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Mods - not sure where this thread belongs...

We had our main gate rebuilt about two years ago and I specified that all new steel pipe be used. Long story short this fence guy (I was going to call him a jackass but that's an insult to all of the donkeys out there) bought old drill stem pipe for the rails, at least the posts were new steel.

I was going to stop the job but I agreed to let it continue if they steel brushed the rusty pipe, used Ospho, prime and then paint. Should have made him send that pipe back. All of the rails (horizontal pipe between posts) have paint flaking off, some in huge pieces and some in dime size pieces. I just spent all morning chipping and brushing rust (and then Ospho+rinsing) maybe 35 feet of pipe. At this rate I'm going to be chipping paint for days and days - there's over 150' of these rails left to chip.

Since I was thinking about buying a commercial type of pressure washer I wonder how effective this would be in stripping the rust and flaking paint off the pipe? I was trying to figure out a more effective and faster way to get the job done. Angle grinder wouldn't work due to the fence panels being welded to the rails. What about a needle scaler? I have a dual tank portable air compressor that I could power from my generator but I don't know if it would keep up with that kind of air tool.

Any other ideas?:dunno:
 

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I used my 3500 PSI 3 GPM washer to strip my old Iron I restored. The pressure will strip any loose rust and paint but if you want bare you need sand in the water. I used a attachment for mine I could stick a wand into a trash can full of sand. It sucked up the sand and mixed it at the tip and would strip stuff bare. A wire brush on a 6" angle grinder would be a work out for me to use. I have done the sand thing to 5-6 vehicles now on to the frame restores. Then Rust Convert anything left if you just pressure wash it. DSCN0936.jpg
 

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Northern Tool sells an attachment that will "inject" sand into the pressure washer stream,,

I have a friend that swears by it,, it would be better than a putty knife,,,:bigthumb:

it sucks up the sand,, so no reuse,, the sand gotta be dry,,,:flag_of_truce:
 

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Northern Tool sells an attachment that will "inject" sand into the pressure washer stream,,

I have a friend that swears by it,, it would be better than a putty knife,,,:bigthumb:

it sucks up the sand,, so no reuse,, the sand gotta be dry,,,:flag_of_truce:
It does suck up some sand!! Works great no silicon dust problems using water. Flash rust can be taken care of with a fine wire brush. Not ment to do in small lots with nice lawns!! I lay down a big blue tarp park the frame over it and work away. Later I can re/use the sand that dries in the sun on the blue tarp. You can use beach sand, play sand, silicon sand anything that it will suck up and not clog the Injector Tip. I just cut a hole in a plastic trash can lid to stick the wand inside with the sand. The lid keeps the sand dry spraying stuff. I got mine from Northern Tool a long time ago.
 

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Here' you go. I purchased the kit but haven't used it yet. Planning on using it to prepare the underside of the 62D deck for paint next time around.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200660220_200660220

Yes just like mine in the Video they leave out the guy in rain gear and a face shield for the stuff that bounces off in pockets ect at you. Trick is to stay constant in your pattern to save on sand. Your arm won't last that far back on the sprayer! I use mine grabbing with my 2nd hand a ft or so from the tip for better control. Rubber Boots, Hooded PVC Rain Coat with button up neck, good rubber gloves, and face shield. That part will get rained on from spray but you need it goggles don't work as good they fog up fast. The tip down ones you can look under it to check your work. Easy to rinse sand off it too as you work with a splash of water. You will get sand in your hair and other places but taping up your wrists and ankles helps! I hate water running down inside my sleeve into my rain gear!
 

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Heard from several people that water blasting is the way to go rather than regular air sand blasting.

I have a small hopper air type sandblaster, it is messy and very, very time consuming due to only using 125 PSI.

Have been thinking of going with the Northern tool one like Frank showed for my pressure washer. :dunno:
 

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Heard from several people that water blasting is the way to go rather than regular air sand blasting.

I have a small hopper air type sandblaster, it is messy and very, very time consuming due to only using 125 PSI.

Have been thinking of going with the Northern tool one like Frank showed for my pressure washer. :dunno:
For the big things it works good. For the small stuff I cheaped out and built a big 4x5x2 wood box cabinet with 2 pieces of steel in it. One on the back and one on the bottom. Bought some Sand Blasting gloves and put them on the box. Then used my shop vac to keep the dust down. I had a bunch tempered glass panels the same size and made a replaceable window. I used both to make my Power Wagon Restore worth $39,500.00 and able to buy my JD4044M Tractor with the money. A couple days ago I tore it apart it did the job intended. Dry air is important to keep the sand flowing on the cheap hand held units but they also work for a home owner. I wore out 3 sets of tips on my cabinet one doing it. Took 1 1/2 years to finish it about 1200 hours worth!! Dodge.jpg Power Wagon.jpg Power Wagon2.jpg This was my first paint job I have done by myself. I helped before and watched. DSCF2303.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I used my 3500 PSI 3 GPM washer to strip my old Iron I restored. The pressure will strip any loose rust and paint but if you want bare you need sand in the water. I used a attachment for mine I could stick a wand into a trash can full of sand. It sucked up the sand and mixed it at the tip and would strip stuff bare. A wire brush on a 6" angle grinder would be a work out for me to use. I have done the sand thing to 5-6 vehicles now on to the frame restores. Then Rust Convert anything left if you just pressure wash it. View attachment 692622
I’ll have to investigate wet blasting with a pressure washer but for the fence rails I just need to blast off the flaking paint, there’s no need to take it down to bare metal. I’ll wire brush it, use Ospho, etc. I’ll need to buy a pressure washer that can siphon water since this gate is 600 feet from the closest spigot.

I have a pressure pot abrasive blaster but the mixing manifold kept getting clogged up due to moisture in spite of a well designed air supply system and water separators. I bought a very large desiccant dryer but I haven’t plumbed it in yet. One project I haven’t spent time on yet was to machine a new mixing manifold for it.

Thank you one and all for the education- again! :cheers:
 

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I think if I wanted to start over with clean bare metal, Id use a liquid paint stripper, followed by and acid wash for the rust.
Check out POR15 or KBS Coatings. Once you get all the old paint off, they have a few products that will remove the rust and leave a rust resistant finish behind thats good for painting over. Using their paints would be even better, but thats up to you.

The wet blasting method seems good and all, but it uses a lot of sand, and will make a pretty big mess.
There isnt really an easy way to go about it, but if you want to avoid chemicals and all that sand, you could always get a 4.5" or larger grinder with a very coarse wire wheel and have at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This project is 2” pipe rusty fence rails with fencing panels on one side, a grinder is no use here. I’ve used POR15 before on a Jeep project, it’s okay. Not a miracle coating in spite of the claims but it’s good product.

Making a mess is not a problem since this is an entrance gate to our ranch.
 

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I kept my 3500 PSI Pressure washer on my water tender and fed it with gravity off the 2500 tank on the same level as the Washer. Worked good and did not cavidtate. Only needs 3 GPM Flow to do max. I thought Por15 just did the rust conversion undercoat but you still need to paint it as it was not a paint??
 

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I kept my 3500 PSI Pressure washer on my water tender and fed it with gravity off the 2500 tank on the same level as the Washer. Worked good and did not cavidtate. Only needs 3 GPM Flow to do max. I thought Por15 just did the rust conversion undercoat but you still need to paint it as it was not a paint??
I agree a 3500psi one would get it done. A 1500 would not. I have done equipment with a gas powered 3500psi and what it does not remove is not going to come of after you primer and paint it. I would probably primer it though because there is so many more solids in the primer and it will stick so much better.
 
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