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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there everyone! Today i decided to make a deal on a 110 that had a broken bell housing, has been welded back together, was told it moved after the repair, but now does not move.

The weld repair on the bell housing looks very good, thorough and i believe the tractor was torn all apart to get it fixed to the extent that it is, so my take on it is the PO is probably telling the truth about it moving because i dunno why anyone would go to the cost time and torture of making such a repair for it not to work..

When i picked up the TLB i was getting a code on the little wrench light but being uneducated at the time i didn't realize it blinked a sequence to tell u what is wrong...but now i am not getting that light and from my understanding it should come on when the key is turned on to verify that it is functional... seat switch seems to be bypassed, and i think i can verify this because the PTO will engage with me off the seat.

Everything else in the rear of the tractor seems to work just fine, hydraulics are strong and responsive, PTO comes on with no trouble,
and the 3pt hitch arms move as expected... there is no weird noises, and when the pedals are pushed its as if nothing is being registered... my thoughts from what I've read in the past couple days is the transmission may need recalibrated... give me some input people, there are so many knowledgable people on here.

I realize in order to recalibrate either a dealer has to do it or you need some kind of special software?? is this something i can acquire and do my self?

Thanks to all in Advance
 

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A service manual would be an excellent investment in your machine. While we do have some members here with knowledge on 110s, there's no substitute for the factory manual.

I believe your tractor is functionally similar to the 4X20 series, and there are some calibrations that can be done without needing factory software. I'm not familiar enough with them to be much help beyond that, though. I'm sure someone will be along shortly that can offer a bit more insight.

Did the previous owner say how the bell housing was damaged? I doubt that has much to do with your problem, but I'm curious. Those don't really break very often...:dunno:
 

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Did the previous owner say how the bell housing was damaged? I doubt that has much to do with your problem, but I'm curious. Those don't really break very often...:dunno:
It seems that cracked bell housings occur on the 110's more often than one would expect. If my memory serves me, there may be some bolts that loosen up. then cause extra stress....not sure though. There have been a few threads on TBN.
 

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Arlen is 100% correct, this is a semi-common failure on machines that are neglected especially in the area where the loader mounts. Blake is also correct that the service manual would be invaluable, but its the same platform as the older 4x10 machines, particularly the 4710 CUT.

This thread has some info, the calibration should be similar if not the same on your 110TLB. There is no "special software" that I know of: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/large-frame-compact-utility-tractors-lcut/19013-4310-ehydro-will-not-move.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys! I called the local dealer today and they have a paper copy of the manual so I'm gonna pick that up today... I'll be ecstatic if I get it moving without too much money or work... I traded a rough looking but mechanically great, 4010cut with 1036hrs, 60" loader, 48"brush hog, 60" belly mower and a 60" back blade for this 110 that's has 2700hrs and came with the 72"hd bucket and a set of forks... I hope I did the right thing... this tractor will meet more of my demands the the little 4010 did...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So i got the manual.... got the HST light to start working again (matter of a bad connection) but when i try to go into calibration mode the light will only stay on, it doesnt flash a code to goto the next step or to even start the calibration for that matter.. any ideas?
 

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If you read the thread Kenny posted you will read in there that there are specific reasons to do the recalibration. The recalibration WILL NOT FIX ANYTHING. It will only tell the tractor what the operator is requesting the tractor to do and send that request to the hydraulic motors.

If you moved the f12 fuse and put it in to recalibration mode you have only added to your problems. You will need to follow the directions in the Technical Manual. Exactly. Let us know when you get stuck and we will try to help.

I am assuming the 110 tlb has the same computer system as the 4x10 series tractors.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So where do i start?? lol

I thought that maybe since the bell housing has been welded, and the tractor was torn apart to do that, that the potentiometers were all out of wack, and by doing a recalibration would set them to zero and tell the controller where TOT and BOT of those sensors is suppose to be...

I don't have 5volts going to the throttle sensor. Should I? I'm thinking i should have 5 volts to it no matter what and its the output voltage from it that needs to be "adjusted" along with the other potentiometers however i haven't seen if they have input voltage or not..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Anyone?? I thought this would be a more popular post... lol I need the tractor running In a bad way... any help is greatly appreciated... do I recalibrate first? Is my controller bad because I don't have 5 volts out? Or do I need to focus somewhere else first?
 

