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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

I bought a new rear blade RB2060L and it won't attach to my Imatch (although it's supposed to). The problem is the top pin on the blade won't seat down on the top hook on the Imatch. The pin is too far aft to slide all the way down into the hook. The pin cannot come forward because the frame that holds the pin hits the 2 nuts that hold the top hook of the Imatch.

It appears to me that the best fix would be to grind away about 1/4" of the frame that holds the pin so the frame and pin can come closer to the Imatch and then the pin will slide into the upper hook. Another possible solution would be to bend the frame outward on each side so it slides past the nuts and bolt heads on the Imatch. The other option would be to grind the upper hook of the Imatch to open it up more to receive the pin but that might adversely affect other implement attachment.

Has anyone else had this issue attaching the RB2060L to an Imatch? If so, how did you resolve the problem?
 

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Pic please
 

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What if you used a Cat 2 bushing up top rather than a Cat 3?
you would gain 1/8th of an inch, he would still be 1/8 too far away. it would work if it was just the cat 1 pin but I bet the bolt is same as cat 1 and the bushing is necessary to keep the bolt from compressing the frame.
how about moving the spacer/bolt to the upper hole(where the toplink normally hooks w/o imatch) and put the pin in the lower so the imatch hook can grab it?
IMHO, it would probably be easier to cut a little off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
you would gain 1/8th of an inch, he would still be 1/8 too far away. it would work if it was just the cat 1 pin but I bet the bolt is same as cat 1 and the bushing is necessary to keep the bolt from compressing the frame.
how about moving the spacer/bolt to the upper hole(where the toplink normally hooks w/o imatch) and put the pin in the lower so the imatch hook can grab it?
IMHO, it would probably be easier to cut a little off.
Scrappy,

I forgot to mention that the top pin on the rear blade is welded into the frame. Therefore, there is no good option to move the top pin up or down in the frame. When the top pin fails to seat down into the top hook of the Imatch, the two bottom pin/bushings also fail to seat down into the Imatch bottom hooks. There is no bushing on the top pin either.

If one is hooking up the RB2060L without an Imatch, you would use a pin/bushing in a hole that is drilled in the frame above the welded pin. The welded pin stays in place but would not be used. The two bottom links would use pins to attach to the draw arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Larry, I had the same issue. I trimmed about 3/8" off to clear the nuts. I used a straight edge and a 1/16" zip cutter on the side grinder. I have a shot of it on this thread; http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/implements-attachments/5629-i-match-doesnt-match.html
Doug,

Yes, my problem is exactly the same as the issue you had with your back blade. I think I'll use a sawsall with a metal cutting blade to cut off the 3/8" on each side of the RB2060L frame. This should provide enough clearance so that the top pin can properly engage the top hook on the Imatch. Thanks.

I plan to plow my driveway primarily using the back blade with the loader for fine detailing and piling. My driveway is flat so I'm going to see if I can get by without putting chains on this tractor. I kept my chains from my JD 445 just in case I needed chains for the 1026R.

Thanks to all ... you guys are great!
 

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Adamski, even though the 3/8" works fine, it would be a little more comfortable to be 1/2" trimmed off.
 
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The problem isn't the blade, it's the I-match. It seems that some of the aftermarket brands started using the adjustable top hook to fit non-standard attachments, thereby making the hitch non-standard. Deere followed the trend likely in fear of loosing sales. Major fail IMO. If you modify the blade you will just run into the same problem with other "I-match compatible" attachments. If you modify the I-match you'll never have a problem again. Remove the bolts and weld the hook in the lower position and every I-match compatible implement will fit, problem solved.

IMAG0184.jpg
 

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The problem isn't the blade, it's the I-match. It seems that some of the aftermarket brands started using the adjustable top hook to fit non-standard attachments, thereby making the hitch non-standard. Deere followed the trend likely in fear of loosing sales. Major fail IMO. If you modify the blade you will just run into the same problem with other "I-match compatible" attachments. If you modify the I-match you'll never have a problem again. Remove the bolts and weld the hook in the lower position and every I-match compatible implement will fit, problem solved.

