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Discussion Starter #1
I "don't do car engines" anymore, I don't know what all that stuff is under the hood which appeared in the last 30 years.:laugh: The other day Wifey's '04 Explorer battery wouldn't spin the engine, had juice just not enough. Last time when the old battery went totally dead it did some sort of computer reset and had to be "seen by a professional" to get it going again... I charged it a bit and it started.

All it needs is cleaning the battery terminals properly and then grease them. BUT, what happens when I disconnect the cables for the cleaning? These are the cheapo Ford springy/no bolt type. I really don't want another service call to the house for a reset.

Thanx!!
 

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Your last experience sounds like an anomaly. I had the terminals disconnected on an 05 Explorer a couple days ago. When I reconnected and started the vehicle, the only warning light that stayed on was the "Charge" light. I shut the engine off and restarted and the light cleared. However, I had taken the alternator out and that may have been the cause of the warning light, rather than the disconnected terminals.

I say, go for it. You should be fine. However, if you want to be super-safe, I don't see why you couldn't jumper a 12 volt source to the cables during the removal and cleaning. It's probably not needed, but may be good for piece of mind.

If I'm wrong ... I won't hold it against you. :laugh:
 

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I "don't do car engines" anymore, I don't know what all that stuff is under the hood which appeared in the last 30 years.:laugh: The other day Wifey's '04 Explorer battery wouldn't spin the engine, had juice just not enough. Last time when the old battery went totally dead it did some sort of computer reset and had to be "seen by a professional" to get it going again... I charged it a bit and it started.

All it needs is cleaning the battery terminals properly and then grease them. BUT, what happens when I disconnect the cables for the cleaning? These are the cheapo Ford springy/no bolt type. I really don't want another service call to the house for a reset.

Thanx!!

Put a set of jumper cables on and hook to another car before taking wires off battery post. You could also, use a charger to maintain a voltage to cars CPU.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Put a set of jumper cables on and hook to another car before taking wires off battery post. You could also, use a charger to maintain a voltage to cars CPU.
Great, thanks! Battery charger it is!:good2:
 

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Great, thanks! Battery charger it is!:good2:
If the "baddery" charger is less than ~10 years old,,, the charger probably has technology built in that will shut it off when the battery is disconnected from the cables.

I keep a real old charger around for such tasks.
I mostly use it for rust removal.

If the charger clips will not "spark" if touched together,, the charger is too new to work for this.
 

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I don't have the same vehicle but my thoughts are you have nothing to worry about. When I replaced the battery in my 2011 Toyota I simply removed the battery, drove to the auto parts store and bought a new one (turning in my core) and returned home and installed the new battery. The vehicle was without a battery for probably close to 1 1/2 hours. Once reconnected the engine started and everything was fine.
 

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I don't think there would be a problem with just disconnecting the battery. One problem with older cars when all this electronic memory first started is they would lose the radio station settings and we used to use these memory savers to prevent that.

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-3002-Computer-Memory/dp/B000GKD5Q0

However, while searching for this just now, I came across this, warning not to use a memory saver today. So I probably would not use one on cars today. YMMV.

Memory savers not recommended by industry experts | Search Autoparts
 

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Well I changed my battery in my Passat TDi, and it was supposed to need all this stuff reset by the dealer, like auto down and up window function, etc.... everything still works as it should. Just want to make ya think the dealer has to do it.... Not!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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I don't think there would be a problem with just disconnecting the battery. One problem with older cars when all this electronic memory first started is they would lose the radio station settings and we used to use these memory savers to prevent that.

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-3002-Computer-Memory/dp/B000GKD5Q0

However, while searching for this just now, I came across this, warning not to use a memory saver today. So I probably would not use one on cars today. YMMV.

