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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have experience using a post hole digger on their 1026R?

I'm getting ready to install a bunch of fence posts in heavy clay soil. I'm looking at buying a post hole digger for my 1026R.

I saw this listed at Tractor Supply Co.



I will be using a 9" auger.

Any suggestions?
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Don,

Looks to be a pretty good offering. In reading the reviews on the website, it was very much approved of and I noted someone mentioned using it with a 2305 (which your 1026r replaced). As I mentioned in another thread, this one offers some additional flexibility with boom adjustment. This can make a difference with limited 1, 3pt hitch. In addition, this is about 1/2 the cost of the Rotomec PHD 200.

And good luck in your fence experience. I am getting jealous with this post and others as some people seem to be in a position to begin spring "chores". We are still sitting on inches of snow. :empathy3:
 

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I borrowed the exact same post hole digger from a neighbor, I think it was actually 9" also, and had no issues at all with my 1026R. Plenty of power. My wife was on the tractor adjusting the 3 point while I put weight on it or guided it back into the hole. The only "issue" we had was that the 3 point was touchy and quick to react - could have been that I had the hydraulic response knob too fast.

It's a 2 man job to mount and dismount that thing though. Pain in the ...
 

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Wow great price, I just bought a used one for $400.00 to use on a 2305, have not used it yet but on the list. I do belive is a two person job to put on tractor, heavy as he!!....good luck with yours on the 1026
 

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It's not hard for one person to do, just don't assemble it entirely first on the ground, keep the parts separate and assemble on the tractor.
  1. Remove the quick hitch or imatch and the upper control arm.
  2. Attach the lower support to the lower control arms.
  3. Attach the boom pole to the lower support while resting the business end on the ground.
  4. Lift the boom pole and push the bottom end to the upper control arm link above the PTO and attach it.
  5. Attach the drive shaft at both ends.
  6. Attach the auger.
  7. CHECK THE OIL!!!
The biggest pain is the drive shaft IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It's not hard for one person to do, just don't assemble it entirely first on the ground, keep the parts separate and assemble on the tractor.
I bought the TSC hole digger and auger this morning. I bought a top link pin and bushing, but it turns out I didn't need them. The ball socket fitting on the frame of the hole digger has both Cat 1 and Cat 2 sizes. My 1026R has a CAT 1 top link.

It is heavy. I could not lift it out of the truck by myself. Using the front end loader and a block and tackle helped.



The ROP makes an excellent lift point when attaching the boom of the hole digger to the 3 point hitch.



Here it is assembled and ready to dig holes.



Nothing ever goes according to plan. My first hole and the auger gets stuck in tree roots. Engine stalls. 2 hours later and the thing is still stuck. I really need a reverse on the PTO. The thing is torqued up so tight that I can't get the PTO shaft off, and I can't get the shear pins out of the auger. Bummer!



Lesson learned.... Don't use hole digger near tree roots.
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Can you disengage the pto and turn auger w/ pipe wrench and long pipe? to free it up enough to get shear pin out, then keep going to unscrew?
 

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Yep...what fdmars said. Just to add a little more for clarity ,I think he means to disengage the "lever" ...or put the lever to "mid" pto. This should allow the rear pto to turn backwards or freewheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Can you disengage the pto and turn auger w/ pipe wrench and long pipe? to free it up enough to get shear pin out, then keep going to unscrew?
That would probably work, but it would take a much bigger pipe wrench than what I have.

I did get it free from the tree roots. It took me 3 hours of manual shovel and pick axe labor. Nothing that a double hernia operation won't cure. :)

Here are a couple of photos showing the root cause of the problem.






I had no idea there were that many tree roots under the surface. What a disaster!

Now the question is how to dig a post hole when you know there are tree roots.
 

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Now the question is how to dig a post hole when you know there are tree roots.
Borrow RGD's tractor...and post hole digger:mocking:

For starters, you are going to want to invest in that large pipe wrench...and why not pamper yourself with an aluminum one.
and raise up often...very often. Go slow, and raise up at the first sign of trouble.
 

