Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I found a Category 1 Quick hitch locally and the guy is dumping it for $60. I was going to jump on this but want to be sure it will work with my 1025R. Any 3pt attachment should work so shouldn't any 3pt quick hitch work also? It is a category 1. Like new, but it came off of a Kubota. Seller says it is about 28 inches between hooks and the lower pin size is 7/8" I am very new to the tractor scene and haven't had much garage time with my Deere yet.

Alsooo I am on the look out for good deals on a 54" quick attach snowblower. I also found someone locally selling a 1023E with the blower attachment. My question is would that 54" snowblower on a 2008 1023E work on my 2017 1025R?? I don't see why it wouldn't?

Any advice is appreciated!

Thank You! Also get my loader in a week or 2!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,107 Posts
I found a Category 1 Quick hitch locally and the guy is dumping it for $60. I was going to jump on this but want to be sure it will work with my 1025R. Any 3pt attachment should work so shouldn't any 3pt quick hitch work also? It is a category 1. Like new, but it came off of a Kubota. Seller says it is about 28 inches between hooks and the lower pin size is 7/8" I am very new to the tractor scene and haven't had much garage time with my Deere yet.
Cat 1 is Cat 1. It should work just fine on your machine.


Alsooo I am on the look out for good deals on a 54" quick attach snowblower. I also found someone locally selling a 1023E with the blower attachment. My question is would that 54" snowblower on a 2008 1023E work on my 2017 1025R?? I don't see why it wouldn't?
The 54" front blower is used on a lot of different machines. They do that through the use of several different Quick Attach mounting brackets and front PTO shaft kits. So the same 54" blower that would be used on your 1025R would also be used on my 2032R but the Quick Attach components would be different.

The 1023E and 1025R use all the same Quick Attach kits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,299 Posts
Cat 1 is Cat 1 so fitting the quick hitch to the tractor shouldn't be an issue. However what isn't standard is what the hook pattern is. For instance look at an iMatch Quick hitch and compare that to the Harbor Freight one. The iMatch is fixed in that there is no way to adjust how high the top hook is. The HF one has several holes where the top hook can be adjusted up and down. Depending on what you are attaching to the quick hitch may determine if it fits. For me I use two things with the HF Quick Hitch. I have the Heavy Hitch weight bracket with 2" receiver and grab hook. This is on it most of the time. There are no adjustments in this attachment so I had to dial in my HF Quick Hitch to fit that however there was still an issue which I will get to later. The other attachment I use is a box blade. The way that was set up from before I had the quick hitch, it wouldn't fit even after I added the adapters. The problem is that the pin for the top link wasn't the same height. The way the box blade is designed, there are different holes I can use to adjust how it attaches to the tractor. This wasn't an issue when I used my normal 3pt arms but now it was. Luckily I was able to adjust things enough to make the box blade and Heavy Hitch close enough to work without having to adjust the top hook. If you have 3 attachments that may get more difficult.

So on to the other problem that I had. Based on the design of the quick hitch with the adjustable top hook, it uses two bolts to move it up and down. This was fine with the box blade but was an issue with the Heavy Hitch. At this point I had everything dialed in so I could use them without moving that top hook however I couldn't get the Heavy Hitch past the bolt head and nut. There wasn't enough clearance between the vertical bars that connect to that top hook. This is why it was important to find a happy medium of where that top hook needed to be for both attachments. The solution I had was to cut down a bolt and make a pin. Of course there was nothing to hold the pin in place so I welded the hook in the position that worked for my two attachments. Now it isn't adjustable just like the iMatch. I don't know if my top pin height is the same as iMatch because it doesn't matter. It fits my two attachments that I use, neither of which are John Deere or Frontier.

The point of this long response is that while Cat 1 is Cat 1 when attaching something to the tractor. When it comes to a quick hitch you may loose the flexibility of the top link position. There doesn't appear to be a standard for 3 pt attachments in the dimensions that they are looking at between the two lower links and how high the top link is. You might get lucky, you might not. That is why if you go with John Deere attachments, just get iMatch and stick with it. It was made to work together. Cat 1 does have some flexibility in the spacing of stuff as it isn't a cut and dry standard from what I have found.

