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The price of steel buildings went up in the last 10 years. For a small 24'x24' pole barn will be $20k. The price includes labor and taxes. The details of the barn is 12' side walls, wainscotting, 1' vent soffits, ridge vent, 26 guage high quality steel, 4' deep concrete pillars.
What is does not include doors or windows what I figured it will cost me another $5000. $1500 I will have to pay another contractor to level the land. $250 for building permit. $1000 to trench in sub panel. I'm guessing over $5000 in concrete for the floor and driveway.
So it could end up costing $35k when it is complete.
 
Looking for a prefab diy steel building that will be installed on a concrete pad. The size I'm looking for is 24'x'24' with 10' side walls.
***The hardest part is finding a company that will unload the pallets when delivered. Also easy enough to build by myself with no help. Looking for a steel frame and steel siding garage.
So does anyone know of any companies that is NOT like a versatube style building?
Check out Atlas Buildings in Alapaha, Georgia. I built a 36x60 building using a contractor they suggested for about $35k. Included 2 12x12 roll up doors and slab.
 
seems your trending away from doing it your self...but...getting the building to be engineered stamped is normal for metal building suppliers they face this more often than not, just have to give them the codes and requirements of your jurisdiction. as far as engineered footings around here there are several Professional Engineers that will do that for you for usually $250 ...worst case would be $500 if they require a soil test...

codes and code officials can be intimidating ....gets more exciting if you toss in some life safety issues like electrical ....best bet is to find a independant engineer to provide the footing design and go thru code issues with him prior to ordering building and construction ...he should be able to provide you guidance and advisement....but dont let government officials deter you if you want to do it yourself and are capable
 
I went to my county building and safety today to get my questions answered to pull a permit. I found out that I live in a real strict county. They make it almost impossible for a homeowner to pull a permit and build himself to save money. If I ordered a prefab kit it must engineer stamp by the state of Nebraska only. Plus I would need stamped plans for the 3 ft footings from somewhere else to pull a permit.

If I ordered a stick build frame kit from my local lumber yard I will still need the install OSB and house wrap before the metal sheets go up. Then pay someone else for the stamped footing plans.

After adding the extra cost to pull the permit to build myself may not be worth it. I may be saving a couple thousand dollars than hiring a local steel building company.
That sucks as it sounds more like some sort of protectionism is in play than a concern for your safety.

No regulation = anarchy.
Over regulation = tyranny.

Sane regulation = civilization.
 
The price of steel buildings went up in the last 10 years. For a small 24'x24' pole barn will be $20k. The price includes labor and taxes. The details of the barn is 12' side walls, wainscotting, 1' vent soffits, ridge vent, 26 guage high quality steel, 4' deep concrete pillars.
What is does not include doors or windows what I figured it will cost me another $5000. $1500 I will have to pay another contractor to level the land. $250 for building permit. $1000 to trench in sub panel. I'm guessing over $5000 in concrete for the floor and driveway.
So it could end up costing $35k when it is complete.

.this is a current flyer add i got today from a lumber yard...not exactly what your wanting but ....1/5th the price
 

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.this is a current flyer add i got today from a lumber yard...not exactly what your wanting but ....1/5th the price
1/5 of the price now but in 10 years one may be putting in metal piles like Tractor Tim did with his inherited pole barn. Never liked the idea of a wood buried in the ground. Maybe for a deck or shed roof but not a building. Just my 2c
 
Depends on the Grade and type of treatment. I have posts that have been in the ground here almost 25 years and they are still nice and look nice if you pull them out of the ground. In fact the 70% Pressure Treatment Graded Structural Green Posts. I only use them on my fence line corners and line post. My Barn is solid as heck been 15 years now. My wood post pole building on the coast is 30 years old and solid. Biggest problem is good treated proper posts being used. Neibors fences were done with oil treated pine poles fell over in a couple years and lots of other fences near me. Mine are 25 years old and still have tight barbwire and solid corners. Had cedar poles rot off too has to be pressure treated to last. Steel also rusts so it has to be protected too. I see your point and like a concrete foundation better to build off of. Did the little barn that way and no rot to any wood near the ground on top of the treated bottom plate. Just looked around on the net and if you ask steel people wood is bad and ask wood people and steel is bad? Sure are a lot of Docks built with wood piling drove in the ground not steel I have worked on or been near.

