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Discussion Starter #1
So this closet under the rear stairwell is off the kitchen. We are going to add shelves down one side and across the back and utilize the space as a pantry. The save is about 5 1/2ft deep by 3 1/2ft wide.

Today I got the 1x2’s stained to rack on the wall to support the shelves.

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Discussion Starter #2
Putted at the new house for awhile today. We took paintings and artwork over and unboxed. Just working through where to hang things. I spent a few hours on the pantry project. I was able to get the cleats on the wall and frames in for the end shelves. Will be 16 inches deep across the back and 12 along the side. Sides will be full length and the 16’s will set on the frames. Top edge of the Top side shelf sits right at 60in.

I will stat cutting and laying out shelves Tomm if it doesn’t tspake to long to clean up the sloppy mess from the storm tonight, I will cut and fit so I can set wher to router the edges, then We get to stain.

And of course when I dropped the not cut to length 16 wide shelf on the back it’s apparent I will have to scribe in the sides along the wall.

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You may want to give some thought to melmanine shelving material. Stained and finished shelves will scratch up from canned goods. I used it in my pantry 20 years ago and it still looks great today.

I finished the edges with some matching pre-glued, heat activated, edge banding. Wood Worker's Supply sold this edging trimmer that has a "U" shaped channel that saddles the edge with an internal blade trimmer. It was quick and did a nice job. No issue with the edge banding coming loose after 20 years, either.

We're at the daughter's home in Florida at this time, otherwise I'd offer some photos. We won't be returning to the frozen tundra until the end of the month.
 

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You may want to give some thought to melmanine shelving material. Stained and finished shelves will scratch up from canned goods. I used it in my pantry 20 years ago and it still looks great today.
Stained plywood a golden oak tone and finished ours with a clear coat (poly?) in 1976. No problem with canned goods. Now if it had been painted... Have used melamine for paint cans in unheated shop. Rust stains hard to remove. Not an apples to apples comparison - just reporting.
 

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Painted ours, 10-15 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Had some time to spend on the pantry today. I got all of the shelves fit and then figured out the best angle to work with to cut the shelves back so you don’t run into a corner when you open the door and step in.

Tomorrow I have to 1/4 round the edges with the router and prep and start staining.

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Smart angling on those shelves. No need for them to be dangerous weapons.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After staining a three coats of poly I mounted the shelves today. Project is complete. On to the next the rental house was so boring. :boredom:

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Looks good and plenty of space :bigthumb:
 

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Meager, you may want to add legs at the corners, my wife loads the crap out of the shelves in our pantry. I figured if I could sit on them she probably wouldn't break them.:hi:
We had the same problem. I added an oak 1.5" x 1.5" upright with 2" x 2" base in the corner with support brackets for each shelf and leveled them up.:bigthumb:
 

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...my wife loads the crap out of the shelves in our pantry.
Amen to that! When I was a bachelor, I was only concerned about the square foot loading of dust.:lol:

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Discussion Starter #14
Yup I think legs will be a good idea. I just have to decide if I want to route a notch in each shelf and run one top to bottom or just cut and mount individually between the shelves.
 

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Yup I think legs will be a good idea. I just have to decide if I want to route a notch in each shelf and run one top to bottom or just cut and mount individually between the shelves.
If you got the tools and know how notching would definitely look best. Especially since it’s all stained. Or maybe even nailed to the front. You can even add 1x2 to the whole front which would also add a little more stability. I like the look of the 1x2 front. Add fronts and 1 long leg to the floor in the middle of your long skinny shelves.
Nothing wrong with no 1x2 fronts either :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think I will make a jig and notch with the router. The pine is multi piece glued boards and I would be afraid of a piece breaking out if I did it wit the dado head on the table saw.
 

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I think I will make a jig and notch with the router. The pine is multi piece glued boards and I would be afraid of a piece breaking out if I did it wit the dado head on the table saw.
How about just laminating 1x2? The outer board would be a continuous face frame. The inner pieces cut to the appropriate lengths to fit between the shelves and yield the desired support notch. This would be stronger than routing out a single board and be less likely to twist/warp.
 
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