You will also likely need CAT 1 adapter bushings for each attachment. I bought mine at a local farm supply store but this is an example.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-quick-hitch-bushing-kit-cat-1
They go on the lower pins of the attachment and are what the lower hooks of the Quick Hitch connect to.

Rather than try and explain the bushings take a look at this video. He shows where they are used and why.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CawOFEfzCbk

The ones I use are the ones pinned in place by the roll pin as I don't want to mess with moving them around You may also need to shim them out wider with washers depending on spacing of things.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,215 Posts
However what isn't standard is what the hook pattern is. For instance look at an iMatch Quick hitch and compare that to the Harbor Freight one. The iMatch is fixed in that there is no way to adjust how high the top hook is.
The original design of the iMatch has a fixed hook. However, JD has been selling an adjustable top hook version of the iMatch for several years.

iMatch2.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the Info! Looking at the local quick hitch and looking at the websites you provided, I think I am leaning towards something like the heavy hitch with the built in receiver as I would like to move trailers around or pull a yard trailer. I mean that quick hitch would work for 60 bucks but I don't have any 3pt attachments yet, and the only two attachments I can see getting is a brush hog, and a box blade or something along those lines.

This thing is looking like my RZR lots of parts and theyre not cheap! Going to have to park the rzr for while and give this thing some attention and new parts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,215 Posts
Thank you for the Info! Looking at the local quick hitch and looking at the websites you provided, I think I am leaning towards something like the heavy hitch with the built in receiver as I would like to move trailers around or pull a yard trailer. I mean that quick hitch would work for 60 bucks but I don't have any 3pt attachments yet, and the only two attachments I can see getting is a brush hog, and a box blade or something along those lines.
Don't dismiss the Quick Hitch too quickly. Even if you only have one 3PH implement, if it is heavy it can be very difficult to attach. Brush hogs and box blades are very heavy and neither is easy to move when attaching. The Heavy Hitch is also Quick Hitch compatible.

One other side benefit of a Quick Hitch is that once you have it attached and adjust your sway chains then you no longer have to mess with them for each implement. For me this single benefit alone was worth getting a Quick Hitch as the turnbuckles on my 2720 are (I mean were) a PITA to adjust.

Besides, $60 is a great deal for almost any brand of Quick Hitch if it is in working order.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,299 Posts
The original design of the iMatch has a fixed hook. However, JD has been selling an adjustable top hook version of the iMatch for several years.
Yeah I know they make an adjustable one but sometimes being adjustable is part of the problem and why I pinned and welded my quick hitch. I guess the point is that there isn't a set standard on how high the top hook is up from the lower hooks or the spacing between the lower hooks.

For example this says 28" Tractor Data

This says 26.8" John Deere Link

For the top link, Tractor Data doesn't even bother with a "spec" where John Deere said 15" - 18"

It really isn't an issue though if using traditional 3 pt arms because there is flexibility to them and only comes into play with a Quick Hitch. While there is a general range with what the spacing should be, the main thing I have seen somewhat consistent in the standard is it states what size pins are used and the HP rating of the tractor. It can be a pain having to move the top link up and down depending on how often you go back and forth and how it adjusts. For me I was able to get them close enough that I don't need to adjust them anymore and deal with the bolt placement which was an issue for me and the Heavy Hitch.

If you are only dealing with one attachment it typically isn't an issue. Get things dialed in and life is good. The more you add, you might need to get creative.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,299 Posts
Don't dismiss the Quick Hitch too quickly. Even if you only have one 3PH implement, if it is heavy it can be very difficult to attach. Brush hogs and box blades are very heavy and neither is easy to move when attaching. The Heavy Hitch is also Quick Hitch compatible.

One other side benefit of a Quick Hitch is that once you have it attached and adjust your sway chains then you no longer have to mess with them for each implement. For me this single benefit alone was worth getting a Quick Hitch as the turnbuckles on my 2720 are (I mean were) a PITA to adjust.

Besides, $60 is a great deal for almost any brand of Quick Hitch if it is in working order.
Yeah I agree.

