are in low range which you should be).
 
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Ask the dealer to let you play with a tractor with an NSL at their lot...i'll bet you'll see keeping stuff level isn't as intimidating as you might think. FYI I can raise/lower and dump/curl at the same time. There is definitely a sweet spot and it's not near as obvious as a kubota but it is definitely possible so not sure where you heard that you can't but that's incorrect. But to be clear, it DOES require concentration and is nowhere as near as easy as a kubota.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
So I love the auto-throttle on the 2038R, however not sure I would like the way it is implemented on the 2025 or 1025 as much because on those you can not disable it. From a safety standpoint being able to disable it is important to me. I disable it on my 2038 whenever I am in close quarters or near a ledge so that the speed of the tractor is easier and more predicatable to control.

NOTE: never used the mechanical auto throttle on the lower models so not sure how it feels just know you can not disable it like you can on the larger 2 series.
I think I just need to learn a little more about what it does. JD documentation on it is non-existent. But once again TTWT has a video on it :)

Also if MSL is be considered because you are unsure of small children running too close, that is not the safety feature. So many other dangers of a small child running around a tractor that are not resolved by an MSL.
Yes of course. That is a very small concern. I am thinking more of accidental dumping of loads onto the hood, onto the ground, etc.

On TTWT I learned in Australia you can't even buy a tractor without MSL anymore. Didn't know that. Safety reasons apparently.

-J
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Ask the dealer to let you play with a tractor with an NSL at their lot...i'll bet you'll see keeping stuff level isn't as intimidating as you might think. FYI I can raise/lower and dump/curl at the same time. There is definitely a sweet spot and it's not near as obvious as a kubota but it is definitely possible so not sure where you heard that you can't but that's incorrect. But to be clear, it DOES require concentration and is nowhere as near as easy as a kubota.
It was posted on a few comment threads, maybe the meaning was that it was just more difficult... who knows. Yeah maybe I'll take a swing by the dealer and see if I can take one out.

-J
 

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I have the MSL on my 2025R.
I had a NSL on the 1025R and also an NSL on 2038R, 3033R, 3039R. I will take the MSL on these smaller tractors any day over an NSL. The smaller tractors to me have never seemed to have the flow/power to maintain level and lift all at the same time and in particular the 120 NSL that was on the 1R was jerky jumpy SOB. That was the main reason I wanted a MSL when I bought the 2025R, I knew the 120 NSL was not a smooth loader or maybe its the flow rate on the smaller tractors that causes that jerky operation. I have moved several buckets full of material, rock and dirt with my 2025R. It may not be able to heap it on quite how a NSL can with added curl, but the MSL still beats the crap out of a shovel and a wheel barrow any day. lol Plus when using my forks to load and unload stuff out of the truck, I am really happy I bought the MSL loader.
I don't really mind that my 5115Ms and 4066R machines are NSL, they have the power or flow needed to operate the loader with multiple functions at once nice and smoothly, so keeping it level manually has never been an issue with the larger machines, like it is on the smaller subcompact tractors. I will gladly accept the drawbacks of a MSL to gain the smoother operation of mechanical assist and self leveling feature.
 

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So I love the auto-throttle on the 2038R, however not sure I would like the way it is implemented on the 2025 or 1025 as much because on those you can not disable it. From a safety standpoint being able to disable it is important to me. I disable it on my 2038 whenever I am in close quarters or near a ledge so that the speed of the tractor is easier and more predicatable to control.

NOTE: never used the mechanical auto throttle on the lower models so not sure how it feels just know you can not disable it like you can on the larger 2 series.
It can be overridden with the hand throttle. But I think what your after would require disabling it completely.

Which actually can be done, and it is real simple and easy to disable. Granted not as easy as tapping the on/off button on the electronic versions found on larger machines, but if you have maybe 10-20 seconds to reach under the right side, towards the front of the tractor and pull a pin, you can disable the mechanical auto throttle on a 2025R.
 

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One thing for sure, with the standard (nsl) loader you can do more than one function at the same time. You can lift and curl at the same time. I had a Kubota before my JD and it was by far easier on the Kubota, the JD just requires more of a touch. I had the Kubota for 10 years and my JD for 2 years and it’s a non issue to me. Keeping the forks level? Same thing, it’s just not an issue for me.
 