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I did get it free from the tree roots. It took me 3 hours of manual shovel and pick axe labor. Nothing that a double hernia operation won't cure. :)

This is exactly why I was looking for a hydraulic phd, that just looks like a major pain, glad you got it out finally. Would have been nice to be able to just put it in reverse I'm sure...




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Discussion Starter #12

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For as little as you'll probably use a large pipe wrench (I know you hope anyways) ...I'd get one at Harbor Freight. Heres a link to a 48" aluminium one for around 89.00 The 36" is about 55.00
48" Aluminum Pipe Wrench

BTW....dont listen to arlen. He aint right
 

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For as little as you'll probably use a large pipe wrench (I know you hope anyways) ...I'd get one at Harbor Freight. Heres a link to a 48" aluminium one for around 89.00 The 36" is about 55.00
48" Aluminum Pipe Wrench

BTW....dont listen to arlen. He aint right
Get the shorter one and slide a pipe over the handle to save money...
 

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I've used the Post hole digger from JD, or frontier...whatever you wana call it. Mine cost a hell of a lot more then the tractor supply one. When I bought mine, it was just too easy to just add it to the loan...:unknown:

Anyway, it works well, but like it has been said, it helps to have some weight on it so having a second person helps. Especially when the teeth start to get dull. For the frontier one, there is an optional hydraulic ram that mounts to the top and pushes the auger down, but im sure that isnt cheap. Id recommend buying a few extra shear bolts while you are at the store. I put in about 90 posts with mine. I replaced the cutting teeth twice during the job.



 

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Don,

Congratulations on the PHD. I concur with the others on a need for a pipe wrench. We ran into plenty of stuck augers with all our rocks here but a pipe wrench and some jostling and we were able to back it out. As someone else mentioned, be sure to move your pro selector away from the rear pro function.

Did you go with a 48" auger?


Thanks
 

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I forgot to mention, there was a time when we got the auger suck deep in a hole on what I think was a rock. The auger bit was all the way in the ground by the time we shut off the pto. For that one we had to disconnect he drive shaft and turn it with a pry bar to back it out, no way to turn the auger itself. We just made sure to go slow and easy. If the sheer bolt had broke on that one...it would have made the day much much longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did you go with a 48" auger?
The Tractor Supply Co. website doesn't list the length of their augers. It's too dark and cold to go outside and measure it now, but I'd estimate it is 48" length for the full 9" hole diameter.

I will only be going 30" deep. I have found that gives enough support for fence posts in the heavy clay soil here. When it is dry, it can easily be mistaken for concrete. :laugh:
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I've drilled about 80 holes with my PHD. Built this dolly so it's easy to put it on and off. By having 2 support points, everything lines up to within about 1/2 inch or so and it's easy to put it back on the tractor. It also has less swaying when moving it around.

I also made a dolly for my iMatch, since it takes 3 hands to put that on the tractor. When it's easy to loose the iMatch and put on the PHD, you'll actually use it for even just one hole (vs. doing a hole by hand). I would point out that it is very important to have done 10 to 20 holes with a hand PHD so you can really appreciate having one on your tractor. :thumbup1gif:

- pete
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Built this dolly so it's easy to put it on and off. By having 2 support points, everything lines up to within about 1/2 inch or so and it's easy to put it back on the tractor.
That sure is an elegant dolly you built to install your PHD. I think it requires a smooth level surface for the casters to function.

I don't have the luxury of a concrete pad or garage floor. My tractor and accessories are outside storage so I wouldn't be able to use that design.
I found that the end of the PHD boom that connects to the upper link is light enough that I can lift it with one hand with the gearbox end sitting on the ground. I find it relatively easy to pin the upper link.
Then I tie the boom to the ROP as in the photo below to keep the boom from flopping over.



By adjusting the height of the drawbar arms hydraulically, it is not difficult to line up the drawbar link pins with the ball swivel sockets in the ends of the drawbars.
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