Once you mess around with the normal 3pt hitch, even if you only have one attachment it is a pain. I guess if you are never going to take it off it isn't less of an issue but I wouldn't go back to not having one. I rarely use the box blade. I used it this spring and that was the first time in two years maybe.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,215 Posts
Yeah I know they make an adjustable one but sometimes being adjustable is part of the problem and why I pinned and welded my quick hitch. I guess the point is that there isn't a set standard on how high the top hook is up from the lower hooks or the spacing between the lower hooks.
I'm not saying there isn't any variation out there because there is, especially on older non-Quick Hitch compatible implements. But for quite a few years now manufacturers have been making QH-compatible implements and for those they all pretty much abide by the standards. Granted, making mods to non-standard implements can be a pain but you only have to do it once and then you can enjoy the ease of attach/detach for years to come.

Recently I've had a rear blade from John Deere and two from Land Pride, a Frontier landscape rake, a Frontier subsoiler, a ballast box and a trailer hitch and they all slipped right on my QH with no adjustments. While my QH has the adjustable hook I've never had to adjust it... but I could do so quickly if necessary. I also once used a boom pole which needed the top hook to be removed to work properly and that too was a 5-min job with the adjustable (aka removeble) top hook.

I agree that adjustability isn't always better. For the record I have a Land Pride QH-15 quick hitch and it came with pins to secure the top hook which promptly fell out the first time I used it. I replaced the pins with bolts and that was that.

Even if my only implement was the ballast box I still think the QH has advantages as trying to move that 800 lb box to get the lower arms attached would be a mess. As it is I don't even have to leave the seat... I can reach back, pull the release levers and drop off the box.

The QH itself can also be a useful implement. I have attached chains to the top hook for pulling posts out of the ground as the 3PH has way more lifting force than does the loader. I've also attached chains and straps to the lower hooks to pull something.

In years past tractors had a hand crank on the right-hand lift arm to make it easier to attach implements. Now days these small tractors no longer have them so attaching heavy implements can be very difficult.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
I found a Category 1 Quick hitch locally and the guy is dumping it for $60. I was going to jump on this but want to be sure it will work with my 1025R. Any 3pt attachment should work so shouldn't any 3pt quick hitch work also? It is a category 1. Like new, but it came off of a Kubota. Seller says it is about 28 inches between hooks and the lower pin size is 7/8" I am very new to the tractor scene and haven't had much garage time with my Deere yet.

Alsooo I am on the look out for good deals on a 54" quick attach snowblower. I also found someone locally selling a 1023E with the blower attachment. My question is would that 54" snowblower on a 2008 1023E work on my 2017 1025R?? I don't see why it wouldn't?

Any advice is appreciated!

Thank You! Also get my loader in a week or 2!
For $60 I would jump at that! Grab it!
I have a 54" front blower on my 1025. You would need the shaft and the complete front hitch set up. It should probably work but I would check. My 1025 is my first tractor but it seems the 1023,1025 and 1026 are almost identical as far as what we are talking about.

Also, blower works great. FEL comes off in the late fall and it's a front blower and rear blade till spring. I don't deal with plows, piles and running out of room. Chute throws it, mop up with the blade and I done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,299 Posts
In years past tractors had a hand crank on the right-hand lift arm to make it easier to attach implements. Now days these small tractors no longer have them so attaching heavy implements can be very difficult.
Yep, used the box blade for several years without a quick hitch. Fought and fought with it every time trying to get everything lined up and it isn't that heavy. While the quick hitch isn't always a smooth as butter, it is a lot easier to put on and take off even if it is the only thing I used it is worth it. Some times things bind up a bit.

For $60 I would still get it but if my only attachment was a Heavy Hitch, I guess I could see where maybe I wouldn't take it off enough to make me wonder if it is worth it. Is it $200 nice, probably not but anything less than $100 I would probably get it now that I have used them. Really it comes down to how one uses the machine and how often 3 pt attachments are on there or taken off. It isn't fun running around all the time with a box blade on there if not needed but a Heavy Hitch doesn't add much to the overall length to arms that are probably there all the time.

The one issue I have with my machine is I have to take my 3pt arms off all the time when I use my sprayer cart. The hand wand is too short to reach it from the operator seat when you add another couple feet of the 3pt hitch, quick hitch and heavy hitch. I could use a draw bar but that would save me a few inches. I should rebuild the sprayer as a 3 pt hitch sprayer and be done with it. Then the 3pt could stay on year round. That would be a fun project for the new welder.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top