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Discussion Starter #1
On a brand new bucket. What kind of a job is it to fix? I don't see how it attaches.

 

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You should be able to bang it right off with a hammer. Bang a new one on and peen in the dimples.

BTW, I'd say, pretty impressive or faulty tooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
You should be able to bang it right off with a hammer. Bang a new one on and peen in the dipples.

BTW, I'd say, pretty impressive or faulty tooth.
I was digging out a root and BANG! I got ahold of an old steel pipe with the tip of the one tooth, I thought it was part of the root so I pulled on it pretty good. Where I am digging is where they dumped a lot of scrap years ago when they built a housing development.

Thanks Gizmo, I'm taking it off now.
 

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On the teeth for my toothbar, there are metal pins with rubber around them that hold the tooth onto the shank. I would guess it is the same for your bucket. You just need to locate the pins and hammer them out with a punch.
 

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Yup, those are "peened" or "crimp on's" as opposed to the pined ones Andy mentioned.
I found heating the tabs made it easier to remove the old one and install the new ones.



485.jpg

On the mini-ex I used frequently (was my wifes cousin's), they (the operators) where still always loosing teeth frequently and not replacing them-and then wore down the shanks so much new teeth wouldn't stay on at all. I ended up replacing the cutting edge and all the shanks/teeth with the pin-on style and they never lost a tooth again.
 
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On the teeth for my toothbar, there are metal pins with rubber around them that hold the tooth onto the shank. I would guess it is the same for your bucket. You just need to locate the pins and hammer them out with a punch.
Most of these small backhoes do not have the drive-in pins to hold the teeth onto the shanks (at least the ones I've changed). You just align a punch with the dimple and give it a whack (both sides).
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, it's a pengo tuf-go tooth that doesn't have a pin. I don't see how hitting it with a hammer is gonna work. Looks like I need to pry out the peen'd in area?
 

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Yes, pry out the peened in area to remove the tooth from the shank-the dimple Giz refereed to is actually on the shank. When you get the new tooth (get and keep a spare or two also) you peen the tab into the dimple-a punch or dull chisel helps...its thick metal and tough to do, use heat (like a propane or acetyliene torch) if you have it to make the job easier.

I's ask the dealer for at least one free, but buy more to have on hand. Digging without the tooth will wear the soft/cast shank quickly and they or not easy to replace. BTDT, GTTS.
 

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Got it. Used a pry bar against the bucket to pry it off. Those things are made to stay on! How much do they cost?

 

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ToddM,
The last ones I bought were very reasonable. Do yourself a favor and buy two. The new ones will probably have a small circular spot on them where you need to peen them.
And yes the new one will probably be rather loose but with all the dirt that will get around it and pressure against it, it will setup like a rock.
 

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I went 17 years before I lost a tooth on my BH on the 650. One day a guy asked me if I had ever lost a tooth, I said no. The next day I lost one and never found it.
I still say the teeth on the smaller JD backhoes are too far apart, too much stress on just one tooth and almost impossible to clean the bottom of a ditch.
I changed that.

IMG_1225_1.jpg IMG_1227_1.jpg
 
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I'm glad you guys helped Todd get it worked out, and I learned something. :lol:
When I was buying the parts for my toothbar I saw the teeth that get peened over (they had a different name). I didn't know what the difference was, but now I'm glad I got the pinned teeth.
 

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I had a tooth on my 8B get loose. I saw that they were peened on and tried to re-peen it on better. I was able to do it but it came loose again. I then tried peening it again and it started to tear the tooth around the holes. Then I lost the tooth all together. I had by that time bought 4 new ones from GreenFarmParts Green Farm Parts: John Deere Parts Online at Discount Prices and at the time had a big enough order that it didn't cost me for shipping.

I also noticed that the shanks on the 18" bucket for the 8B actually have complete holes through them as well. So this time I actually put a bolt through it and I have not had a problem with it again. The bolt has been bent but it is holding well.

I appreciate Kenny's point about heating the metal first to peen it or to get it off. It is also hard to peen them when they are an inside tooth. My 18" bucket has 4 on it.

Todd, I'm impressed that the BH could break the tooth. That shows the 485 BH has some pretty good power of course if it was all concentrated on that one tooth and you were using the curl then I can see that there would be a lot of force right there.

I agree with what everyone has said about having several of these on hand so that you do not have to wait for them if you are in the middle of a digging project. I also like what has been said about the fact that you do not want to use the shank to dig with. I thought that that would be the case.

Glad to hear you are back up and running.
 

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All good advise so far, I've lost a few on my 448 and have found a cutting wheel on a grinder is fast for removing them. Just be sure not to cut into the shank. Don't try to pry with the teeth if you can avoid it. I snap several shanks when I first bought my 448. The 485/448 are pretty powerful for their size.

When installing new I heat the tooth and then use a large punch to peen it over. I always stock at least 2 spares.

Matt
 

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Gwhunter,
You actually broke a shank off?
 

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Gwhunter,
You actually broke a shank off?
Two actually, it was about three hours after dealer delivered it on an oak stump. They snapped right in half, I suspect they were defective. The dealer replaced them and then I pealed the weld off on the next digging evolution.
At that point I brought the bucket and shanks in to work (in power generation) and had one of the welders install the shank. I've yet to have another issue. I believe the dealer failed to preheat the shanks before welding them on.

Matt
 

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I have a very difficult time with the pounding and bending in to hold those tips.

I just ordered 9 sets of J-200 series Cat teeth with the adapters, a pin goes in side ways and a retaining ring holds the pin in place.

119-3205 adapters $10.00 each , 1u3209 tiger teeth $8.00 each and pins and retainer washers set $3 each.

Just sayin you do not have to stay with those type of teeth.

there is the next size up in the J-250 but the costs do go up sharply after the J-200.

Caterpillar119-3205Adapter.jpg Caterpillar1U3202WTTwinTigerTooth.jpg CaterpillarPin9W7112.jpg Caterpillar8E6209Washer.jpg
1252390134.jpg

I pasted in an extra pic to show where the lock washer goes.
 
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