CCA III Treatment; http://www.ccaresearch.org/about_cca.htm

Had a Cedar Pole I put in for the service on my own trailer back in 1973 and I coated the crap out of it before putting it in the ground. One time a few years later I was looking at the service and noticed it was settling and shifting over on the pipe? Took a screwdriver and shoved it thru the pole at ground level!! Being real poor at that time and since the pole was guyed real good I was going to repair it. I took a 2" rigid steel pipe and pushed it thru the pole and blocked one end of the pipe and a jack on the other and lifted the pole up tight again. Dug out all the rotted Cedar and bolted 2 Galvanized Steel 6" wide 8 ft long sections I got for free on the sides into the pole. Then filled the hole in with Ready mix and let it set up. Pulled the 2" pipe out and trimmed up the bottom of the pole clean. That pole is stull up after over 45 years steel is a nice way to do it too! If I have a problem with my posts rotting I would just bolt steel to the post and cement them in.
 
I would imagine the rate of deterioration depends on the ground you put the wood in.
 
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All good points JD. Dock piles only rot outside of the water. Need air to rot wood. Lots of people drag old trees off the bottom of lakes that are 50+ yrs old and sell them. Believe it or not they made a TV show out of it. Steel only rusts if water gets to it and I don't know of a bug that can eat it.

It's not that I flat out don't believe in it for building, just not my main structure. I have a shed roof off the side of my steel building and used treated 6x6 as the uprights. Something to keep in mind, the old time log homes and barns last 100+ yrs but they kept the wood off the ground....
 
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I have to agree steel is better then wood. Saw that show on the old logs under water. I live is a dry area but the wood posts at my lake are in wet ground and stay nice underground better then the top part does out in the hot sun. They made some good money off them!
 
County requirements vary in VA

When I built my 58X45x21 high shed I went to the county, and told them it was an agricultural use building,,
They gave me the permit, but, since it was for AG,, there was zero requirements,, and zero inspections,,:dunno: The cost was $15 for the permit,,

The entire frame of my building is welded together,, other than the mezzanine floor, (hardwood flooring) there is not a nail in my building.

I hate to tell the cost of my building,,
other than the roll up door,, I spent less on the building than I did on the 4" thick concrete slab,, :yahoo:

I blew a wad on the roll up door,, 18 feet wide, 11 feet high,, motorized,, $5K,,, :flag_of_truce: that was more than the rest of the metal in the building,,,
Your county was on the lenient side as far as requirements. I recently met with a farmer who had to submit full erosion and sediment plans, landscaping etc. for an ag building. By the time the E & S plan and work was done, the cost of his building was up 30%.

It put a big dent in his operating capital.

Treefarmer
 
Here you have to keep what you disturb to under 1 acre of ground or you have to get the full storm water run off impact done and may have to install water gardens and swails etc to control the run off. They charge a boatload for the review and engineering. Then you have to have it completed by certified folks and pay more to make sure it meets design. You can sink 30K in just the water review and mitigation really fast.

My builder said key is timing, put in a drive and area for in-front of the building one year and disturb say .9 acres. Then come back the next year and permit the building to site with an existing drive.
 
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The price of steel buildings went up in the last 10 years. For a small 24'x24' pole barn will be $20k. The price includes labor and taxes. The details of the barn is 12' side walls, wainscotting, 1' vent soffits, ridge vent, 26 guage high quality steel, 4' deep concrete pillars.
What is does not include doors or windows what I figured it will cost me another $5000. $1500 I will have to pay another contractor to level the land. $250 for building permit. $1000 to trench in sub panel. I'm guessing over $5000 in concrete for the floor and driveway.
So it could end up costing $35k when it is complete.
That seems high but could be true. For my 40x50 metal building with 12 foot side walls and 4 in 12 pitch (right at 18') at the peak with 2 12x10 roll up doors and 2 walk thru doors was about 17k for the kit, another 3k in shipping. I spent about 13k in concrete to have it leveled/poured. I spent just at 4k for electricity. I did the framing but spent a lot on rental equipment and then spent 4k to have the insulation, sheetmetal, and walk thru doors installed. I hung the roll up doors myself.

