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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally hooked up my first box blade and thought I would ask some advice. I know from reading about box blades that there is a learning curve.

To start I've got the scarifiers up all the way and adjusted (lengthened) the top arm so the rear blade doesn't bite to much. Maybe tomorrow I should try shortening the top arm :unknown:

The part that I scratch my head over is when trying to level out a piece of ground. If I drop the 3ph all the way it usually digs in too much. If I lift it a little the blade doesn't cut like I would like while the tractor is slowly going over the small "mogules" just ahead, and that makes my blade rise and fall and seems to make the mogules worse.
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I'm in no hurry I've got plenty of time, and having fun doing it. Really am impressed with it so far. It's pulling up rocks and small stumps and brush all without the scarifiers down.


Sure did feel good to be outside on the tractor playing in the dirt in March of all months with the temperaure 30 degree above normal. Had to remove my sweatshirt as it was too warm.:good2:

Still a small amount of snow here and there so I am playing in the area where the sun has opened things up, and dried the ground.
 

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I'm a newbie so this is a bit of the blind leading the blind. I had the same problem. With the bumps so I practices nocking the down just the tops and filled in the valleys. As I got it smoother it became easier to level. One thing I came to appreciate was the rocker shaft speed of drop control. By slowing the drop I was able to stop just as the scraper hit and started to dig. So I did not dig new holes.

One of the forums mentioned shortening the arm so the side plates acted as a stop or depthb control so the scraper can only dig so deep (at least on firm soil). I have not had a chance to try it but it makes sense. They warned that it will wear down the front of the side panel, but I will be old and dead before that happens with my utilization. note the short top link also allows the rippers a better angle of attack.

Well that's what I know or think I know.

Best of luck and best wishes.
RoN

There are some good and bad you tube videos out there. Sorry no links
 

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Take a close look at your box blades. The front cutter edge is set appx. 3/4" lower than the rear. In order to get "smoothing" action, the front of the box blade must be tipped up. As the box blade is tipped up, the plane between the cutter edges becomes more parallel with the direction of travel. This makes it much easier to smooth loose material without a trail of moguls. With the box blade level or tipped forward, it will do what is was designed to do, DIG!
 

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To knock down the moguls and fill in the valleys, try running perpendicular to the direction of travel you're currently doing. You can switch back to the primary direction of travel once you get the rough grading work complete.

If nothing else, this will convince you to get hydraulic Top-n-Tilt, or at least the Top-link portion. I just have the Top-link portion hydraulically adjustable and it's great for making those on the fly adjustments when I'm using my rear-blade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the tips. I had a little while to work yesterday :mocking:. I even swapped the box blade out for the rear blade just to see the difference, and the box blade was definately the winner.
Thursday my next outside day I will lengthen the top arm, and see how it affects things. One thing for certain is I have a lot of rocks. When I stop for the day I toss rocks into piles for later pick up. I can imagine what I will unearth when I put the scarifiers down.

I want to build a stone wishing well this summer so I look at it as collecting stock for my next project.
If anybody has any links on how to make one out of rocks please let me know otherwise I am winging it.
 

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I'm doing some reshaping of a hill in my roadside front yard. I have found that after a while the adjustable arm screws down by itself. is there a way to lock it into place?:think: I've been using the scarfers down to pull up roots and I have found a few basketball sized rocks as well.
 

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I'm doing some reshaping of a hill in my roadside front yard. I have found that after a while the adjustable arm screws down by itself. is there a way to lock it into place?:think: I've been using the scarfers down to pull up roots and I have found a few basketball sized rocks as well.
Are you talking about the top link? If you are, there should be locking nuts on it to prevent this.
 

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Thanks, I knew it was something I wasn't doing correctly!:slap-yourself-emoti
 

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I attached a small section of chain with a clip hook on one end to the extra hole at the bottom of the leveling link. Once I get it where I want it I just clip the chain to the little handle thingy in the center of the link. this keeps it from turning on it's own. Yes the lock nut will work but you need tools for that. I found the chain method to be much more convenient.
 
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