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Discussion Starter #1
I bought 2 different sizes of straight zerks to hopefully replace the one on the rear driveshaft Ujoint that is turned such that it is impossible to get a grease gun on it. Been like this since new. Now at 200 hours on the 2025R gen. 1, I assume.

So, when the outdoor sauna somewhat ends, I'll crawl underneath there with the tractor on the ramp to the carriage house for extra clearance. Then see if I can get the zerk out of there and put in a new one. Got both sizes. Not sure what the existing one is. Has the wrench points; so, it is probably not pressed in.

It'll likely be the wrong position; so, I gotta either have the wife start the thing with me under there or crawl under while it is running to determine rotation direction. Then use channel locks or something to rotate the shaft to where I can get to the zerk.

Then, if I get this one replaced and lubed, I'll look for the front one again. As I recall, I've only ever been able to see it through a tiny (<1 inch wide) window just below it. Cannot even tell whether it has a zerk and whether IT is not screwed in where one cannot get a grease gun on it.

If all this fails, I'll just call JD to come out and lube them and replace the PTO switch that often has to be twiddled with to stay on. Maybe they might be able to get at the front Ujoint with the instrument panel moved to get at the back side of the PTO switch to get it out. Otherwise, I'm living with the PTO switch if I am able to lube the Ujoints.

The joys of bad engineering. Had a 1983 Benz through its 26th year, and it had a flexible (tire sideway like) disc on the front of the driveshaft and Ujoint at the differential. Both fine. Had to tighten the bolts on the front disc once. Wonder what Kubota has.

Ralph
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone remember off hand which direction the driveshaft turns? What's best way to rotate by hand while underneath the tractor?

Ralph
 

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Just climb under it and watch the rotation while someone bumps the starter. Pry bar in the rear joint makes it pretty easy to turn.

Dont think you'll be able to replace just the zirk as tight as the joints are. If you are able, it will be a game changer. I changed out the whole u joints on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Got under the tractor again with it half way down the ramp in front of the carriage house so there's room for me.

Replacing the rear Ujoint grease fitting with a straight one won't work, and there's not enough space for my grease gun to get onto it with such a tight fit in that small Ujoint. Have some other grease guns and fittings and stuff. None work for me.

Looked at the front one through the 1" wide hole they allow below and slightly in front of it. THERE IS NO GREASE FITTING on the front part of the Ujoint there. Might be one on the HST side of the Ujoint.

Driveshaft rotation is counter clockwise looking at the HST box. This is the rotation for any of you wanting to rotate it from the front pulley (to adjust valves or have a buddy doing it for you to do these Ujoints).

Called JD service at New Virginia Tractor. They're picking it up tomorrow to grease the Ujoints and to replace the PTO button. Hopefully, they'll find a grease fitting when they remove the instrument panel and get at the front Ujoint from that side. Otherwise, they can leave it to explode like the front one did on my 4010. Guessing about $300 for them to come get it and do the work from numbers the service guy told me. If much more, I'll be trading it for a Kubota in 200 more hours.

They should protect the rear Ujoint with a brush panel and put in Ujoints good for 2,000 hours or more like in all our cars and pickups. The front (and possibly also the rear) Ujoint should be a tire-like neoprene rubber circle with 4 metal reinforced holes like our 1983 240D Benz had that was still good at 26 years and 215k miles. My neighbor says his bigger JD has at least gone greaseless on the tie rod ends. You can easily check their boots to see there's been any damage rather than to have to grease them. 10 hour regreasing of the ones on the 2025R is ridiculous. Mine (and that swivel joint in the front) both get grease with the rest at 50 hours.

Ralph
 

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Got under the tractor again with it half way down the ramp in front of the carriage house so there's room for me.

Replacing the rear Ujoint grease fitting with a straight one won't work, and there's not enough space for my grease gun to get onto it with such a tight fit in that small Ujoint. Have some other grease guns and fittings and stuff. None work for me.

Looked at the front one through the 1" wide hole they allow below and slightly in front of it. THERE IS NO GREASE FITTING on the front part of the Ujoint there. Might be one on the HST side of the Ujoint.

Driveshaft rotation is counter clockwise looking at the HST box. This is the rotation for any of you wanting to rotate it from the front pulley (to adjust valves or have a buddy doing it for you to do these Ujoints).

Called JD service at New Virginia Tractor. They're picking it up tomorrow to grease the Ujoints and to replace the PTO button. Hopefully, they'll find a grease fitting when they remove the instrument panel and get at the front Ujoint from that side. Otherwise, they can leave it to explode like the front one did on my 4010. Guessing about $300 for them to come get it and do the work from numbers the service guy told me. If much more, I'll be trading it for a Kubota in 200 more hours.

They should protect the rear Ujoint with a brush panel and put in Ujoints good for 2,000 hours or more like in all our cars and pickups. The front (and possibly also the rear) Ujoint should be a tire-like neoprene rubber circle with 4 metal reinforced holes like our 1983 240D Benz had that was still good at 26 years and 215k miles. My neighbor says his bigger JD has at least gone greaseless on the tie rod ends. You can easily check their boots to see there's been any damage rather than to have to grease them. 10 hour regreasing of the ones on the 2025R is ridiculous. Mine (and that swivel joint in the front) both get grease with the rest at 50 hours.

