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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning on building a garage at my cabin next Spring. The max size ( enclosed) is a 30x40. I plan on having two 12 foot over hangs on each side make to roof size 54x40. I require one of the over hangs to be at least 12'6" to store our Motorhome. The other overhang can be smaller in size as this will be more of a patron and storage for a few cords of firewood. I thought might be best just to keep it the same... Not sure. I have drawn a sketch with two garage doors, one would be fine. I want a entrance under the patio side overhang. The enclosed portion will be 30x40 and 12 foot walls (max allowed). I want the base of the wall to no less than 2' high block to prevent rot from the snow. I plan on having a 4 post hoist inside. I have 200 amps service in the cabin so the May pull 100 from there or if needed maybe it's own service.
No plumbing other than a floor drain.

This in the planning stage and open to ideas and suggestions. One issue is that this building will be set back about 20 ft from my cabin and the cabin is rustic log. I can't afford to do this in log so I think I will go t-111 and do some log like trim. I saw a garage down the road from us like this. Cabin will be in the 49659 area code, so snow is a factor.

Thanks,
AWK
 

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Looks good , I wouldn't go with T-111 , just because of always a upkeep cost. I did and would go with a metal siding and roof. You can get just about any color of siding or roof that you may want . Less cost in the long run.
 

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Biggest mistake I made when I built our barn was to use T-111. The cost of good stain today and the labor in staining is way too much.
Staining T-111 is like staining a sponge.
 

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I have similar needs (RV storage, etc...) and am looking at building a barn the same size. I've been looking more at Monitor Style barns with the thinking that the sidewalls over the two side roofs could have windows along them to allow for some natural lighting. I also don't want a single huge roof.

So thusfar the plan is standing seam metal roof and log siding (instead of real logs). I decided I'd just run a separate 200 amp service to the barn and leave it on it's own meter. In my case that's easier than trying to run service from the house.
 

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Agree with Gizmo2 ,, if you have a lot of time to WASTE and a LOT more MONEY to throw away , I still have several projects I need help finishing . :laugh:
 

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Looks good , I wouldn't go with T-111 , just because of always a upkeep cost. I did and would go with a metal siding and roof. You can get just about any color of siding or roof that you may want . Less cost in the long run.
I agree with this. Also the 2 large doors - one large and one small - is good. Think ahead - you might want that larger door big enough to get your motor home in to work on it / clean it in the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the inputs, keep them coming. Staining is part of life with a log cabin, so I own sprayer. There is another log cabin about ten miles from me and they put out a vinyl sided garage.... Wife doesn't like the look, want s to stay more in the period and I have to agree. Some day I will at least log side the front. We see another cabin garage that has t-111 and vertical trim boards on some of the seams. Looks good. I gave noticed that many old barns have vertical board while the home is horizontal.

AWK
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I agree with this. Also the 2 large doors - one large and one small - is good. Think ahead - you might want that larger door big enough to get your motor home in to work on it / clean it in the winter.
Zoning only allows a 12ft. I am trying for a variance, but I understand from others that tough fight. I agree, I would really like to get it inside sometimes if I could. The motor height is actually 12feet 5/8 inches!
 

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A more practical view point. :mocking:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I has something to do the apple IPad. It is right up for me!
 

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I has something to do the apple IPad. It is right up for me!
Yup, Apple and Microsoft don't like to play together.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Anyone able to give a rough estimate on the cost of this project? I would like a metal roof.
 

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Personally, I'd run a separate electric service to your shop, for a couple reasons:
a. You're able to track exactly what the shop electric costs are, on a monthly and yearly basis.
b. If you decide to add a 220V welder, or any other device that runs on 220V, you wont trip al the power off feeding the cabin.
c. You will be happier in the long run with a dedicated 220V service to the shop, as you can dictate more breakers and lines to lighting, receptacles, tool use, electric heaters if desired, etc......
For example, I run 1 30A breaker to all receptacles half-way around my shop, and a separate 30A breaker to cover the other half of the shop.
It creates less of a "load" on the wiring system that way.
I also have separate dedicated 220V receptacles for both sides of the shop.
I also integrated a connection for running all electric from a generator, in the event we have a power loss due to a hurricane or other inclement weather. This provides service to my entire shop and my "Man Cave Setting Room", which has a queen-sized pullout sofa, A/C, LP Gas 30,000 BTU heater, gas stove and refrigerator out in the shop area, as well as the electric service to my chest freezer in an attached little shop on the other side of my setting room.
If power goes out, I'm still good to go for at least a month with the back-up food supplies I have put together in storage out in the big shop and all the frozen essentials, and 20 cases of bottled water. Not to mention the 15 pounds of coffee, lol.
Yep, sometimes, even "I" think I look too far ahead. Hope for the best, but prepare for the worse. :thumbup1gif:
 

