This is my first post here so I would like to say good evening from the lower east side of New Mexico, hope everyone is havin a good un. Let me give you a little back story, I have been a mechanic for quite some time, worked a city government in Texas for quite awhile and a few dealerships and private shops before that, I consider myself in no way a professional but fairly proficient in mechanical ability and have found over the years that knowledge is power and have learned to ask as many questions as possible and I always learn something new. Working for a city government I also learned everyday there is always a new way for someone to tear something up, it is absolutely astounding. There is no exception here in New Mexico. I bought a 4010 LP tractor from a fella about 3 months ago, needed quite a bit of love as the previous owner saw no need for tach cables, seats, seals, oil changes or washing anything. After I rewired it and fixed several items it turned out to be a great running tractor but, it was an LP and thirsty so I decided to sell it. The fella I bought it from had another 4010 but a diesel and me being a glutton for punishment entered a deal with him for the diesel and some cash for the 4010 LP back.It didnt run when I picked it up, he told me the engine had a little noise in it but it was the same noise it had for the past 14 years. The engine is out of a 4020 diesel. When I got it home I checked the fluids, they looked ok???? Put a battery on it and oh how that little engined talked, it said knocka knocka knocka knocka. It as well leaked like a sieve around the injection pump and will probably need a injector line or two as it has been leaking here for a long time without being fixed. The knock get quieter the warmer the engine gets and seems to be in the top of the engine, could this somehow be a fuel related knock? I am going to put rod and main bearings in it pretty quick to see if that may be it but it just sounds way to high in the motor to be a rod or main, it sounds nothing like a wrist pin or piston slap. Where is the best place to find used sheet metal, the place in lubbock wants 550 for a hood, I thought that was a little much for used sheet metal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Poor little abused 4010!
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Clifton,
You are in over my head on this one. But that won't stop me from guessing. :laugh: Noises can sometime seem like they are coming from unrelated places, be careful. I think you are starting out in the right place. But, don't forget about the valves and the timing. Now if it were me, I would be inclined to give it a complete overhaul considering that it was rode hard. Good luck, and let us know what you find out. Oh, and welcome to our club.
Clifton,
You are in over my head on this one. But that won't stop me from guessing. :laugh: Noises can sometime seem like they are coming from unrelated places, be careful. I think you are starting out in the right place. But, don't forget about the valves and the timing. Now if it were me, I would be inclined to give it a complete overhaul considering that it was rode hard. Good luck, and let us know what you find out. Oh, and welcome to our club.
4010
It will definitely get redone, just not right now. I am hoping that rods and mains will get rid of the knock. This tractor has to have a clutch, it is adjusted all the way out and the pedal is super super light, the pto is stuck as well. They said they were changing shafts from a 540 to 1000 and it hung. I am sure the button is hung up some how. The knock and the clutch I want to get done soon so I can put the tractor to work a little and see if it is going to be worth restoring. I also doesnt have all the gears in the transmission, 3,5,7 and 8 are not working, hoping its a linkage issue.
You said the knock gets quieter when engine warms up? Usually a bearing gets louder with warm oil. I would try to isolate cylinder that is noisy by loosening fuel line at injector one cylinder at a time to see if the noise goes away entirely at one cylinder. A fuel knock should go away, a bearing knock should get quieter, but not disappear. Do you seem to have a lot of blow-by at the breather pipe? If so then you might have piston slap due to a scorched cylinder. When you say pto is stuck, does that mean it runs all the time and won't stop?
4010
The knock gets quieter when it warms up and you speed the engine up, when you slow the motor down it knocks pretty good whether its hot or cold. Number 3 cylinder is wet stacking out of the exhaust too, that tells me its not burning diesel right in that cylinder which is where the knock seems to be coming from. I am guessing the compression is either low or the injector is bad, I havent had a whole lot of time to mess with it here lately. The PTO shaft I was told was locked up because they messed the button up while changing shafts, this is not the case however. The PTO shaft is locked up and wont turn but, the PTO does not engage at all when you move the arm forward it wont load the engine at all.I bet they hung the PTO up and burned it out trying to make it work. I have to put a clutch in it so I plan to disassemble the transmission all together to figure out how in the world they tore this little tractor up. The guy I got if from is a good guy, he really is, but the way he treats his equipment pisses me off, I have to bite my tongue and turn my head.
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