Ralph
Not sure what you are looking at-I have the Gen 1, and have replaced thenu joints. There is a zirk on both. The zirk 8s facing the wrong way, which is why you most likely are having difficulty seeing, and why it is so difficult to get to.

There also is a rubber isolation damper on the front. You can see it in the picture attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not sure I'll find out the full story on my tractor. The gal, who called this afternoon saying they'd return it tomorrow, said that they removed the driveshaft to grease it. Guess they could not get a gun even on that rear zerk either. According to crna in his post, the front zerk is the wrong way. I'd think they could get at it when they removed the instrument cover to get at the PTO switch. Guess same problem as the rear. Gotta have it out and flex it more than it can flex in the tractor to get a gun onto the zerk. Almost that way with the Ujoints on my PTO shafts. I generally grease them when I can bend them almost 90 degrees.

Even greasing at 200 hours is like greasing Ujoints at about 7,000-10,000 miles equivalent on a car or pickup. That's not much. The recommended 50 hour interval is totally ridiculous.

Imagine paying near $400 to JD every 50 hours. My bill will be near $470, around $100 for the PTO switch replacement, I guess.

They should make good quality sealed Ujoints and protect the rear one against brush, etc. damage with a simple plastic or metal guard. On bigger tractors, they've gone to sealed tie rod ends, according to my neighbor who has about a 40 hp one.

Ralph
 

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I'm not sure I'll find out the full story on my tractor. The gal, who called this afternoon saying they'd return it tomorrow, said that they removed the driveshaft to grease it. Guess they could not get a gun even on that rear zerk either. According to crna in his post, the front zerk is the wrong way. I'd think they could get at it when they removed the instrument cover to get at the PTO switch. Guess same problem as the rear. Gotta have it out and flex it more than it can flex in the tractor to get a gun onto the zerk. Almost that way with the Ujoints on my PTO shafts. I generally grease them when I can bend them almost 90 degrees.

Even greasing at 200 hours is like greasing Ujoints at about 7,000-10,000 miles equivalent on a car or pickup. That's not much. The recommended 50 hour interval is totally ridiculous.

Imagine paying near $400 to JD every 50 hours. My bill will be near $470, around $100 for the PTO switch replacement, I guess.

They should make good quality sealed Ujoints and protect the rear one against brush, etc. damage with a simple plastic or metal guard. On bigger tractors, they've gone to sealed tie rod ends, according to my neighbor who has about a 40 hp one.

Ralph

Amen!
 

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Sucks to own a machine like that. My 2320 is not much better. Deere should step up and help us tractor owners out with these design flaws. Criminal!:banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got the bill = $476.73. $120 is for pickup and delivery. I don't have a trailer and really would not trust myself to use one.

Did not separate the PTO button replacement from the driveshaft (and entire tractor) greasing. They stated, re the Ujoint greasing, "Required the drive shaft to be unbolted to grease".

Hope they passed this onto JD in Georgia so that they can maybe get sealed, higher quality Ujoints that won't fail short of maybe 3,000 hours. Maybe put a protector over the rear one to keep stuff from getting to it to ruin it. The front one is well protected.

Had to remove the dash panel to replace the PTO switch, as expected.

Ralph
 

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:flag_of_truce:Off topic alert! :hide:


This makes me want to check the drive shaft on my 6415. JDparts does not show any grease zerks, but I plan to crawl under it and look for myself.

I plan to crawl under it anyway and grease the MFWD driveshaft. It has 3 zerks, I will have to take the anti wrap guards off to access them.

Back to topic :focus::hi:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
None on those clearly visible on the 2025R. Think they rotate at much lower rpm than the driveshaft ones.

Ralph
 

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I don't get it, I can grease it now in 30 mins by taking the dash and console out. From there it is easy. Hardest part used to be taking the steering wheel off but now that it is greased, it comes right off.

I tried underneath and all I would end up doing is filling the open u-joint with grease.



Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Common, so-required 50 hour greasing should not take 30 minutes just to do one Ujoint. Extremely bad engineering.

Ralph
 

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I take the dash apart on my 2320 and grease the front joint by removing the removable cover opening and I grease the rear joint from below. I picked up a needle end, attached it to a pipe nipple and bent it so I could get a decent angle of attack on the zerks. It works great for me.
 

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For me the trick to getting access to the front grease fitting is getting the rear fitting in just the right position. It works for me
 

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Guys when you are able to get connected to the zero with grease flowing does it seem to flow evenly in the joints? On my 2320 I see grease squeeze out of only a potion of the joint. Of course it’s hard to see in there. Any tricks to even flow within the joint? For example should it be greased after the unit has been run for sometime to get the grease warm. Just curious.
 

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Guys when you are able to get connected to the zero with grease flowing does it seem to flow evenly in the joints? On my 2320 I see grease squeeze out of only a potion of the joint. Of course it’s hard to see in there. Any tricks to even flow within the joint? For example should it be greased after the unit has been run for sometime to get the grease warm. Just curious.
The only way to try to loosen up the other side of the joint (assuming it is due to being tight, and not from lack of.proper lubrication) would be to rotate the joint 180 degrees and lube it in that position as well. Obviously, on these tractors that is not an option. Just lube away. You will have some spillage, but better to lose a pump or two of grease than have the joint too dry.
 

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Just to be clear, taking the dash apart on a newer 2025 doesn't work, its different than the older 2 series tractors.
 
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