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So where do i start?? lol

I thought that maybe since the bell housing has been welded, and the tractor was torn apart to do that, that the potentiometers were all out of wack, and by doing a recalibration would set them to zero and tell the controller where TOT and BOT of those sensors is suppose to be...

I don't have 5volts going to the throttle sensor. Should I? I'm thinking i should have 5 volts to it no matter what and its the output voltage from it that needs to be "adjusted" along with the other potentiometers however i haven't seen if they have input voltage or not..
All the potentiometers are the same. One wire is 5v reference. Middle is the voltage going to controller. The other end is ground.

If you do not have voltage going to any of the potentiometers, that is where you need to start. Make sure each also has ground too.

All the potentiometers need to be set to their proper TOT and BOT before you can try to recalibrate. What I did was back probe the connections and read the voltages in "real" time. Get them all set to spec.
 

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Anyone?? I thought this would be a more popular post... lol I need the tractor running In a bad way... any help is greatly appreciated... do I recalibrate first? Is my controller bad because I don't have 5 volts out? Or do I need to focus somewhere else first?

MFreund is on the right track, if you're not getting the proper reference voltage to the pots then there's no way you'll ever get the right output from them.

The 110 is a great machine, but at this point in time it's been out of production for a few years and there aren't as many owners of JD's construction equipment online as there are the ag machines. We have members here who can help and are familiar with your machine, but it may take some time for them to see this thread. You bought a 'project' tractor and speaking from personal experience- there's usually a reason the other person is selling it. :flag_of_truce: Once you get it sorted out you'll have a great machine, but unfortunately getting it sorted may take some time. Keep us updated on your progress, and we'll help the best we can.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
All the potentiometers are the same. One wire is 5v reference. Middle is the voltage going to controller. The other end is ground.

If you do not have voltage going to any of the potentiometers, that is where you need to start. Make sure each also has ground too.

All the potentiometers need to be set to their proper TOT and BOT before you can try to recalibrate. What I did was back probe the connections and read the voltages in "real" time. Get them all set to spec.
Ok I'm with you on that, however, where do the pots get their 5v from? The controller correct? I have back probed the terminal for the throttle pot with no voltage... so does that mean the controller is bad, or in "memory loss mode" or could other things like a bad ground cause that? I have 6 codes from the hst light:

**-*
-*-*
----
*-**
--**
**--
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Another question, do they only have voltage with the key on and running? Or do u can u just have the key on? Reason why I'm asking is i removed the fuel tank to get tor rhe controller and it's corresponding harness...
 

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There is a code list for the 4x10 series located here in the GTT Technical library. I am not 100% sure if they are the same or not.

Any one able to look up the codes from a 110 tlb tech manual?

Have you checked the fuses? The fuse box has air from the engine fan blowing air across the back and gets very dirty. I would clean the back up and then make sure the fuses are good.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have the codes for the tech manual... I didn't know if any of those stuck out to anyone is why I listed them, I would of wrote them out, but don't have my manual with me at the moment...
 

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There is almost no failures of the controllers on these tractors. All the problems they seem to have are potentiometer sensors out of adjustment and wires pulled out of connectors. As for the no 5 v, it will take following the wires from the controller to the potentiometers.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I guess I wasn't very clear on my description, when I measured the output voltage from the Controller to the throttle pot, I did it by back probing at the controller wire, I believe it was blue, I can look up the wire number if it would help...
 

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Can you list the codes. I only have a Tech manual for the 4x10 series and not sure if they are the same. If you post what they are then I can compare the 4x10 series and try to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Can you list the codes. I only have a Tech manual for the 4x10 series and not sure if they are the same. If you post what they are then I can compare the 4x10 series and try to help.
All I have at the moment is the short hand of what I wrote down, but I can get u more info later..

**-* throttle position
-*-* inching lever
---- sensor supply voltage
*-** foward pedal
--** reverse pedal
**-- valve output solenoid
 
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