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Any recommendations? Will be hooking up to my 4105 and using a 12" auger bit.

I assume most brands will be the same, got a local guy selling a new Tartar (county line) for 750 with 12" bit
 

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I have the County Line with 9" auger from Tractor Supply. I've used it on both the 1025R and 3320. It drills just fine in my rocky soil, as long as the auger point doesn't land directly on a rock. I keep a supply of shear bolts on hand as I usually break one every four or five holes, though only drilling at idle.

I believe I paid about $600 on sale, three years ago, and your local price seems fair enough with the larger auger.
 

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I assume most brands will be the same, got a local guy selling a new Tartar (county line) for 750 with 12" bit
Unless there is something special about that particular PHD I'd take a pass on it. Regular price on it at TSC is $599 for the PHD and $179 for the 12" auger. So for $780 you can go buy your own brand new. And TSC hands out 10% off coupons fairly often so you could easily get one for brand new for $700.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The one I mentioned above is brand new for $750.




I assume most brands will be the same, got a local guy selling a new Tartar (county line) for 750 with 12" bit
Unless there is something special about that particular PHD I'd take a pass on it. Regular price on it at TSC is $599 for the PHD and $179 for the 12" auger. So for $780 you can go buy your own brand new. And TSC hands out 10% off coupons fairly often so you could easily get one for brand new for $700.
 

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To add the one I'm looking at locally is not a Tartar (TSC)

https://smalink.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=PHD5000
Just glancing at the photo in the link you provided, the boom mount is quite a bit beefier than the TSC model (which is built by Speeco, not Tartar). The TSC model has a gusset welded to the boom and drilled with the four holes to set the boom height. The one in the photo appears to be a channel reinforced with a sleeve welded into the channel for each of the boom height holes.

I picked up a used TSC PHD and this was an obvious weak area. The ears on the boom saddle had been spread apart from what I'm guessing was the auger locking or bucking. In addition, the holes in both had become elongated, as well. This was probably from a loose fitting pin or bolt. I drilled them all out larger (I'm thinking 7/8" if I recall correctly) to remedy the elongated holes. I restored the correct ear position in a hydraulic press. I now utilize a 7/8" bolt with a nylock nut to secure the boom to the saddle. In this manner, with it snugged up, the saddle ears can't spread and the boom cannot "rock" in the saddle ears, which should prevent elongating or at least minimize it.

The design of the model you're looking at is much better and likely eliminates those issues.
 

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Have fun taking it on and off the tractor! :mocking:

Here is the PHD stand I built earlier this year to make it easier to attach it to the tractor. You can swing it into place using this method. Saves a lot of #@$# words. This is a TSC PHD, but is not from Speeco as someone mentioned. I think the different areas of the country use a different supplier for things. It has the MFG name on it, but I do not remember exactly what it is and I am not going out in the cold to see what it is.

Dave

post hole digger stand.jpg
 

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So you are saying they are easy
LOL nope. PHDs are generally the most hated implement to attach, use, and detach. I think the only reason people don't toss them off a cliff while on fire is because man handling a portable PHD sucks even more. You'll want to build something to hang it on as pictured above. Or find a good way to lay it down on something where it lines up nicely if the geometry works out.
 

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wow they must be hard to move around if someone built a stand like that... :)
 

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wow they must be hard to move around if someone built a stand like that... :)
I rented one in WI and had to get the bride to help me wrastle it on to the tractor. Rental place here had one also but I went with the mini skid mainly for reverse and after my last experience.
 
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They are a bear to put on I like the stand and was thinking of making something for mine. Right now it lays in the same spot it was a year ago after taking it off! I wished I had one for the 185 3 ft deep holes I dug for my PVC 3 Rail Ranch Fence I put in but did them all by hand in a week. Good work out too but I got it done! DSCF3951.jpg
 

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wow they must be hard to move around if someone built a stand like that... :)
I rented one in WI and had to get the bride to help me wrastle it on to the tractor. Rental place here had one also but I went with the mini skid mainly for reverse and after my last experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No way in TN with our rocky soil I'd attempt that many posts. I've done 3 or 4 here and there but 185 DOH!!!

They are a bear to put on I like the stand and was thinking of making something for mine. Right now it lays in the same spot it was a year ago after taking it off! I wished I had one for the 185 3 ft deep holes I dug for my PVC 3 Rail Ranch Fence I put in but did them all by hand in a week. Good work out too but I got it done! View attachment 664344
 
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No way in TN with our rocky soil I'd attempt that many posts. I've done 3 or 4 here and there but 185 DOH!!!
The Fence was given to me for a Wedding Present and I wanted to get it in and could not afford a posthole digger but had time on my hands to dig holes. Had to use a rock bar now and then. I got on a mission to do this and just did not stop till the fence was done. That is just me but it was a ton of holes too! Now that I have the post hole digger I have dug probley 6 holes so far on a Bull Pen were building? It got put on hold for a while when I started welding up this Bull Proof Gate out of 2" x 4" 3/16" Box Steel to bolt 2x6 to it. The whole pen will be made out of 6" x 8" pressure treated posts in concrete on 8 ft centers with 2x6s boards spiked every 16" on center. The pen will be 24' wide and 32 ft long. The Gate Posts will be treated 8X8s 4 ft in the ground to bolt the Gate to. It is a super beefy gate and wall of 2x6s to hold a bull inside when other cows are in heat on the other side! The steel for the gate was big bucks and has 2 cross rails of 2x4 box steel along with the top and bottom made of the same. Hinges are 1" dia rod steel inside heavy wall Sch 80 steel pipe welded to plates bolted thru the 8x8s with 6 - 5/8" steel bolts. You should see the latch and 2 anchor points one top and bottom. Gate is designed to slam shut and lock then you bolt it. That way you don't get kissed in the face if the bull changes it mind in the process of closing it. The walls are 6 ft tall too. Any weak point will be found may put a rail or two of steel on the sides. All the 2x6s are on the inside so pushed on they go against the post with 6 inch gaps between them. Bulls can do some real damage when they want to! There a ton of muscle and no brains! bulls.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yeah, I am second guessing myself now.

I have about 10 posts and 6 trees I want to use the PHD for... for the money I might just get some exercise
 
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Here is the PHD stand I built earlier this year to make it easier to attach it to the tractor. You can swing it into place using this method. Saves a lot of #@$# words. This is a TSC PHD, but is not from Speeco as someone mentioned. I think the different areas of the country use a different supplier for things. It has the MFG name on it, but I do not remember exactly what it is and I am not going out in the cold to see what it is.

Dave

View attachment 664274
Those stands always remind me of a guillotine or a gallows. :laugh:
 

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I've had two Speeko brand phd.
An old very worn on on my old JD 855 that took a bunch of tightening up, lube, paint and just general TLC. If I recall it was a model 65. It ran well.

The one I have now is a model 70, brand new out of the box. On the JD 2032R it also runs well.

I don't have a stand so it has been the easiest to break it down into 4 parts to put on and take off the tractor.
This isn't super whiz bang, or rocket science applied, just the easiest for me.

I'm sure there are many options on how to handle this type attachment.
My 5 cents of experience and opinion.
 
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I have about 10 posts and 6 trees I want to use the PHD for... for the money I might just get some exercise
PHDs are really pretty horrible for digging holes to plant trees. The ideal hole for a tree is at least 3 times as wide as the root ball. A plant with a 1' wide root ball should have at least 3' wide hole. The orchard local to me plants trees out of 6" and 8" containers using a 24" auger. You just can't run that kind of auger on a CAT 1 PHD in many places.
 
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