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Discussion Starter #1
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While I have been enjoying my brand new 2025 R, I must say that I have been woefully disappointed by the lighting kit that comes from the factory. Deere seems awfully behind the times with these clunky filament type lights, square plastic housings, and poor output. My first thought was to bolt on a clunky aftermarket light with the brush guards but with the pricing, wiring, and work arounds required I wanted to design a better way. This is what I came up with, thoughts? Feedback?
 
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Most guys just mount LED lightbars or LED worklights from Amazon on the ROPS, there are MANY threads if you do some searching.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Most guys just mount LED lightbars or LED worklights from Amazon on the ROPS, there are MANY threads if you do some searching.
I've seen them. Great, one more thing to catch a branch on. One more thing I have to make mounts and attachments for.
 

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Swap your lights from left to right so they will be on the inside of the rops. Tie a string to your light wires and pull them up through the rops tubes, untie the strings and then tie the strings to the wires from the other light and pull them back down through the tubes. I mounted led lights on the guards I put around my factory lights.
 

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I've seen them. Great, one more thing to catch a branch on. One more thing I have to make mounts and attachments for.
Sorry for trying to help, good luck with your project :doorclose:
 

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View attachment 175282

While I have been enjoying my brand new 2025 R, I must say that I have been woefully disappointed by the lighting kit that comes from the factory. Deere seems awfully behind the times with these clunky filament type lights, square plastic housings, and poor output. My first thought was to bolt on a clunky aftermarket light with the brush guards but with the pricing, wiring, and work arounds required I wanted to design a better way. This is what I came up with, thoughts? Feedback?
Interesting idea. Lets see your prototype.
I'm not too convinced about the light output of your spot/flood singe LED combos it seems to show.
I see the number of lights needed in LED bars etc. to produce decent light and am skeptical about the output from a single 0 degree spot and 15 degree flood.
Also you are talking about a number of high power LEDS heatsinks etc. inside a small housing The power requirements (and heat dissipation requirements inside of a sealed plastic unit, unless you intend to change to a metal housing) of your design seem to be beyond the capacity of the 20ga with that supplies the current tail/flasher lights which you seem to be replacing.
 

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So this would replace the blank cover facing the front of the machine? Seems like a neat idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Interesting idea. Lets see your prototype.
I'm not too convinced about the light output of your spot/flood singe LED combos it seems to show.
I see the number of lights needed in LED bars etc. to produce decent light and am skeptical about the output from a single 0 degree spot and 15 degree flood.
Also you are talking about a number of high power LEDS heat syncs etc. inside a small housing The power requirements (and heat dissipation requirements inside of a sealed plastic unit, unless you intend to change to a metal housing) of your design seem to be beyond the capacity of the 20ga with that supplies the current tail/flasher lights which you seem to be replacing.
I've used the LEDs before, these are a 10W High Power that come mounted to a heat sync. The ones typically used in the light bars are only .3W each so they need a lot more of them. Measured temperature usually tops out around 110 degrees with the ones I've used in the past. As for the degrees, the markings are degrees off of center ahead, so the spot will likely be a 60º beam angle at 0º (straight ahead). The flood will be a 120º Beam angle that is 15º left or right of center. The idea was with the wider beam to angle it away from the seat position so you don't blind yourself when they are on. I'm going to do a prototype in PLA, the finals I'll have done either in Metal or ABS with molded in heat syncs. I won't be relying on the housing wiring to power these, the drivers only pull around 300 Ma each so with everything turned on at the same time at the most I should be drawing around 1.5 Amps at 12V. I should be able to handle that on the existing accessory plugs at the back of the tractor. I believe that circuit and wire is rated for 3 amps. As the design progresses I may add a voltage readout, USB charger, Accessory plug, etc. We will see. I'll try to post a picture that shows the output from one of the 10W LEDs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Prototype 3D Prints finished.

Picked up the 3D Printed protos today. Already see a few changes I need to make but overall and pleased with how they came out. Now I need to get my LEDs ordered through my broker in China!

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I've seen them. Great, one more thing to catch a branch on. One more thing I have to make mounts and attachments for.
My lightbar sits within the ROPS and simply bolted into the ROPS (drilled a couple small holes for the bracket.)

Haven't snagged a tree yet and I drive under and through a TON of them
 

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"I'm an architect, but I'm trying not to be on my 5 acre Vineyard outside of Kansas City."

I'm a sarcastic a__ho_e, but I'm trying real hard not to be.....You asked for input. You got input. Just move on with your plans, and keep me posted......
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Checked the fit on the proto print. The housing fits nicely, if anything a little small. The separator plate is way small, definitely needs some adjustment but I think I may have it nest inside of the housing rather than into the factory housing. Overall I'm happy with the look, factory screws worked to mount it and I think there is room enough for the drivers. I need to decide on a type of switch. The holes caused some problems in the print so I think it may work better to drill/cut them after the piece is printed. What are some switch types people have used/liked? I may change their location or angle them more toward the front as when I saw them mounted it is a bit tight in that area to access.

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