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Hey all, after MANY years of wanting a property where I could have a tractor (yes, this was a life goal :) ) we're finally building a house on a 5 acre field and I have a "need" for one. There are going to be a lot of jobs on the property, including seeding a lawn, dealing with fallen trees, moving top soil and crushed rock, maintaining a 400ft gravel driveway, planting a garden (well tilling for one anyway), moving smoker and fire wood, landscaping (putting in stone, gardens, other things I'd like to do myself), removing snow from aforementioned driveway, etc. Basically anything that needs to be moved, placed, maintained. It's a long lot, over 1000ft deep, so I won't be moving things around easily with just a wheelbarrow and a shovel.

I am not buying it to mow however. A mower deck costs the same as a 3 series zero turn, and a zero turn will apparently do a much better job, much faster, and will be easier to deal with. Just doesn't make sense for me.

I also don't feel I need a backhoe. Let me rephrase, I don't feel I need a backhoe for $9000 CDN. That is likely a lot of mini excavator rentals (which is apparently better anyway), and everything I need trenched is already trenched. I may be building a shed with a power run, or a water line out to a garden, but I can do that with a rental. And 1/3 of that $9000 will buy me a nice trailer. The dealer actually told me not to get it because it's too expensive. I was surprised by that, but he's not wrong.

I decided to go with a 2025R for several reasons: Weight, ground clearance, tire size, price, and driving position. Comparing with the 1025R I am just happier with it. The controls sit higher up in the 2025R which to me gives it a more engaging feel. The tire size is much larger which will no doubt make for better traction, and add weight when filled. Not a huge difference in ground clearance but not insignificant either. Finally, the price difference between the two is a few grand. For me, this makes it a no brainer.

I considered a 2032R but the price difference is huge. It also may be a lot more than I need. The added loader capacity might be nice but at what cost. I am still considering it though.

When building the tractor, I found all of the possible options on the tractor a bit confusing on the web site, and I didn't know what some were. I felt like I could be missing things. For example, I selected wheel weights but didn't add the mounting hardware because, in my mind, why would you not include the hardware you need to mount the weights when you sell the weights?? But this is the high level sheet I put together for what I mostly know from my enormous number of searches on this forum.


TractorCommentsOption Code
2025RThis part is important
iMatch Quick Hitch Cat 1Adjustable top hook (because adjustable seems like a good idea)LVB25976
Factory Installed Loader with Bucket120R w/MSL
1701​
Tires FilledFill rear tires w/liquid?
Rear Wheel Weight, 60 lb (27.2 kg)Weight!BM17965
Attaching Hardware for Rear Wheel Weight, 60 lbObviouslyBM17987
Ballast BoxFilled with concreteBW15073
3rd SCV or MidBig question here, do I need more hydro??
Premium LED Work Light KitI could see this being useful and I like lightBLV10673
Engine Coolant Heater KitBecause CanadaBLV10640
Engine Block Heater AdapterBecause CanadaAM134805
Auto-Throttle KitDo I want this?BLV10784
3-Point Hitch Tractor Receiver HitchLikely useful for a trailer…LP25001
Attachments
Loader ForksAP10F vs 11F? 42" seems like a good idea
TillerFor tilling. This one has gears, 6 tines, etc. Can't buy King Kutter in Canada, going with Frontier I guessRT3049
SnowblowerNot plowing, I live in the snow beltSB1154
SpreaderSS20B iMatch w/agitator. This is an option... but I feel it will be very useful. Unless there's another, cheaper option for spreading seed, fertilizer, and other things across 2 acres of grass?SS2067B
Box BladeWill be very handy for the driveway, land, garden?BB5060

I am trying to roll as much into the 0% finance as possible so I am adding whatever I can now that's reasonable. I am not looking to light money on fire, but if it makes sense I'd do it.

I have sent this to the dealer to get a quote, and to review, but I have some questions:

1) Is there anything I am missing or given my use case I might want? There's so many little options on the web site I feel I might miss something.

2) I considered the 2032R... as I am not mowing, it's an option. But my god is it expensive! And might be more than I really need. Any thoughts on this? Is this a "no you dont need anything like that for 5 acres" or "yeah considering what you're planning to do and without mowing, if you can swing it, do it".