Memory savers not recommended by industry experts | Search Autoparts
Only if you are welding. This dongle ain't supposed to be used for other things than changing the battery. My Passat the cigarette lighters die with the engine. Went through the trouble of hooking up the fuse box to back feed while changing the DSG fluid. Was to cold when I changed the battery. Only had to reset the clock and radio. That was it. Total waste of time first time around.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
THANKS EVERYONE!!! I'm sure my box type chargers are "old enough" as one of 'em was my Dad's and the other I brought with me to this shop 20 years ago. I'll give that hookup a go "just to be on the safe side".:laugh:

I'm trying to talk Wifey into buying a new something, she only likes "big and high vehicles" (bad back/legs). The car only has 18k mi. on it but small plastic objects are failing on my side (shotgun) like the assembly that used to hold the visor up had to be "permanently rewired" in the up position... :laugh:
 

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Put a set of jumper cables on and hook to another car before taking wires off battery post. You could also, use a charger to maintain a voltage to cars CPU.
This post reminds me of Tuesday. Went to the farm, tried to start my beloved Deere, battery was strong enough to cycle the computer but not enough to start the beloved Kim K. My battery booster had not been charged since late last year, so we attempted to jump start the old girl, without joy. I rode one of my ATV's to the house to get the battery charger for a 30 minute quick charge. My BIL noticed the ground clamp was loose on the terminal post. He tightened the nut, hit the key again, and magic happened.

I connected the finishing mower and performed the first mow of the season on 10 inch deep grass on a bluebird, mid 70's °F Ohio spring day. More magic - the smell of first cut spring grass is still wonderful; the two wild turkeys frollicking in the field was a bonus.

Moral of this tale is to check the integrity of your battery terminal clamps in the springtime, wire bush both the terminal post and clamps and ensure the bolts are tight. Might want to confirm this several times during the season also,

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ahhhh.... I can smell that field too...! Over the years another battery contact point that I've dealt with are where negative ground connects to tractor/car/truck. They corrode almost as easily as the battery connection. Also some battery cables will corrode internally (inside the insulation) and increase resistance. Harder to find when it happens down by the grounding bolt. Darn electric stuff, I still don't know why it works!:laugh:
 

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There are two things that "could happen" that I know about...

1) The ECM (computer) will lose all of its stored information about the operation of your engine. When re-connected to a new battery, it will be back at default settings for things like ignition timing and may not run nice and smooth until after you drive it for a while so that it can make adjustments and "remember them". You -may- also lose things like custom PIN code for keyless entry, power seat memories, radio presets, etc.

2) The radio may stop working and require a "passcode" to re-enable it. Some manufacturers use radios that will render themselves unusable if they are disconnected as a means to deter their theft. Honda/Acura is one company that comes to mind that has been doing this for years. I do not know if Ford does. You would want to check with a dealership to see if the radio in your wife's Exploder is of this type and then get/find the code so you are prepared.

Alternatively, they sell devices that you can plug in to a cigarette lighter / power port that will drive just enough power through the electrical system so that these things do NOT happen. https://www.amazon.com/Kastar-Hand-Tools-Computer-Memory/dp/B000UZQUS6
 

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For less than 10 bucks you can get a thing that plugs into the 12 volt/ cigarette light port. It has a battery in it that will keep everything up to snuff while you disconnect the battery. I have one and have used it several times. It also keeps the radio memory buttons as well. Harbor Freight has them and possibly most Auto Parts stores.
Ron
 

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Just realized I didn't post the outcome... "A-OK"! Used the 2amp setting, hooked up and removed the cables with no loss of memory. Thanks all!:thumbup1gif:
 

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Just realized I didn't post the outcome... "A-OK"! Used the 2amp setting, hooked up and removed the cables with no loss of memory. Thanks all!:thumbup1gif:
So, you're telling us that you "forgot" to let us know that you didn't lose any "memory"? :lol:

Glad it worked out well.
 

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So, you're telling us that you "forgot" to let us know that you didn't lose any "memory"? :lol:

Glad it worked out well.
:lol::bigthumb: I think I'll add one of those plug in magik stix to my next Amazon orgy, just in case. What's another tool I might only use once more in my lifetime like my metric adjustable wrench.:laugh:
 

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:lol::bigthumb: I think I'll add one of those plug in magik stix to my next Amazon orgy, just in case. What's another tool I might only use once more in my lifetime like my metric adjustable wrench.:laugh:
Did you know they have a left-handed one now? Might want to put that on the shopping list. :bigthumb:
 
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