[r_cast]

Purchasing a 955 with loader/forks and 72" mid-mower, looking for right size trailer

Hi all,

My name is Rodney. I am currently moving from Michigan to North Carolina to care for my 3 grandchildren and, God-willing, purchase a small farm. I am in the process of purchasing a 1995 955 w/loader, forks, and 72" mid mount mower deck. Haven't owned a truck for a few years so I am seeking advice on some of the more cost effective ways to transport. I would like to find an older vehicle (suv preferably since I care for my 3 grandchildren during the day), trustworthy and fair priced that will meet these needs, plus I am needing a trailer that will haul the tractor and maybe have a side gate for my quad and/or a tilling implement without causing me to buy a superduty to haul it —unless that is the only option.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rodney


"Two mysterious people live in my house. Somebody & nobody. Somebody did it & nobody knows who." — Avinash Wandre

 

[r_cast]

This is what I would like to use. Just not certain if it can handle it.

82X14 Single Axle Utility Trailer with LED Light and Radial Tires - Aluminum
FEATURES OF THIS 82X14 SINGLE AXLE UTILITY TRAILER
Color is Aluminum
Angle Aluminum Extrusion Lower Frame and Crossmembers
Rectangular Aluminum Tube Uprights and Top Rail - 14" Tall
Channel Aluminum Tongue with Cross Brace
2" A-frame Posi Lock Coupler with Dual Safety Chains
2000lb Swivel-Style Jack
2X8 Treated Wood Flooring
0.060 Aluminum Fenders
D-rings
2900lb Idler Axle with EZ Lube Hubs
15" Radial Tires with White Mod Wheels
54" Long Lay-Down Ramp Gate with Spring Loaded J-hooks
Bi-fold Side Gate Ramp
Spare Tire Mount
Full DOT Compliant, LED Lighting
GVWR 2990 lbs

 

[56FordGuy]

Rodney, :wgtt:

As for trailers, I'd forget any type of single axle trailer. Your tractor with the loader and mower weighs in the neighborhood of 3,000 lbs, and if you plan on hauling anything with it like a rear implement or the ATV you need to allow for that weight as well. Your trailer needs to be rated for that weight, along with the weight of the trailer itself. If you have a 3,500 lb load and the trailer weighs 1,500 lbs empty then the trailer needs to be rated for at least 5,000 lbs. Pretty much every trailer in that range will be a dual axle rated at 7,000 lbs. Almost all of them come with brakes on one axle, but it's worth finding one that has brakes on both. The dual axle will also be more stable while towing. A 16' would be a good choice, very common and will allow you enough room to position the tractor for the correct weight balance. Personally I don't like the utility trailers with side rails like you posted. I find the rails get in the way, and aren't strong enough to secure a load to. The next choice is deckover or in between the wheels. Deckovers are much more versatile with no fenders to get in the way, and easier to maneuver because they're narrower. A 7x16 on an in between the wheels style is actually about 8 feet wide due to the fenders sticking out on both sides. The downside is they're a little taller, and the center of gravity is higher than a lowboy.

I think a 7x16, 7,000 lb trailer might be a good fit for you, along with a tow vehicle rated for that much.

 

[ddinham]

That single axle trailer will not do the job for you. Single axle trailers are rated for 3500 GVWR (gross weight) not allowing enough capacity for the over 3000lbs you will be hauling after factoring the empty weight of the trailer. I went through this already with the JD 1025R that I had. I upgraded to a tandem axle 20ft 7000lb GVWR aluminum trailer which still only allowed me about 5500lbs capacity. If it had been a steel trailer, it would have lowered the capacity to around 4500lbs, not much more than you will need for your job. Trailers over 3500# are required to have brakes, which will require you to have a brake controller on your tow vehicle. Two people recently have told me they thought that the brakes automatically worked if you could plug the trailer wiring into the tow vehicle. NOT True. If you buy a used trailer, make sure the brakes work and that it has good tires, plus a good spare tire.