3) Do I need more hydraulics? The 3rd SCV option is there but it's almost $1000. What do people use it for? If I got a grapple, depending on price, honestly I'd probably just get an electric one. How hard are they to install on your own afterwards?

4) What is the consensus on the auto throttle kit? Any downsides?

Anyway, I am really excited to get this tractor, expected delivery is allegedly around July but who knows. We take possession of the house July 20th and I won't realistically need this until Sept. which is when I want to seed some of the lawn. If I get it early I will probably use it to drive around my driveway, just because :) I'll probably have to clean up builder mess as well.

-J
I have a 2025R. I never intended to mow with it so I think you made the correct decision. I ordered it with front 3rd function and auto throttle (both dealer installed). I like the auto throttle. I cannot turn it off but I can still use manual throttle for loader operation. 3rd function switch is integrated in the loader control handle. Knowing what I know now I would have ordered rear SCV also. My af10 has 42 inch forks. I have a lot of stuff on pallets and I think 36 inch would be too short. I bought the ballast box with extension. I prefer the Heavy Hitch weight bracket I bought later. It comes with a 2x2 receiver hitch.
 

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Hey all, after MANY years of wanting a property where I could have a tractor (yes, this was a life goal :) ) we're finally building a house on a 5 acre field and I have a "need" for one. There are going to be a lot of jobs on the property, including seeding a lawn, dealing with fallen trees, moving top soil and crushed rock, maintaining a 400ft gravel driveway, planting a garden (well tilling for one anyway), moving smoker and fire wood, landscaping (putting in stone, gardens, other things I'd like to do myself), removing snow from aforementioned driveway, etc. Basically anything that needs to be moved, placed, maintained. It's a long lot, over 1000ft deep, so I won't be moving things around easily with just a wheelbarrow and a shovel.

I am not buying it to mow however. A mower deck costs the same as a 3 series zero turn, and a zero turn will apparently do a much better job, much faster, and will be easier to deal with. Just doesn't make sense for me.

I also don't feel I need a backhoe. Let me rephrase, I don't feel I need a backhoe for $9000 CDN. That is likely a lot of mini excavator rentals (which is apparently better anyway), and everything I need trenched is already trenched. I may be building a shed with a power run, or a water line out to a garden, but I can do that with a rental. And 1/3 of that $9000 will buy me a nice trailer. The dealer actually told me not to get it because it's too expensive. I was surprised by that, but he's not wrong.

I decided to go with a 2025R for several reasons: Weight, ground clearance, tire size, price, and driving position. Comparing with the 1025R I am just happier with it. The controls sit higher up in the 2025R which to me gives it a more engaging feel. The tire size is much larger which will no doubt make for better traction, and add weight when filled. Not a huge difference in ground clearance but not insignificant either. Finally, the price difference between the two is a few grand. For me, this makes it a no brainer.

I considered a 2032R but the price difference is huge. It also may be a lot more than I need. The added loader capacity might be nice but at what cost. I am still considering it though.

When building the tractor, I found all of the possible options on the tractor a bit confusing on the web site, and I didn't know what some were. I felt like I could be missing things. For example, I selected wheel weights but didn't add the mounting hardware because, in my mind, why would you not include the hardware you need to mount the weights when you sell the weights?? But this is the high level sheet I put together for what I mostly know from my enormous number of searches on this forum.


TractorCommentsOption Code
2025RThis part is important
iMatch Quick Hitch Cat 1Adjustable top hook (because adjustable seems like a good idea)LVB25976
Factory Installed Loader with Bucket120R w/MSL
1701​
Tires FilledFill rear tires w/liquid?
Rear Wheel Weight, 60 lb (27.2 kg)Weight!BM17965
Attaching Hardware for Rear Wheel Weight, 60 lbObviouslyBM17987
Ballast BoxFilled with concreteBW15073
3rd SCV or MidBig question here, do I need more hydro??
Premium LED Work Light KitI could see this being useful and I like lightBLV10673
Engine Coolant Heater KitBecause CanadaBLV10640
Engine Block Heater AdapterBecause CanadaAM134805
Auto-Throttle KitDo I want this?BLV10784
3-Point Hitch Tractor Receiver HitchLikely useful for a trailer…LP25001
Attachments
Loader ForksAP10F vs 11F? 42" seems like a good idea
TillerFor tilling. This one has gears, 6 tines, etc. Can't buy King Kutter in Canada, going with Frontier I guessRT3049
SnowblowerNot plowing, I live in the snow beltSB1154
SpreaderSS20B iMatch w/agitator. This is an option... but I feel it will be very useful. Unless there's another, cheaper option for spreading seed, fertilizer, and other things across 2 acres of grass?SS2067B
Box BladeWill be very handy for the driveway, land, garden?BB5060

I am trying to roll as much into the 0% finance as possible so I am adding whatever I can now that's reasonable. I am not looking to light money on fire, but if it makes sense I'd do it.

