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I second using the JD brand of spray paint! It might be a little more expensive, but the results are well worth it!:)
 

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I haven't tried Krylon, but I've used Valspar, Rustoleum, and JD rattle cans. JD is $$ more but covers & looks better, MAJOR problems with Valspar nozzles...maybe just the lot?...dripping, used a LOT of Rustoleum, requires additional coats, but comes out OK.

Clear coat: You MUST wait a MINIMUM of 5 days after top coating to apply a/several clear coat(s). I painted my pedestal on my 317 last spring. Prepped a few low spots with body filler, primed & painted with Rustoleum. Sanded, repainted..,.low spots in paint. Sanded, painted, wet sanded, still a few low spots. Continued until low spots were gone. A final 1500 grit wet sand and clear...INSTANT wrinkle! Sand, paint, sand paint, clear coat...friggin' wrinkles! Soooo, I sand, paint...again, about 3 or 4 times...and waited 6 or 7 days. A LIGHT clear coat and no wrinkles. A heavier clear coat...again after 6 or 7 days...and no wrinkles! I'm not a person with a lot of patience, but unless you want to do it over, and over, and etc, you MUST wait before applying clear!

A "test" that I did was to prime & paint a piece of sheet metal I had hanging around. When I applied my last green to my pedestal, I also painted the "scrap/test." 3 or 4 days later, I laid a piece of cardboard over the test, leaving about 2" exposed, and applied clear...,WRINKLES! A day or 2 later, I moved the cardboard back to expose an additional 2" and applied clear...again it wrinkled, but only in a few places. Another 2 days I pulled the cardboard back 2" and applied clear...NO wrinkles! Maybe 3 days later I "cleared" my pedestal with good results (NO wrinkles!). BTW, I had Rustoleum, Valspar, and JD paint on my "test"...ALL with the same results! It's all about proper drying! Bob
 
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I haven't tried Krylon, but I've used Valspar, Rustoleum, and JD rattle cans. JD is $$ more but covers & looks better, MAJOR problems with Valspar nozzles...maybe just the lot?...dripping, used a LOT of Rustoleum, requires additional coats, but comes out OK.

Clear coat: You MUST wait a MINIMUM of 5 days after top coating to apply a/several clear coat(s). I painted my pedestal on my 317 last spring. Prepped a few low spots with body filler, primed & painted with Rustoleum. Sanded, repainted..,.low spots in paint. Sanded, painted, wet sanded, still a few low spots. Continued until low spots were gone. A final 1500 grit wet sand and clear...INSTANT wrinkle! Sand, paint, sand paint, clear coat...friggin' wrinkles! Soooo, I sand, paint...again, about 3 or 4 times...and waited 6 or 7 days. A LIGHT clear coat and no wrinkles. A heavier clear coat...again after 6 or 7 days...and no wrinkles! I'm not a person with a lot of patience, but unless you want to do it over, and over, and etc, you MUST wait before applying clear!

A "test" that I did was to prime & paint a piece of sheet metal I had hanging around. When I applied my last green to my pedestal, I also painted the "scrap/test." 3 or 4 days later, I laid a piece of cardboard over the test, leaving about 2" exposed, and applied clear...,WRINKLES! A day or 2 later, I moved the cardboard back to expose an additional 2" and applied clear...again it wrinkled, but only in a few places. Another 2 days I pulled the cardboard back 2" and applied clear...NO wrinkles! Maybe 3 days later I "cleared" my pedestal with good results (NO wrinkles!). BTW, I had Rustoleum, Valspar, and JD paint on my "test"...ALL with the same results! It's all about proper drying! Bob
I'm not sure about this, but rattle can paint is pretty much limited in what you can do as far as clear coats, hardeners etc. I once used Deer's Yellow & when it was dry to the touch I applied a second coat & it wrinkled like crazy. Then I took the time to read the can & it said to wait a full 24-48 hours before recoat, or recoat within something like ten minutes of the first coat to avoid problems.

Personally, I will spend the money on a gallon of JD paint & use my HVLP spray gun when doing a complete tractor. A Gallon might cost you on average about $90. But if your going to rattle can it at 10 cans for $9. each.....? Also with bulk paint I can add hardeners, retarders, reducers, or whatever & create the base coat I want. Just my own experience here.

Valspar rattle cans. I've used them. No problems. JD a little better in terms of can operation & its worth the extra $. However I find JD yellow to be a difficult paint to work with. Don't understand why.
 

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Pretty much everything has been covered except when it comes to krylon. Just say no, unless you want a blue tractor in a couple years.
 

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I used the JD paint I got from the dealer, it was about $22 for a qt. I sprayed it with a HVLP gun I got from Harbor Freight for $15.99, it's well worth the money and does a nice job.. 20 fl. oz. HVLP Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun . I used rust-oleum metal primer, some in the rattle cans and some from a qt.. just make sure it's dry before spraying the finish.. You can see the results here.. My 265 project..
 

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I used the JD paint I got from the dealer, it was about $22 for a qt. I sprayed it with a HVLP gun I got from Harbor Freight for $15.99, it's well worth the money and does a nice job.. 20 fl. oz. HVLP Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun . I used rust-oleum metal primer, some in the rattle cans and some from a qt.. just make sure it's dry before spraying the finish.. You can see the results here.. My 265 project..
Mike I like the rubber floor mat, is that stock or something you found?
 

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So you got a JD that was painted with krylon (JD green) that faded to a nice Ford blue!:laugh::hide:
I almost said ford blue in my original comment, and yes more then one. Usually it’s just a hood or fender pan but there have been entire tractors. It matches the color change caused by a boiled over battery before the damage turns to rust.
 

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Mike I like the rubber floor mat, is that stock or something you found?
The mats are stock. All I did was clean them up..
 
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