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Would like some help and reassurance I'm doing the right thing. Scenario is this, Cutting grass with MMM and PTO cuts off. Check temps, retry PTO switch, nothing. Move tractor to driveway, check GTT and get some ideas. Go back, jiggle wires, tap solenoid, and now it blows the 10A fuse. Dash switch seems fine, behaves as I expect, and when I disconnect the solenoid, I get PTO Coil error on the display when I try to engage it, but at least it's not blowing the fuse.
After not getting a call back from my dealer, (I get it, they're busy) and not finding one in stock closer than NC, I go ahead and order the part from GFP(nice site!). Interestingly, the part LVA15556, which is ~150, has been replaced(?) by a part that is ~820 dollars?!?!?! Anyone know why the discrepancy?
So I got around to attempting to remove the pto solenoid, and by gawsh, it's hard to do. I was able to remove the outboard 3mm hex bolt, but the inboard is causing me grief. I have been unable to locate a 1/4" drive 3mmHex socket, 3/8" won't quite fit, and I tried a regular long 3mm hex wrench, but it twists too much given its length and snaps out of the bolt, (damaging it a bit, so I've given up on that).
I guess I'm asking for two things here; am I on the right track with the PTO Coil/Solenoid bit, and what's the best way to get that inboard 3mm Hex bolt out? (I guess since it's already bad PB Blaster can't hurt it?) Oh, and can I use just any old machine screw to replace the one I'm certain to destroy trying to remove?
 

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3 mm socket

Would like some help and reassurance I'm doing the right thing. Scenario is this, Cutting grass with MMM and PTO cuts off. Check temps, retry PTO switch, nothing. Move tractor to driveway, check GTT and get some ideas. Go back, jiggle wires, tap solenoid, and now it blows the 10A fuse. Dash switch seems fine, behaves as I expect, and when I disconnect the solenoid, I get PTO Coil error on the display when I try to engage it, but at least it's not blowing the fuse.
After not getting a call back from my dealer, (I get it, they're busy) and not finding one in stock closer than NC, I go ahead and order the part from GFP(nice site!). Interestingly, the part LVA15556, which is ~150, has been replaced(?) by a part that is ~820 dollars?!?!?! Anyone know why the discrepancy?
So I got around to attempting to remove the pto solenoid, and by gawsh, it's hard to do. I was able to remove the outboard 3mm hex bolt, but the inboard is causing me grief. I have been unable to locate a 1/4" drive 3mmHex socket, 3/8" won't quite fit, and I tried a regular long 3mm hex wrench, but it twists too much given its length and snaps out of the bolt, (damaging it a bit, so I've given up on that).
I guess I'm asking for two things here; am I on the right track with the PTO Coil/Solenoid bit, and what's the best way to get that inboard 3mm Hex bolt out? (I guess since it's already bad PB Blaster can't hurt it?) Oh, and can I use just any old machine screw to replace the one I'm certain to destroy trying to remove?
3 MM sockets are certainly available but it might not be local. A quick check on the net showed several sites including Grainger and this one- http://www.aliexpress.com/popular/3mm-socket-wrench.html .

Depending on available access you might be able to cut a slot in the head and use a regular screwdriver, or drive a smaller socket on (if the backing material will stand the impact or cut or bend a wrench to fit. I've done both and have a really unusual shaped wrench that fit cylinder bars on a combine. I've never found another use of it but for that use, it couldn't be beat!

Treefarmer
 

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Here is the test procedure for the PTO coil. It does sound like you may have a coil shorting out. I would check it with an ohm meter to see if the resistance is out of spec. Also check each coil terminal to the case of the housing. If you have any reading to the housing, the coil is shorted out.
Concerning removing the inboard 3mm socket head screw, I would use a good quality standard "L" 3mm allen wrench or a long allen socket. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1363-8-Inch-Socket-Metric/dp/B001NT2LK4/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=410WaqQ3r7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&psc=1&refRID=40FHGZ621PP3DGBKCB5M

Securely engage the long leg of the allen wrench into the screw. Be sure to clean all the dirt out of the allen socket so you get good allen wrench engagement.
Take a box end wrench and place the box end over the short end of the allen wrench. Using the box end wrench as a lever, use the wrench to place the twisting force on the allen wrench being careful to twist while applying some force toward the screw to keep the allen wrench engaged.
If you are having trouble with the screw not wanting to loosen, try aligning a punch over the head of the screw and tap it. Careful to not tap to hard. Sometimes tapping on the head of a stuck bolt will cause it to loosen.

Good luck :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Big thanks Ray. If I didn't need a solenoid before, I need one now after breaking off the plug boot. Learning lots about my tractor as I've had to pull the seat and LR wheel as I try and remove that inboard hex bolt. Rounded a brand new Craftsman T Wrench, regular "L"s have destroyed what remains of the bolt. Broke the boot on the end of the solenoid to try and get a little more room to work, all to no luck. On the bright side the wife came out to the shop and said I needed to get AC in there! Still waiting on the replacement part, and hopefully by tomorrow after work the Allen wrench I've JB welded onto the bolt will be set up and I'll be able to get that thing out. Sigh..

Here is the test procedure for the PTO coil. It does sound like you may have a coil shorting out. I would check it with an ohm meter to see if the resistance is out of spec. Also check each coil terminal to the case of the housing. If you have any reading to the housing, the coil is shorted out.
Concerning removing the inboard 3mm socket head screw, I would use a good quality standard "L" 3mm allen wrench or a long allen socket. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1363-8-Inch-Socket-Metric/dp/B001NT2LK4/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=410WaqQ3r7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&psc=1&refRID=40FHGZ621PP3DGBKCB5M

Securely engage the long leg of the allen wrench into the screw. Be sure to clean all the dirt out of the allen socket so you get good allen wrench engagement.
Take a box end wrench and place the box end over the short end of the allen wrench. Using the box end wrench as a lever, use the wrench to place the twisting force on the allen wrench being careful to twist while applying some force toward the screw to keep the allen wrench engaged.
If you are having trouble with the screw not wanting to loosen, try aligning a punch over the head of the screw and tap it. Careful to not tap to hard. Sometimes tapping on the head of a stuck bolt will cause it to loosen.