I have sent this to the dealer to get a quote, and to review, but I have some questions:

1) Is there anything I am missing or given my use case I might want? There's so many little options on the web site I feel I might miss something.

2) I considered the 2032R... as I am not mowing, it's an option. But my god is it expensive! And might be more than I really need. Any thoughts on this? Is this a "no you dont need anything like that for 5 acres" or "yeah considering what you're planning to do and without mowing, if you can swing it, do it".

3) Do I need more hydraulics? The 3rd SCV option is there but it's almost $1000. What do people use it for? If I got a grapple, depending on price, honestly I'd probably just get an electric one. How hard are they to install on your own afterwards?

4) What is the consensus on the auto throttle kit? Any downsides?

Anyway, I am really excited to get this tractor, expected delivery is allegedly around July but who knows. We take possession of the house July 20th and I won't realistically need this until Sept. which is when I want to seed some of the lawn. If I get it early I will probably use it to drive around my driveway, just because :) I'll probably have to clean up builder mess as well.

-J
This may be a little off topic, but a much bigger pole barn or covered storage area than you have. With pallet forks, you can palletize your implements and store them vertically.
 

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Thanks for all the replies everyone, this is awesome, and extremely helpful. Lots of great comments. I will need to redo my build sheet :)

2025R vs 2032R
This is still a consideration, especially after reading these posts :) The price for me is so high though, that I don't know whether I want to do it. I would like the extra power, and the extra loader capacity... some great points made on the additional loss of power with filled tires, etc. I have a relatively flat yard though. I also like the controls better on the 2032R. I don't know, it seems like a better tractor but the price difference... yikes. I am going to work out the final difference in price with all options, and decide from there.

Lighting
Thanks for all the feedback on this, I think I am going to pull the lighting out of the options list and get aftermarket. I don't want to pay more for LED's than I have to.

Land Plane / Box Blade / Rear Blade
I had considered a land plane but they are a bit pricey, and it seems like a box blade can do the same thing? Maybe not AS good, but close? Plus it has a bit more capability especially when it comes to repairing potholes. Not sure, I might have to do more research on it and see whether I can justify the cost for both...

There seems to be a lot of crossover in capability between box blade, land plane, rear blade, etc. It's certainly challenging to decide.

There's also the landscape rake which might be useful for rocks / debris / etc.

I am sure, without trying very hard, I could have 15 implements in my garage very quickly :)

Ballast / Box
I never even considered using the box blade for ballast, didn't think it was heavy enough. A search shows the BB5060 box blade I tentatively chose is only ~350lbs, which is 400lbs short of the rear hitch weight requirement for a fully loaded 120R FEL. Unless I am missing something? Maybe I need to find a heavier box blade :)

The reason I went with filled tires, weights, AND ballast box is because I read the more weight the better / more stable when the loader is full. I should do the math on the ballast and figure it out. If I can avoid wheel weights, great, then use the box blade, even better. Then if I need more for whatever reason, add weight later.

NSL vs MSL Loader
I saw the TTWT video on it and while the MSL does have the odd binding issue it doesn't seem to be too bad, and doesn't seem to outweigh the value of having the loader self level. When I was watching the video, the maneuvers which caused the binding are avoidable. I am thinking of using it for pallets and unloading / loading onto a vehicle or trailer once in a while. Not a lot, but some. And if it will make the process easier I figure why not. Plus when lifting and carrying gravel, soil, etc it might be useful. I am going to rewatch the video though, and see if I am still okay with it. I also don't know if the MSL costs more, Deere's site doesn't seem to indicate this.