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I agree with Bill Berger. However, beware of the additional service charge from the electric company. The electrical service charges we pay on two of the other properties we own are more than the electric we use on those properties.
 

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My shop electric generally runs me $32.00 - $35.00 a month, and I spend a LOT of time out there, even if not working on something just listening to my NPR radio station, and relaxin'. :good2:
 

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Zoning only allows a 12ft. I am trying for a variance, but I understand from others that tough fight. I agree, I would really like to get it inside sometimes if I could. The motor height is actually 12feet 5/8 inches!
Put in some high clearance trusses down the middle so you can get the motorhome in there and still meet the 12ft max req't.

I don't think I've EVER met anyone who said "I wish my shop/garage was smaller".
 

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You may get a bigger door opening if you went with track style slide to the side doors versus garage style for clearance issues and your height variance problem. Not as energy tight, but it would help.
 

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Personally, I'd run a separate electric service to your shop, for a couple reasons:
a. You're able to track exactly what the shop electric costs are, on a monthly and yearly basis.
b. If you decide to add a 220V welder, or any other device that runs on 220V, you wont trip al the power off feeding the cabin.
c. You will be happier in the long run with a dedicated 220V service to the shop, as you can dictate more breakers and lines to lighting, receptacles, tool use, electric heaters if desired, etc......
For example, I run 1 30A breaker to all receptacles half-way around my shop, and a separate 30A breaker to cover the other half of the shop.
It creates less of a "load" on the wiring system that way.
I also have separate dedicated 220V receptacles for both sides of the shop.
I also integrated a connection for running all electric from a generator, in the event we have a power loss due to a hurricane or other inclement weather. This provides service to my entire shop and my "Man Cave Setting Room", which has a queen-sized pullout sofa, A/C, LP Gas 30,000 BTU heater, gas stove and refrigerator out in the shop area, as well as the electric service to my chest freezer in an attached little shop on the other side of my setting room.
If power goes out, I'm still good to go for at least a month with the back-up food supplies I have put together in storage out in the big shop and all the frozen essentials, and 20 cases of bottled water. Not to mention the 15 pounds of coffee, lol.
Yep, sometimes, even "I" think I look too far ahead. Hope for the best, but prepare for the worse. :thumbup1gif:
I'm still in the planning stages for my barn. All of the power in our area is underground. It would be a 500' run underground to get to my barn site from the street to pull new service, which I haven't even asked the power company about because, I do believe the costs would be more than the 24x40 structure that I'm planning. Sometimes it just isn't reasonable to do so.
 

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When building the shop I had them bore and come up in the utility room in my basement to pull power from my house. I didn't want another meter fee. The price of the boring was very high by some companies. I was able to get our rural water association come out and bore the 135 feet for 329.00, which was a good price when others wanted 1,700.00

The house has a 400 amp service so we pulled a 100 amp off of this for the shop. I did add 2 220 amp outlets for any welding I might do. Although I haven't done any welding yet.

I got my 1st electric bill the other day with the shop added to it. It was about 40.00 higher than usual, also temp is kept at 60 degrees.

Our last home only had a 100 amp service with 220 for the dryer and 220 in the garage for welding and I didn't have any issues.

I really like the patio area that you have a roof over. Looks like an exciting project!



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That does make a difference. Although, my shop is 420 ft. off the access road, our "Co-Op" we get power from, and has a provision that they only run 400 ft. max., I was able to convince them to add a "step-down transformer" 200 ft. off the road, and thus, the 400 ft. stipulation was wiped out of the equation.
Sometimes, a golden light shines down on those who have ideas and dreams to bring to fruition. :cheers:
 
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