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Discussion Starter #1
So obviously it's not a tractor engine but it is an irrigation pump so it sorta fits this section. I have a perkins t6.3544 engine running a water pump, it runs fine overall but I have an oil loss problem that I just found whare I'm losing the oil. The oil is coming out the dipstick! Not like gushing out or anything but it has no seal and I think it's the submerged dipstick tube setup so any little bit if crank case pressure on this older engine caused the oil to slowly run down the side of the dip stick. The crank vent tube is working fine and it have maybe a tiny but extra blown but nothing crazy. I can take the oil fill cap off when it's running and not get anything more than a slight haze no real pressure but the dipstick loses oil. It seems to be when it goes past 2100 rpm that It gets the pressure to push it out the stick. We had the valve guides repaired over the winter because it was actually burning oil but now it just loses oil out the dipstick. I have been confused for weeks whare my oil was going and I just noticed it running down the dipstick a little and thus why It is ending up in the spot I do see it. So question is what can I do to fix this? Can I seal the dipstick so it still pulls out but will keep oil from pushing out? Some way or another? Or just deal with it.... thanks!
 

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sounds like a plugged vent or pvc valve

my last perkins engine in a caterpillar had a vent off the "valve cover" to relieve pressure
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Side note, what is the design safe rpm to run these at for extended periods? Like when I'm running irrigation guns it could run at 2300-2400 for extended periods. Is this too high for this engine?
 

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most like 2100-2200 so i would think you would be in the "safe" range.........personally i rarely run any of my diesel stuff above 2000 ...and usually more like 1800 ...but thats just me ( you can probably look up your specific engine model and see what the design rpm range is)


also since the vent appears to be working correctly i am not sure why your having problems with the dipstick.......i would be tempted to put a tight O-ring around the dipstick at the top to seal it and see if that worked...most dipsticks positively engage the tube to keep them sealed to keep them from blowing oil out...and drawing in dust and dirt
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oring wouldent melt? Or fall in... also when u look up the engine specs it just says 2600 for rpm so maybe that's max?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I checked the vent, I thought there would be a pcv valve but I guess it's just a direct vent? Or maybe it was modified? Also the engine is not on a level pad apparently so it could be that theres too much oil. I added an oring to the dipstick to hopefully fix the issue.
 

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o-ring should be fine heat wise.........wouldnt want it to fall in either but that wouldnt be the end of the world use your own judgement on fit and risk...


if the spec says 2600 that is usually the RPM the hp is rated at, so it should be ok .....usually generators and pumps run at 1800-2200 so you might look up your pump spec for rpms and match it up, also many times the specs will include a fuel ussage chart that is good to consider on a constant speed application like a pump....its all a balence in my opinion
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The pump is peak efficiency at 2400 rpm. I only run it higher than 21 when I need high pressure. I found orings that fit nice so that may fix it atleast. I also noticed the engine is not level in the pump spot so max on the dipstick will be a bit more than full.
 

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most like 2100-2200 so i would think you would be in the "safe" range.........personally i rarely run any of my diesel stuff above 2000 ...and usually more like 1800 ...but thats just me ( you can probably look up your specific engine model and see what the design rpm range is)
You sir are welcome to come run our tractors anytime you want. :thumbup1gif:
You are not alone, my FIL taught me a long time ago to only run what the task at hand calls for. Drives me nuts on here when I hear guys talk about WOT for almost everything.
 

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Hi All
I had a mark 2 6.354 in a truck. When I initially installed the engine the oil pressure was low ( 5 psi at idle and 25 psi at 2000 rpm), the engine was in good condition but the oil pump was suspect so I installed a later model high volume pump (possibly a mark 4 pump) and new relief valve, no change.
I rang the distributor for the engines for help, they asked what oil I was using, it was a multi grade. They said under no circumstances use a multi grade these engines were designed in the 1950 when multi grade oil was not around. They said I should use a SAE 30 monograde oil so I changed to Mobil Delvac 1330 oil. After I changed to the mono grade the oil pressure improved (25 psi at idle and 55 psi at 2000 rpm)
So check what the manufacturers oil specification is ( it might be different for a T6.3544) , as you might be using the wrong oil as I was.
As for rpm, I worked for a milk processing company who used IHC Prime movers ( I think you call then tractors) powered by perkins 6.354 engines, they pulled single axle tanker trailers, the engines were up there on the revs all the time and worked 24/ 7 only stopping for servicing, they were very reliable.
Regards John
 

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I do usually run the engine to the needed task, irrigation guns need high pressure so that's why the rpm is higher. Also the oring fixed the dipstick leak.
That's good to hear, thanks for the follow up. :good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well it's not all good news... since we got this engine 2 years ago the radiator would leak a bit at really high loads. We always assumed it was because it has no overflow tank so it just blew off excess when pressure got high. Well like 20 mins ago I found out this is in fact a radiator leak. It had always just started and stopped and the fluid originated near the cap so I assumed the blow off but tonight I found out different. The radiator sprung a leak and this time it did not shut up. I was running 2 pump on my main line instead of one so I could keep this one at around 20-21 so it was under very normal load for this to happen. Luckily this has what's called a murphys switch which monitors multiple things including oil pressure and engine temp so the engine came out just fine. (Heart was still in my throat though when I turned the key) I'm wondering if somone had put a leak stop thing in the radiator before or somthing because when I checked inside the radiator the fluid was grey and bubbly..... very gross looking. I started the engine just long enough to make sure it was ok and of course the leak had sealed itself again and there was still prestone in it so the engine started to cool down right away. I let it idle a min or 2 as I hate shutting off engines without a cool down. Some of my online searches said that funky looking coolant could mean oil In the coolant, but considering the head gasket is new and the engine shows no weird smoke or anything it is much more likely just stirred up corrosion from previous owners lack of care. I need to pump water, I do wonder if it is easily fixed or not ...... or if it will stay sealed again.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Side note the gunky stuff was only a tiny bit floating on the top, just looked like more when it was sitting on the fins. When I topped it up it was just a tiny little blob of crap.
 