View attachment 12947
That makes sense Interceptor. However, in my case, the back blade was the only 3PH implement with this particular issue. The snow blower, the brush mower, the ballast box, the box blade, the hitch receiver, they all fit the top pin just fine. The issue on mine was not the vertical height, it was the amount of metal that was forward of the pin. True, if the hook was further back it would grab the top pin ok, but once again, it was just the blade that was like this. I remembered the thread of your mod to your hook before I cut the bracket on the blade but the cutting was easier for me.
 

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The problem isn't the blade, it's the I-match. It seems that some of the aftermarket brands started using the adjustable top hook to fit non-standard attachments, thereby making the hitch non-standard. Deere followed the trend likely in fear of loosing sales. Major fail IMO. If you modify the blade you will just run into the same problem with other "I-match compatible" attachments. If you modify the I-match you'll never have a problem again. Remove the bolts and weld the hook in the lower position and every I-match compatible implement will fit, problem solved.

View attachment 12947
Wow, I misunderstood this thread. Thanks for the pic. It all makes sense now.

Sent via TapaTalk from a hunting blind near you. :)
 

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The issue on mine was not the vertical height, it was the amount of metal that was forward of the pin. True, if the hook was further back it would grab the top pin ok, but once again, it was just the blade that was like this.
I wasn't suggesting that the vertical height of the top hook was the issue, it's the width of the bolts that hold it on preventing the hitch from fully engaging the attachment. There was never a problem with the pre-2012 I-match hitches that have the welded hook. If you have just one attachment that doesn't fit and it's easier to modify the attachment that's fine.
 

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That's right, it is the bolts that are in the way. Fortunately in my case it was just the one implement, so far, that has given me grief. The others are wide enough at that point or the pin is forward enough to clear those bolts. At any rate, like the title of the other thread suggests, I Match Doesn't Match is true in some cases.
 

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I wasn't suggesting that the vertical height of the top hook was the issue, it's the width of the bolts that hold it on preventing the hitch from fully engaging the attachment. There was never a problem with the pre-2012 I-match hitches that have the welded hook. If you have just one attachment that doesn't fit and it's easier to modify the attachment that's fine.


I agree with Interceptor on this, while you are good for the moment at some point I would weld the hook in place and grind the sides smooth. Next attachment may not fit as well as the others. This is a case where Deere had it right to begin with and then modified it under pressure. I don't consider a quick hitch to be "quick" if you have to stop and make adjustments to fit various implements, so why even have an adjustable hook?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Guys,

Thanks for all your input. I decided to modify the rear blade by cutting a 1/2" wide x 6.5" long slice off each side of the upper frame. This provides about 3/16 inch of clearance between the rear blade frame and the Imatch's top hook mounting bolts. The RB2060L rear blade now attaches to my 2012 Imatch. Now I'm ready for that first plowable snowfall. Thanks again, guys.
 

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Your welcome Adamski. I have to agree with the welding of the hook as the more reliable approach for the long term, if you have access to a welder for this. I think we all agree that it would be too easy to make these things to one standard so you wouldn't need to figure out this kind of thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Guys,

Here's a picture of the (unpainted) modification.
 

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Is your mod going to work with the cut edge not going further down to allow the hook to go further in between the plates before you lift the hitch?


Does that make sense?:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Is your mod going to work with the cut edge not going further down to allow the hook to go further in between the plates before you lift the hitch? Does that make sense?:lol:
Jason,

Yes, I double-checked it today and the cutout works perfectly. The rear blade upper frame does not contact the Imatch bolt heads or nuts.

I also would note that when hooking up the rear blade (RB2060L), I need to have the Imatch latches unlocked to allow the light-weight blade to settle into the bottom hooks. It seems that the blade is not heavy enough to push the latches forward as the Imatch is raised and the blade raises off the ground.
 
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Jason,

Yes, I double-checked it today and the cutout works perfectly. The rear blade upper frame does not contact the Imatch bolt heads or nuts.

I also would note that when hooking up the rear blade (RB2060L), I need to have the Imatch latches unlocked to allow the light-weight blade to settle into the bottom hooks. It seems that the blade is not heavy enough to push the latches forward as the Imatch is raised and the blade raises off the ground.
I noticed the same thing with mine Adamski. It is a light implement.
 
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