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First! I've read on here and other forum sites on the pros and mostly cons of attaching a post hole digger on the x700 series. So please lets not get into that debate again.

:focus: What I really want to know is who's done it? Real life experiences.

I'm only looking to drill 4" or 6" holes a couple feet deep, no need to get below the frost line. I was looking strong at the LandPride PD10 as it seemed perfect with only 30" augers. But then I looked at the specs which state 300 RPM PTO speed. Doesn't match well.
 

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I'm only looking to drill 4" or 6" holes a couple feet deep, no need to get below the frost line. I was looking strong at the LandPride PD10 as it seemed perfect with only 30" augers. But then I looked at the specs which state 300 RPM PTO speed. Doesn't match well.
The PD10 is Cat1, isn't the X700 Cat0?

I wouldn't worry at all about the 300 RPM PTO speed. That just means you don't have to run your engine wide-open for 540 RPM. You will just have to run your engine slower.
 

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View attachment 588433

If you only need 4”-6” holes 2’ deep this is a much easier solution - will take maybe 5 minutes per hole.
He didn't say how many he had to dig. My advice would be to see if you have some place local that rents equipment. Around here you can rent a gas powered post hole digger for around $47 / day.

post_digger.jpg
 

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I did mine the hard way. I hand dug 186 - 3 ft deep holes for my white PVC 3-Rail Ranch Fence. Now I own a post hole digger for my tractor and it sure is nicer to dig a post hole with but a pain to set up for just a few holes. DSCF3951.jpg Took a week for me to put this fence up on the place after the holes 8 ft apart the rest just snaps together. This fence is 20 years old in the picture!! My Brother in Law gave us the fence for a wedding present over 1,800 ft of it!! Sure made the place look nicer when it went up.
 

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I did mine the hard way. I hand dug 186 - 3 ft deep holes for my white PVC 3-Rail Ranch Fence. Now I own a post hole digger for my tractor and it sure is nicer to dig a post hole with but a pain to set up for just a few holes. View attachment 588449 Took a week for me to put this fence up on the place after the holes 8 ft apart the rest just snaps together. This fence is 20 years old in the picture!! My Brother in Law gave us the fence for a wedding present over 1,800 ft of it!! Sure made the place look nicer when it went up.
Wow! That was one heck of a wedding gift. That stuff is by no means cheap. I need to forward this on to my brother-in-laws and let them know they're falling way short of the bar.
 

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I did mine the hard way. I hand dug 186 - 3 ft deep holes for my white PVC 3-Rail Ranch Fence. Now I own a post hole digger for my tractor and it sure is nicer to dig a post hole with but a pain to set up for just a few holes. View attachment 588449 Took a week for me to put this fence up on the place after the holes 8 ft apart the rest just snaps together. This fence is 20 years old in the picture!! My Brother in Law gave us the fence for a wedding present over 1,800 ft of it!! Sure made the place look nicer when it went up.
Ahh - another fellow who obviously isn’t afraid of hand tools! That’s all we had growing up. Still to this day when I am working on something I grab the hand tools - like if I need to cut a board I reach for the hand saw.

The fence is beautiful! And being vinyl it looks great even after all those years. A fence like that is such a nice touch.

I worked for a millionaire++ hobby farmer once - hundreds of acres of fields all enclosed with miles and miles of split rail fence. We had 4-5 college kids hired every summer who’s only job was the trim under the fence.
 

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Wow! That was one heck of a wedding gift. That stuff is by no means cheap. I need to forward this on to my brother-in-laws and let them know they're falling way short of the bar.
He made way more money then me! He was the CEO of Heritage Vinyl Fence Products and could afford it. I used to install the stuff for a while back then it was $5.95 a ft X 1800 ft plus adds up quick. The fence has held cows up in the air before when one went over it. If it is hit at high speed the rails will pop out and can be put back in. Sometimes when real cold it can break when hit hard. Now wood personally would look like crap painted white after 20 years of doing nothing to it sitting out in full hot summer sun and hard winter cold! It is pushing $100.00 a 8ft section for materials alone now.
 

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First! I've read on here and other forum sites on the pros and mostly cons of attaching a post hole digger on the x700 series. So please lets not get into that debate again.
Why spend a kilobuck for an attachment that is clearly not designed with a lawn tractor in mind? That's twice the price of a perfectly usable TSC auger just for the privilege of a bit that is shorter by a foot. The dead weight alone is over 10% of an x739. Besides, isn't the 3ph on those machines a weird CAT 0/ CAT 1 hybrid, with CAT 1 pins, CAT 0 spacing of the arms and a CAT 0 top link?

If it's a power tool you need, buy a one man auger for like $250. For $1000, buy 4 and give the other three out as parting gifts to some friends in exchange for a little help!

Seriously, if you have enough doubts to ask on a forum about whether it will work, that should stop you right there.