As for a tow vehicle, if you want a SUV, you will need to get a big SUV that is based on a truck chassis. My daughter and son-in-law recently purchased a 2WD Ford Expedition with a 9000lb towing capacity and that would work fine for you to both haul people and tow a trailer. You could also get a crew cab pickup to tow with. They have 4 doors and haul nearly as many people as a SUV, plus they have a bed to haul stuff. I do not see the need to get into the heavy duty tow vehicles for your size load, such as a 3/4 ton or 1 ton pickup. Just make sure it has the tow package with trailer wiring connections and a trailer brake controller. These can be added as an aftermarket item.

Dave

 

[5304]

:wgtt:

I agree with Blake. Good luck with your new tractor and farm! :greentractorride:

 

[JKR]

I agree with the other not to get a single axle trailer. You need a duel wheel trailer with electric brakes and a brake controller. A 7 or 8 foot wide and 20 feet long. You will need the room. later on down the road you my be adding a rotary cutter with your loader and that will take up all the 20 foot trailer.

As for the truck a large Chevy Suburban with work or a 4 door Chevy or Ford 2500 or 3500 truck. Lots of room in those trucks for people. Plus you will have a truck bed that I'm sure you will need later on.

Remember to get the brake controller on what ever you get.

 

[coaltrain]

Is this just for a single move from MI to TN? Or will you be regularly hauling your tractor around in TN?

If just for a single move I can't see the expense of a trailer plus a heavy enough of a vehicle to tow it - a typical SUV isn't going to do it. If this is the case and you need just the single move I would look into having it hauled on a place like U-Ship

 

[Tenderfoot]

There are also “hotshots” who will move this for you. If a one time move that may be the most cost effective

 

[Treefarmer]

Rodney, :wgtt:

As for trailers, I'd forget any type of single axle trailer. Your tractor with the loader and mower weighs in the neighborhood of 3,000 lbs, and if you plan on hauling anything with it like a rear implement or the ATV you need to allow for that weight as well. Your trailer needs to be rated for that weight, along with the weight of the trailer itself. If you have a 3,500 lb load and the trailer weighs 1,500 lbs empty then the trailer needs to be rated for at least 5,000 lbs. Pretty much every trailer in that range will be a dual axle rated at 7,000 lbs. Almost all of them come with brakes on one axle, but it's worth finding one that has brakes on both. The dual axle will also be more stable while towing. A 16' would be a good choice, very common and will allow you enough room to position the tractor for the correct weight balance. Personally I don't like the utility trailers with side rails like you posted. I find the rails get in the way, and aren't strong enough to secure a load to. The next choice is deckover or in between the wheels. Deckovers are much more versatile with no fenders to get in the way, and easier to maneuver because they're narrower. A 7x16 on an in between the wheels style is actually about 8 feet wide due to the fenders sticking out on both sides. The downside is they're a little taller, and the center of gravity is higher than a lowboy.

I think a 7x16, 7,000 lb trailer might be a good fit for you, along with a tow vehicle rated for that much.

I have a 790 and a 7x16, 7,000 lb between the wheel trailer and agree with much of the above. I have wished many times that the trailer was 18' as I normally have the loader and either a rear blade or box blade on the tractor. That doesn't allow much wiggle room for balancing the weight on the 16' trailer. I can gain some flexibility by dropping the bucket and letting it sit under the loader arms but still an 18' trailer would be better.

7,000 lb gross is fine. The other issue is fold up or pull out ramps. Fold up is easier, pull out gives a bit more flexibility. I agree on dual axles and both with brakes if at all possible. I've blown a tire while trailering and it really wasn't an issue with dual axles but would have been more exciting on a single axle trailer.

If you aren't going to need the trailer at your new home, save some cash and pay to have the tractor moved for you.

 

[theduke]

After 7 years...I'm guessing they moved already
Grandkids are in college...yada yada

 

[Treefarmer]

After 7 years...I'm guessing they moved already
Grandkids are in college...yada yada

I'm bad about not checking dates on old posts. Something in the thread pops up as new and I just fall right in. . . Ooops.