Hydraulics
I am heavily leaning on adding a Power Beyond kit (which is relatively inexpensive) so I can add the Summit hydraulic rear remote. Seems the 3rd SCV is ~$950CDN for 1 spool. Meanwhile I can get PB and the summit kit which gives 2-4 spools and an electric control for about the same price. I do like that. Unless I am missing something, this seems to be the way to go. I don't plan on splitting wood with it, I had read it wasn't strong enough.

Front Snowblower
Yeah I considered the front mount for a while but I chose the rear blower specifically to have the loader on the front to help clear snow. I have no issue looking backward, at least not yet. Plus the price difference is substantial, it's too much for a front mount once all the necessary hardware is added. As far as a cab, I will get a soft shell cab that's easy to remove if I feel I need it. And I likely will. Hard cabs are too difficult to remove and the price is astronomical.


It's a lot to consider, for sure. I am hoping to get my order in this upcoming week, so I really appreciate all the comments, extremely helpful!

-J
One thing I'll add regarding the Box Blade is that not only is it a good ballast option for many things you may want to lift with the FEL, but it has a hidden feature in that its a great addition as a secondary parking brake. I've had x700 series tractors in the past and while parking on a slight hill with a trailer in tow it has caused some issues with the parking brake slipping. I just noticed the same thing with my 2025R this weekend. I was parked on a slight hill with the FEL elevated while I was moving long boards on my pallet fork to a storage rack and when I shut off the tractor, I felt it slip slightly.

I had the box blade on and dropped it to the ground and voila....instant secondary parking brake.... I immediately blocked my wheels as I usually do whenever leaving the seat, but that split second of movement while preparing to leave the seat gave me a bit of a start.
 
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
This may be a little off topic, but a much bigger pole barn or covered storage area than you have. With pallet forks, you can palletize your implements and store them vertically.
Yeah I actually do want to use the forks with some pallets and stack things. Just need to get a shelf similar to the one below :)

View attachment 785449
Front and rear LED lights, under $75 with wire!
Nice shelf with pallets as well :) Where did you get the lights?

One thing I'll add regarding the Box Blade is that not only is it a good ballast option for many things you may want to lift with the FEL, but it has a hidden feature in that its a great addition as a secondary parking brake. I've had x700 series tractors in the past and while parking on a slight hill with a trailer in tow it has caused some issues with the parking brake slipping. I just noticed the same thing with my 2025R this weekend. I was parked on a slight hill with the FEL elevated while I was moving long boards on my pallet fork to a storage rack and when I shut off the tractor, I felt it slip slightly.

I had the box blade on and dropped it to the ground and voila....instant secondary parking brake.... I immediately blocked my wheels as I usually do whenever leaving the seat, but that split second of movement while preparing to leave the seat gave me a bit of a start.
Ha I never thought of that. It would make one helluva brake.

So I actually placed the order! Super excited!

2025R
  • 120R Loader w/MSL
  • iMatch Quick Hitch w/ several bushings
  • VersaTurf tires
  • Rear tires filled with Rim Guard
  • Auto Throttle
  • Block Heater
  • Coolant Heater
  • Hitch Coupling
  • Power Beyond

Attachments:
  • Frontier AP10F 42" pallet forks
  • Frontier SS2036B Broadcast Spreader w/Agitator
  • Frontier RT3049 Rotary Tiller
  • Horst SB100060 60" Snow Blade
  • Frontier BB2060 Standard Duty Box Blade

Omitted:

- SB1154 Snowblower - I found a used one, like new, for $1200 less. No brainer.

It's going to take a while to get it apparently but that's fine, we're not moving until end of July. I should have it by then or August, just in time for September lawn seeding.

Thanks for all the help everyone, no way I would have made an informed decision without this forum.

-J
 

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Congrats, looks like a great spec on the tractor and nice list of attachment.
The 2025R is a great machine.
Your going have a fun time / I mean hard work ahead with you new tractor. Lol
 
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'21 2025R TLB, 60" MMM; Load & Go; BB2048L; iMatch, AP10F; Ohio Steel lawn roller; Core Aerator
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I think the 2025R is a great choice. I got mine in April as we were starting construction on our new home on 2.85 acres and have 220 hours on it. It's been awesome!

You seem to have thought everything through very well. For my 2 cents, you can't beat the versatility of a box blade. Using the box blade to carry and move material and and the FEL to back blade, you'll be able to keep your drive nice and smooth.
 
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