So to recap costs for 40x50:

20k for kit and shipping
13 concrete/level ground/build forms/pour
4k electrical
4k labor to install sheetmetal/insulation/walk thru doors
2.5k in rental of lift equipment.
$125 for building permit

Concrete is expensive in NC for some reason and always has been.

Now, I did my 30x40 shop in Texas for around 23K and that included all of the above except the building permit, none is required in Texas if you are building in the county. State law. Kind of nice. If you need labor to install this, that is where you will incur a lot of cost.

You can find ways to save if you do the framing your self. I have framed a 30x40 and 40x50 by myself (with the help of my 15 year old). A 24x24 should be fairly simple to frame with a minimal crew. Where you need lots of hands is hanging the sheetmetal and insulation (if you get it).

Where you can also save a ton of money is by limiting the options you get like wainscoting, gutters, certain colors, windows etc. My building is meant to be functional and secure. So I did not get any wainscoting (although it looks nice), gutters (didn't need them in the building I built in Texas but probably should have gotten them on one side here in NC), and windows (a window is a security vulnerability) I keep my roll up doors open if I want to see what is going on outside. I probably should have only bought one walk thru door. The two roll up doors are essential for me but that is an area you can save money on as well. One thing I did not do because of cost is get interior sheet metal to enclose the walls. That makes the shop look really nice but is not cheap. I have seen people install plywood walls. Interior walls are not really needed unless you like to hang stuff on them or you need that extra barrier to the outside.

It also pays to shop around because metal building vendors are not created equal. Some are just there to soak you for a lot of money. Also consider a pole barn style, they can be somewhat cheaper per square foot and you don't have to pour the concrete right away if you are doing this in stages to manage your budget.
 
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Big;3380422 [ATTACH=CONFIG said:
714140[/ATTACH]

Very nice Big.

Could you elaborate on the interior walls please?
Material and how you tied it to the floor and red iron.
Framing?
I started with a traditional 16 oc wall with 2x4's. Lifted it up and bolted the top plate into the horizontal z purlin, and concrete anchored the bottom plate. Used 1/2" sheeting and painted. Simple and effective. Keeping stuff from damaging the insulation and gives me something to hang stuff on.

Other benefit is how rigid it makes the building adding 2x4 walls. Otherwise it's just sheet metal and insulation from the z purlin at around 7' up and the concrete floor.
 
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Thank you.

I started with a traditional 16 oc wall with 2x4's. Lifted it up and bolted the top plate into the horizontal z purlin, and concrete anchored the bottom plate.
So the top plate is sitting under and flush to the wall purlin. ?
How far did you span the bolts for the top plate?

My shop has a piece of metal along the floor, seems like the bottom plate would get fouled by that strip. I can't remember if the purlin is wider(from sheeting) than that bottom piece. Clear as mud? :laugh:
 
So the top plate is sitting under and flush to the wall purlin. ?
How far did you span the bolts for the top plate?

My shop has a piece of metal along the floor, seems like the bottom plate would get fouled by that strip. I can't remember if the purlin is wider(from sheeting) than that bottom piece. Clear as mud? :laugh:

The horizontal mid purlin is probably 8-10" on my building. There is a metal piece at the bottom that the sheeting screws to, but it's only 3" wide. The bottom wood wall plate is up against that metal strip. So there's plenty of room for the wood wall top plate to "land" under the horizontal (8"-10")l steel purlin. I attached the wall to the steel every 2' with 3/8" bolts. The bottom got concrete anchors every 2' as well.
 
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I put a 25x30 steel quanset hut up from a kit that 'Future Steel Buildings' sold. It came with an engineered drawing of the building and the necessary footings. It called for 2' footings in the drawing so I didn't have to put in the normal 4' deep footings. The point is if you go to someone who provides an engineers drawing with their building it may save you a pile of money when you apply for your building permit. Good Luck.
 
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