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2017 X580 48A deck & 44 snowblower
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There is a lot of info online about this modification and a few different recipes to do it. But more specifically has anyone here done this on 44/47 blower on x300/x500 series and If so any tips on how you did it? Might be a good time of year to revive this topic as the first snow looms… I have a X580 with 44 blower and a new gravel laneway. The lane will be paved in the spring, we are letting it settle for a winter before asphalt goes on. So this will be one winter mod for me to hopefully keep too many stones from shredding the inside of my blower and getting all over the lawn. Anyone done this little trick successfully?
 

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I'm not sure what this will accomplish?
Can you simply lower your "shoes" thus raising the cutting edge? This would leave a small amount of snow and create a hardpack making future snow removal very easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not sure what this will accomplish?
Can you simply lower your "shoes" thus raising the cutting edge? This would leave a small amount of snow and create a hardpack making future snow removal very easy.
Good point. What happens in my experience until you have a hard frozen pack built the skid shoes will sink and dig in matter how high you have them. That lowers the cut edge down and coupled with the forward angle of the cutting edge pulls the stones in. Biggest issue is the first couple snowfalls or after a mid season thaw. You end up making a mess no matter what you do. From what I see on youtube etc. the pipe over the cutting edge creates a rounded surface that pushes the stones down rather than drawing them up into the blower and helps create a hard pack pack. The pipe takes some or most of the weight to help the blower float and the shoes not to dig into the unfrozen surface. You are right once it firms up you could take the pipe off. Just looked to be a simple trick that made sense in principle anyhow so was curious if anyone had done it with my specific blower.
 

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Looking at the ilustration of the blower, it would seem helpful to slit the PVC so the tube can slide over the cutting edge far enough that perhaps the entire cutting edge is inside the PVC pipe. Basically, slit the pipe the least you have to in order to be able to spread the cut in the PVC to get it over the cutting edge. This can be tricky because based upon the density of the tubing, it might be harder to spread the PVC to slide it back over the cutting edge far enough to wedge the PVC into place.

Obviously, Its best the tension of the PVC clamp the tube onto the cutting edge to hold it in place verses the tube cut being too large the PVC rattles around on the blower edge. Once you cut the PVC slit and slide it on the SB cutting edge, set the blower weight onto the PVC to make sure the weight of the blower doesn't break the pipe and cause it to come off.
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Also, if you can get the length of the PVC so its tight against the blower end housings inside the blower and doesn't shift side to side, its also less likely to come off or get damaged. You might find cutting the ends of the PVC at an angle, to help slide the PVC over the cutting edge and push it back so the top edge of the PVC is tight against the SB cutting edge and the ends of the PVC are wedged against the housing on the inside of the blower. It would likely help hold the PVC in place if you can slide the cut over the cutting edge to the diameter of the tube allows the top edge of the cutting edge to help hold the PVC in place.

I would also make sure to lift the blower before you do any backing with the blower down as it would likely pull the PVC forward and off the cutting edge. The cutting edge is nearly flat on many of the blowers so lifting the blower when backing is highly encouraged so its not pulling the PVC forward on the cutting edge and towards the augers, etc.

Make sure to post pictures when you are done with the install..........Here is a look at the inside area where the cutting edge and blower end panels meet.

Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Engineering
 

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I suspect that the cold temps would make the PVC brittle and it would quickly suffer an impact which would break it. But I may be wrong?
 

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Dr M, Yes on getting brittle, BUT!
'Impact" is not that critical as snow blowing is not performed at full speed and the entire width of the blower is supported, so pounds per inch on the pvc is greatly reduced and reducing any "impact" load. This modification has been done many times and is a better solution for NOT throwing gravel onto your lawn... or damaging the finish or the impeller on your blower. Bob
 

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Use some 2 inch HDPE pipe. high density polyethylene. That wont get brittle it is very robust. If anyone you know deals with natural gas pipeline they can find you some. 2 inch electrical conduit might be polyethylene also. I am sure a search will turn up something
 

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If you have a HEAT GUN you can use that to soften the PVC pipe at the slit and the pipe will open to the thickness of the scrapper bar. Use a 2x4 to keep the Pipe straight while pushing the pipe on the unit. Plus the pipe will be hot to the touch but cools with in seconds. You can pick up a cheap heat gun at big box store for about $20.00. I bend my PVC with a heat gun all the time and don't use fittings for many of my bends. As for getting brittle in cold weather I have had my PVC plumbing to my veggie garden for years and it is just fine. I live in Upstate NY, very cold and very snowy.
 

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What I did when I had a stone driveway was the first few snows that were a couple of inches was to drive my vehicle up and down the width of it and pack the snow into the stone to make a base.
As far as using pvc, it works and doesn't get brittle. I've used pvc the last couple of years on my 45 loader bucket to remove snow on my blacktop driveway. I've even used down pressure on the bucket and no problems with the pvc or marks in the blacktop. So no big deal on your blower.
 

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PVC does in fact get brittle in cold temperatures. But what this means is that if you laid a length of pvc on your concrete or asphalt driveway in the summer at 110+ degrees, hit it with a 20 lb. sledge, it may dent, but most likely not crack or break. Repeat this is the winter when its zero, and it will probably crack/break.

What all of the above means is that if you're full throttle & full speed ahead and hit a tree or stone sticking a foot out of the ground, the pvc will probably bend in the summer, but break in the winter! During both seasons your blower housing or whatever the pvc is on WILL be bent/damaged. But not to worry, you can figure out how to repair it on the way to the hospital with 6 or 8 broken ribs. Bob
 
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2017 X580 48A deck & 44 snowblower
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
PVC does in fact get brittle in cold temperatures. But what this means is that if you laid a length of pvc on your concrete or asphalt driveway in the summer at 110+ degrees, hit it with a 20 lb. sledge, it may dent, but most likely not crack or break. Repeat this is the winter when its zero, and it will probably crack/break.

What all of the above means is that if you're full throttle & full speed ahead and hit a tree or stone sticking a foot out of the ground, the pvc will probably bend in the summer, but break in the winter! During both seasons your blower housing or whatever the pvc is on WILL be bent/damaged. But not to worry, you can figure out how to repair it on the way to the hospital with 6 or 8 broken ribs. Bob



Well I’ll make sure to buckle up and keep the speed down. Blower put on today, oil change, grease and a foam bath. Going to tackle the pvc cut edge soon and then ready for snow hopefully!
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Plant
 
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