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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
I've got a small leak on a fuel tank right where it bolts to the lawn tractor. I've tried using a soldering iron to melt the plastic. That holds for a few days but eventually it leaks again. What else can I do to seal it up?
 

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Interesting question. I have managed some repairs on hdpe items using a heat gun to melt it till it's pliable and molding things into shape. But I have never had to fix something containing a liquid. I'll be following this to see how others do this too.
 
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Is it a crack or a hole?
 
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Did a quick Google search and found several sites (here’s one below) that say do not use epoxy since it dries rigid and hdpe will expand and contract with temperature variation (and/or will get dissolved by fuel). Several sites say use a heat gun and filler. The only experience I have that is similar is ski base repair, and ptex (a type of polyethylene) is readily available. Not sure if hdpe filler is the same as ptex filler, but could be (see Amazon link below).

Edit: polypropylene and hdpe are different plastics but perhaps similar to repair, need to find the right filler — HDPE and PP Plastic: What's the Difference? | Acme Plastics
 
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Hi guys,
I've got a small leak on a fuel tank right where it bolts to the lawn tractor. I've tried using a soldering iron to melt the plastic. That holds for a few days but eventually it leaks again. What else can I do to seal it up?
I worked in the automotive prototype and design industry for 30+ years. All plastics are different. Some plastic such as ABS can be epoxied together with specific adhesives. Other plastics such as Polypropylene and HDPE need to be “ plastic welded” together at specific temperatures due to the fact that if it is too hot the plastic compounds will crystalize and be worthless.

The Drader Plastic Welder is the industry standard for fixing and repairing plastic. Unfortunately the welder is very pricey and the average person cannot justify buying it.


A hot air welder is your second best option but they are not bullet bullet proof like the Drader.

Unfortunately there is not an easy solution to the best of my knowledge. Plastic welding at the correct temperature with HDPE filler rod is your best bet. The filler rod can be home made from HDPE flat stock cut into strips if needed
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you both for the reply. Yeah I've seen comments about epoxy,jb weld and seal all. Thats why I tried the soldering iron first. I wonder of its not cleaned enough or getting to hot. Seems to hold for a few days while I work on other parts then out of no where it starts leaking. Its like its slowly dissolving. I will try again make sure it cleaned and try to use a lower temp as well!
I can't justify 200to 300 $cad. For a new or used tank.
 

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Thank you both for the reply. Yeah I've seen comments about epoxy,jb weld and seal all. Thats why I tried the soldering iron first. I wonder of its not cleaned enough or getting to hot. Seems to hold for a few days while I work on other parts then out of no where it starts leaking. Its like its slowly dissolving. I will try again make sure it cleaned and try to use a lower temp as well!
I can't justify 200to 300 $cad. For a new or used tank.
I doubt a soldering iron will work. But it doesn’t hurt to try again. Hot air welder with HDPE soldering rod is your best shot at a permanent repair.
 

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Depends on how close you look :LOL:
Oh, I bet a real close-up of that would make an interesting picture! 🤔😉
 

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I’ve never tried to weld hdpe in the way you are talking but I have fused (welded) miles of hdpe pipe in a fusion machine. The heating plate is set at 475 degrees no matter the thickness or diameter of the pipe. The difference is the pipe gets squeezed together and you need a filler of some sort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I pulled the tank and used grinded the previous "fix" down and found a large crack i didnt notice the first time. I cleaned it all up and instead of using a soldering iron I used a small wood burning tool I had. It doesn't get as hot and seemed to have melted the plastic a lot better. I pressurized the tank for a few min and didn't see any bubbles. Mounted it and put some gas back in. Ill check on it in a few days see if the leak comes back. I dont actually use the mower to cut grass, just rebuilding it to drive daughter around the yard(mower deck completely removed of course.)
I've got my govenor set and just need to make final adjustments on the carb. Next step is to replace the drive belt. Noticed some cracks on it and was slipping a lot on the winter driving in the snow ❄ 😃
 

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I just fixed a big hole in a gator tank, used a heat gun to get it back in shape then after a lot of research used Loctite epoxy, only one that said will work with some plastics, 6 months and stilling holding.
 

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If it does it again, look and see if you can figure out the source of the stress thats causing it to crack, ans see if you can do something to "unload" that stress. That way your crack fix will be "pluggin a leak" instead of a load bearing repair.
Also... if you can get a hot air rework station for SMT electronics, and find out the temp for the plastic, that might make a good tool for you.
Lastly.. for your "welding rod" .. look for webbing, mold flash, or other "extra" plastic on the tank that you could maybe scrape, grind, or cut off for welding material..good to use the same plastic for this type of repair.
The staple idea above does work... and if you can melt a layer if thin plastic over it..the staple wont rust and fail as quickly.
Good luck!!!

here's an inexpensive rework setup..
 
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