Al
 

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He made way more money then me! He was the CEO of Heritage Vinyl Fence Products and could afford it. I used to install the stuff for a while back then it was $5.95 a ft X 1800 ft plus adds up quick. The fence has held cows up in the air before when one went over it. If it is hit at high speed the rails will pop out and can be put back in. Sometimes when real cold it can break when hit hard. Now wood personally would look like crap painted white after 20 years of doing nothing to it sitting out in full hot summer sun and hard winter cold! It is pushing $100.00 a 8ft section for materials alone now.
I've been finally constructing the deck, on one of our homes--the one I broke ground on 20 years ago. There have been all kinds of so-called lifetime decking products that have resulted in one class-action lawsuit after another. The PVC decking product is the only tried and proven product I know off. My first experience with it was the decking on my dock I purchased in 1992. It still looks as good today as it did back then. So, despite the crazy price of the stuff, the proven longevity has sold me. The total of the deck planking, post wraps, rim joist trim and railing for the main house deck is totaling up to $35K (excluding lumber). So it has been a pay as you go project. This'll be year four and the railing should be showing up any day. So we're seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

I'll still have the bench railing portion to do next year and I haven't decided on what exactly or how I'm going to do that. I've been leaning toward utilizing the PVC fence rails, similar or the same as yours, for the bench seat & back planks.
 

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I've been finally constructing the deck, on one of our homes--the one I broke ground on 20 years ago. There have been all kinds of so-called lifetime decking products that have resulted in one class-action lawsuit after another. The PVC decking product is the only tried and proven product I know off. My first experience with it was the decking on my dock I purchased in 1992. It still looks as good today as it did back then. So, despite the crazy price of the stuff, the proven longevity has sold me. The total of the deck planking, post wraps, rim joist trim and railing for the main house deck is totaling up to $35K (excluding lumber). So it has been a pay as you go project. This'll be year four and the railing should be showing up any day. So we're seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

I'll still have the bench railing portion to do next year and I haven't decided on what exactly or how I'm going to do that. I've been leaning toward utilizing the PVC fence rails, similar or the same as yours, for the bench seat & back planks.
Labor is expensive to waste re/doing stuff all the time over the years. Just painting this fence twice in 20 years would have made a wood fence cost more in the long run. We keep spare rails and fix them once in a while. Bulls can get carried away and tear up just about anything if they want to. I built my own 16' gates using all stainless steel hardware and it has not sagged a bit except for expansion and contraction you figure for according to the tempiture. If hot out keep in mind it will shrink some when cold and the other way around. I set my gate for a good winter latch and hot summer it still holds good. Do it the other way around the gate will lift out of the latch when it contracts. I forget how much but near a 1/4-1/2" per 16 ft full range summer to winter. I fill the posts with 2 re/bar and concrete mix dry then soak later for strong gate posts where needed. You can also fit a wood post inside for lagging into and not see the wood. I like doing things once since I took a lot of years to build our place I did not want to keep fixing stuff and not be able to keep building. Do it right the first time or pretty much your wasting money in the long run. All wood posts I use are treated Pole Barn Posts for my barb wire fence lines "H's, Line Posts and Corners 6x8 and 4x6 - 70% plus retention structural graded wood. PVC1.jpg PVC2.jpg I did some lattis on the ranch fence to keep dogs in a other outside animals out including people. The I won't ever do ony thing to this stuff again in my lifetime.
 

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Labor is expensive to waste re/doing stuff all the time over the years. Just painting this fence twice in 20 years would have made a wood fence cost more in the long run. We keep spare rails and fix them once in a while. Bulls can get carried away and tear up just about anything if they want to. I built my own 16' gates using all stainless steel hardware and it has not sagged a bit except for expansion and contraction you figure for according to the tempiture. If hot out keep in mind it will shrink some when cold and the other way around. I set my gate for a good winter latch and hot summer it still holds good. Do it the other way around the gate will lift out of the latch when it contracts. I forget how much but near a 1/4-1/2" per 16 ft full range summer to winter. I fill the posts with 2 re/bar and concrete mix dry then soak later for strong gate posts where needed. You can also fit a wood post inside for lagging into and not see the wood. I like doing things once since I took a lot of years to build our place I did not want to keep fixing stuff and not be able to keep building. Do it right the first time or pretty much your wasting money in the long run. All wood posts I use are treated Pole Barn Posts for my barb wire fence lines "H's, Line Posts and Corners 6x8 and 4x6 - 70% plus retention structural graded wood.
The proof is in the pudding. Great minds do think alike!
 

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If I remember right, my 4010 is a smaller tractor, 18.5 HP, 16 at the PTO. I run a 9" auger on it and go down in pretty rocky soil. I have bogged it down when running low rpms, but have had no issues.


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OP:

Just go rent a skidsteer with an auger attachment. You (and your back) can thank me later. :cheers:


Around here that would set me back about $400 for the weekend, including delivery.
 
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