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radiator leaks never get better only worse.......not to be confused with a radiator hose leak...

if you have funky looking coolant you need to drain and replace and monitor ...could be nothing ...could be major...

i am not a fan of stop leak but i guess it beats no coolant

personally i would plan for a down time to remove and repair or replace the radiator but if you have oil getting into your coolant you have bigger issues than a radiator leak

a murphy switch is a good thing

since this is a critical engine in your irrigation system it might pay to have a competent mechanic to come look it over and service the engine while he is there and voice your concerns
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The coolant looks fine, it ended up just being a small bit of crap that was sitting ontop of the fins and It made it look like alot of weird colored coolant. I filled the radiator back up to find the leak and see how bad it was, I left the cap off and ran the engine at low speed so I could look in and see if anything weird was traveling through the coolant but it was fine. It used to blow off somtimes before when pressure built but never out the tube it's supposed to. It may have just pushed past the pipe clamp on a hose or somthing.... I'm pretty sure this is caused by a bad pressure relief cap, the radiator blew but at no point did it come from the cap or hose attached to the cap. In hindsight I should have payed closer attention to the unusual leak.... I just thought the relief cap was spraying around itself instead of down the tube or somthing. There will be down time, the radiator just blows out coolant now so it is done. I have an 800gpm PTO pump and a 1000 gpm on the same line but it's reservoir is dry. I'm just glad the murphys switch is there, It was not long after it shut off that I arrived at the pump and it seems the switch doesn't allow it to go much distance over it's max operation temp. It usually runs at 190-195 and it was around 220 when it kicked out. I can manage but It's a very dry summer so I don't want it down too too long
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So the orings in the dipstick caused pressure to build and it blew the dipstick out and oil. Oddly enough if I leave the dipstick out I get a small bit of vapors from it and normal from the crank vent. No matter the rpm or load, one night the load was a bit high from moving a ton of water for alot of irrigation and the exhaust was glowing in a few spots( only faintly) and the amount of vapors and pressure was still the Same. I turned it down after that as I don't need to run it that hard I can turn off one field for later. I patched the pressure issue by making the dipstick a vent too but somthing causes a pressure blockage between that area and the vent at full load. But all is working good otherwise, I find engines very interesting as I never got into it alot until recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The saga continues... this engine is a great running powerhouse but it hates oil and idk why. It does not have excessive blowby and after I figured out that the oil level on the dipstick is too high either from it being the wrong stick or the tube being replaced I no longer had the high crank case pressure issue. We bought this used and there is a spot of weld on the dipstick tube which could mean it was changed for some reason. It is very inconsistent, itll run 40 hours and not burn a drop of oil, but it can burn like 5L in 40 just all of a sudden. It's like this engine is wearing out the oil for some reason... which is bizzare since these engines have an oil cooler which should help with that. Theres a little splatter by the vent tube after an all day run which spread out looks like a bunch but I wiped it up over and over with the same piece of shop towel and it still has hot saturated it. Blowby is around enough that if u plugged the vent tube for like... 15-20 seconds u would get a small burst of air. The only thing I'm wondering now is if it's going out the back, this engine runs a water pump with a graphite style of seal. The seal drips as it is supposed to and water is actually picked up by the fly wheel and spun around, drips off the back of the engine. Sort of unintentional added cooling, if theres any oil seals back in that area it could easily drip into that water and be lost without any sign. Engine starts easy in cold or hot, little throttle needed in cold but it roars right to life and besides the first few seconds of startup it has no visible exhaust smoke color. Normal clear exhaust gases, it can't run out of oil because it has the murphys system so if oil pressure drops it shuts down so that's not a worry. It's not super difficult to add oil I am just worried if theres sludge or other deposits forming inside the engine that will cause issues. I do know the engine does burn a tiny bit of extra fuel as told by the repair people when the valve guides were replaced. Injection pump needs tuning to fix that, but it's not enough for it to have black smoke from running rich or anything. This was just last winter and they looked at the cylinders to see rings and pistons in good shape. I hope they didn't screw up the valve guide repair and it still burns oil that way, I don't think it's that though. When it had bad valve guides it smoked so bad u had to close ur eyes for a min while it cleared up or it would burn ur eyes. I'm starting to think it is leaking oil in a spot that it escapes without an obvious trail. oil pressure is great, 60-70 cold and drops to 60-65 once it's warm. I may try one of thoes additives that is supposed to fix bad oil seals but I really hate adding mystery fluids to my engine. It runs for very long runs, today it ran like.... 15+ hours at 2000 RPM. Yesterday probably the same... but was up and down in rpm a bit depending on the water pressure I needed. I'm gunna have to call it the mystery machine I think. Just to clarify the blowby amount I can add oil with it running, it was running at 2000 and I noticed the oil pressure dropping so I went to add oil and I had no issue with the oil being blown back out at me but the big gigantic fan a few inches away made it impossible to add any. If I had a piece of cardboard to block the wind just around the filler tube for a few seconds it would have poured right in no problem. This post seems to have become partly a question and partly me thinking out loud. Thanks for any advice!
 
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