Good luck :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
JBWeld JBWont

No joy this evening trying to remove the 3mm hex, er, I mean 3.5mm round bolt. The JBWeld just broke. I don't know that I'll be able to get at it any better without tearing down the hydraulic lines, so I'm pretty lost. Of course I can't find any of my screw extractors, (generally junk imo, but I'm willing to try anything). So tomorrow is a trip to town to find extractors, if that doesn't work, maybe left handed bits, OR the sawzall. I'll probably and try to cut a slot into the bolt head, but don't have much confidence I can reach it, so I may be sawzalling the solenoid itself off. ((PLEASE SOMEONE STOP ME FROM DOING THAT!!!))
 

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Can you post a picture?
I've had great luck with left hand bits, and square extractors.
 

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How about using a die grinder with a grinding wheel chucked (can use a carbide cutter although socket head cap screws are grade 9 so they are pretty hard. The carbide cutter will cut it although it won't last real long). Grind the head of the socket head set screw off, remove the solenoid and then get a hold of the remaining screw with a vise grip.
Just a thought, although, it is really hard to give ideas without seeing the problem. Pictures!!!!
https://www.google.com/search?q=die+grinder&biw=1244&bih=715&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjfrtOv4cXOAhVBM48KHdSrBAIQsAQIQA
 

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Beaten into submission!

Went out this evening after putting the kids to bed, and took another crack at it, and brought my phone along to get some pics. Pounded a 5/16"s nut driver onto the end of an extractor so that I could stick something that would work into the chuck of my drill. That didn't get it so I tried pounding a T20 torx into it, that didn't work, SO, I decided that maybe I could slap knock the head off the thing using a punch and 5lbs hammer. That sorta worked, bent my punch, so I thought that I would just try and sacrifice a long handled phillips head screwdriver. I hit it once, and noticed the head move!!! Back to driving in the T20 torx, and I was able to get it out. I don't know if you can tell, but the stripped bolt has a bit of a bend in it, too far down I think to have been from my whacking it, but I don't know, just glad it's out, and ticked at myself for not ordering replacements when I ordered the new solenoid. Maybe I can cut grass, er, hay, this weekend, sheesh. Big thanks for the ideas and help!!. (Sorry, this newb hasn't figured out how to rotate the attachment, looks good from my house, but seems it's 90 degrees off on the post preview:unknown:)
 

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Glad you got it out finally :bigthumb:
 

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Nothing like the sweet smell of success! :good2:
 

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pto Resistance

Here is the test procedure for the PTO coil. It does sound like you may have a coil shorting out. I would check it with an ohm meter to see if the resistance is out of spec. Also check each coil terminal to the case of the housing. If you have any reading to the housing, the coil is shorted out.
Concerning removing the inboard 3mm socket head screw, I would use a good quality standard "L" 3mm allen wrench or a long allen socket. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1363-8-Inch-Socket-Metric/dp/B001NT2LK4/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=410WaqQ3r7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&psc=1&refRID=40FHGZ621PP3DGBKCB5M

Securely engage the long leg of the allen wrench into the screw. Be sure to clean all the dirt out of the allen socket so you get good allen wrench engagement.
Take a box end wrench and place the box end over the short end of the allen wrench. Using the box end wrench as a lever, use the wrench to place the twisting force on the allen wrench being careful to twist while applying some force toward the screw to keep the allen wrench engaged.
If you are having trouble with the screw not wanting to loosen, try aligning a punch over the head of the screw and tap it. Careful to not tap to hard. Sometimes tapping on the head of a stuck bolt will cause it to loosen.

Good luck :bigthumb:

So I came across this thread after receiving "PTO coil fault" and measured the resistance of my solenoid it jumps from 4 ohms then up to 27 and even higher numbers. is this an indication that the coil is bad? I dont want to purchase a new one and this not being the issue.

Just bought this of a guy who only has 26 hours on the tractor and is a 2012 1026r. having a hard time grasping the fact that it failed with such little use.
 

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So I came across this thread after receiving "PTO coil fault" and measured the resistance of my solenoid it jumps from 4 ohms then up to 27 and even higher numbers. is this an indication that the coil is bad? I dont want to purchase a new one and this not being the issue.

Just bought this of a guy who only has 26 hours on the tractor and is a 2012 1026r. having a hard time grasping the fact that it failed with such little use.
Did you check the resistance between the terminals and the case? The reading should be infinite between each of the terminals and the solenoid case.
The fact that the solenoid resistance is "climbing" when checking the resistance is not a good thing. Surely seems like the coil may be bad, but!!!
Does the solenoid engage the PTO at all?

Because there are many sensors that come into play to engage the PTO, be sure none of the other sensors are causing the problem before jumping to replace the PTO solenoid, especially since there aren't many hours on the tractor.

The PTO circuit is not just a voltage on or off circuit. The circuit actually ramps up the current (milliamps) to the coil when it is engaging. The solenoid doesn't just slam open.

See theory of operation and wiring diagram below.
 

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When I engage the PTO switch by the steering wheel nothing happens it just reads "pto coil fault". when measuring the resistance i did measure each terminal to the solenoid casing but im not receiving any reading. I'm going to borrow a better multi meter and double check it. when i measure the resistance between the two terminals the resistance just continuously jumps around. what other sensors do you suggest checking?
 
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