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Discussion Starter #1
I will be working with the 1025r close to some tree and limb cutting that are in peoples yards.

I have been cutting trees for more than 50 years (weekend lumber jack :laugh: ) and I know what the risks are.

Question: I would like to add a protective cage in case a branch falls my way. Maybe connect to the roll bar. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance
 

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People have made branch lifters which are basically bars that run at an angle to the front connecting to a brush guard or something else.

Someone will have a photo as I have seen them on here before. However I would be nowhere near any cutting activity. No way to protect from all the possibilities.
 

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If the overhead hazard is active tree work you need to look at local safety laws even if your not getting paid. A tree service would lose its license immediately here if they allow anyone under an overhead hazard that isn’t absolutely required as part of the overhead work. Even the tree crew itself can’t work underneath unless there are no other options.
 

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A few sections of box tubing, some screening and a welder and you can be in business.
 

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If you search for the term "FOPS" (Falling Object Protective Structure) on here and Google you'll get some ideas.
 

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A few sections of box tubing, some screening and a welder and you can be in business.
I like that cab easy to convert for winter use closing it in. I made my own so it could be removed easy and just break the weather. My heater will keep it nice when plowing snow. Mine won't hold up falling trees but the Lexan and Kydex being as light as it is still supper strong for sharp sticks and such of branches. Just put my "add on" Lexan Lower Wind Breaks near the seat and rear window with wiper also on for winter. 100_1698.JPG
 

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If you search for the term "FOPS" (Falling Object Protective Structure) on here and Google you'll get some ideas.
.

"I don't want Fops gol dern it, ...I'm a Dapper Dan man!"

"...and I like the smell of my hair treatment. The pleasin' odor's half the point."

Ulysses Everett McGill
 

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Whatever structure you add, try to keep it light. A larger (normal sized) tractor can tolerate a beefy structure without significantly affecting stability. Not the case on these little SCUT tractors. Wether or not you notice the diminished stability will depend upon how you use the tractor.

My property is all on a slope that ranges between 10% and 50%+, with a few flat areas. Stability is always on my mind. I would add double the weight of the new structure to the wheels in the form of fluid filled tires or wheel weights to help bring the stability back to normal.
 

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I’d think you could do something like this. Take some DOM tubing and weld a horizontal flat plate to it. Then use Ken’s 2x ROPS clamps and 2x ballast weight clamps per side for the front guard to attach it. You want the plate horizontal so it’ll bolt up to the clamps and have two, grade 8+ bolts instead of one. Then use a down brace close to the cab, to prevent all out collapse, and run to the bolt hole on the loader mount if you have one.

Weld in cross braces above your head so it doesn’t come in on you and maybe some mesh wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If the overhead hazard is active tree work you need to look at local safety laws even if your not getting paid. A tree service would lose its license immediately here if they allow anyone under an overhead hazard that isn’t absolutely required as part of the overhead work. Even the tree crew itself can’t work underneath unless there are no other options.
Agreed . . . but sometimes a tree can swing in totally unexpected ways so I prefer being prepared rather than sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I like that cab easy to convert for winter use closing it in. I made my own so it could be removed easy and just break the weather. My heater will keep it nice when plowing snow. Mine won't hold up falling trees but the Lexan and Kydex being as light as it is still supper strong for sharp sticks and such of branches. Just put my "add on" Lexan Lower Wind Breaks near the seat and rear window with wiper also on for winter. View attachment 708352
Do you have close ups of attachment points

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I’d think you could do something like this. Take some DOM tubing and weld a horizontal flat plate to it. Then use Ken’s 2x ROPS clamps and 2x ballast weight clamps per side for the front guard to attach it. You want the plate horizontal so it’ll bolt up to the clamps and have two, grade 8+ bolts instead of one. Then use a down brace close to the cab, to prevent all out collapse, and run to the bolt hole on the loader mount if you have one.

Weld in cross braces above your head so it doesn’t come in on you and maybe some mesh wire.
I like the looks . . . great design and suggestions re the ROPS and clamps!
 

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Theres 2 main outfits for orchard type cabs....mostly for 5 series and up that I've seen in person

Key dollar is one...above, I forget the other.

They are low and tight.

Look in to vinyard /orchard...type stuff & you may find something....there not cheap.
 

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Do you have close ups of attachment points

Thanks
I did a write up on installing the cab on my 4044M. It bolts onto the Roll Bar at the rear using existing holes at hinge and on the floor area in front of the pedals where the steel brackets are under the tractor floor. 2 points on each side also for a total of 8 point of attachment. Look in the archives under "Flex Cab" should come up. I just hate typing stuff. Fingers are not the best for doing that.

Here is some on it; Added a Rear Window and Wiper to my Flex Cab I made.https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/large-frame-compact-utility-tractors-lcut/183020-added-rear-window-wiper-my-flex-factory-cab-equipped-i-made.html
 

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Discussion Starter #17

Theres 2 main outfits for orchard type cabs....mostly for 5 series and up that I've seen in person

Key dollar is one...above, I forget the other.

They are low and tight.

Look in to vinyard /orchard...type stuff & you may find something....there not cheap.
Excellent suggestion

THANKS
 
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