I have 3 1/2 acres that I own and have two Deere's to keep the grass mowed. The first is a 2004 GX335 (with a 54" deck, 14 bushel bagger plus power flow unit and a 42" snow thrower) and a 2012 X360 (with a 48" deck). I have a small brook on one side of my land that needs cleaning once in a while (every couple of years) plus a balsam tree near the house that I trim the top on as it is ALMOST too tall to put Christmas lights on. What I'm thinking of doing is sell the GX335 and getting a 1023e with FEL and mid mount deck (54" or 60"). Plus maybe a snow blower and brush hog (to mow some of the "lawn" that is just old pasture land. I do that now by raising the deck all the way up on my two baby deeres). Do you think the 1023e would work well for me or should I just keep the deeres I now have? And this more than likely will not happen till next year (retired and budget is tight for this "toy" lol)
I think you should keep the Deeres you have now. Doubt you could get much money for them. Keep them, run them inti the ground. The value of them, for you, is higher as keepers. And get the sub-compact of your choice.
Now this is just opinion here, but with those mowers you don't need a MMM for sub-compact. If you need a brush hog, then get that. Or look at any of the rear mowers options to pick the sturdy one that will work on what you want to keep clear. I have brush hog. I'll further suggest a shear pin version. I have the slip clutch version and it is a lot to know and maintain (if you tinker, then get one).
So let's say you get a sub-compact and a loader. Easiest to just leave the loader on all the time. I'm switching between loader and MMM, myself. I also have an old Deere garden tractor/mower (54" deck). I find it easier to still just mow with that, than take the loader off the 1025.
Let me say, yes, easy to take a quick detach loader off. But still is even easier to leave it on. Having a loader tractor separate from a mower tractor is my suggestion of the easiest way. The loader tractor can leave loader on and use 3ph brush hog, and probably should be left on for that (counter-balance front balast, and feeling things in front in tall weeds).
For snow, what to do if you have a loader tractor? I don't favor taking the loader off. I added edge tamers, cheap, easy, effective, so bucket slides along ground for snow "plowing." For 1 driveway, loader bucket clears just fine. Lots can argue for what is best, and it depends on the driveway. My point is the loader bucket will work for snow. You can always get a plow or snow pusher for the loader later, if you decide you don't like the bucket. Or later get a front frame mounted plow or snowblower. I'm just saying, I bet the bucket will work fine.
I will say a longer drivewsy, longer than 200 feet, will definitely do better with a plow or snowblower. A plow to quickly roll snow off to the one side, or a snowblower to throw it to one side. Then you run 500 feet like that. Whereas a bucket is more the pushing snow into the bucket, and pushing any extra snow straight ahead. The bucket can fill and still push snow straight ahead, it just doesn't control which side the snow rolls off to. So a bucket for plowing is either a 50 foot push, or a few separate diagonal 50 foot pushes to go 200 feet (simple math is 4 pushes diagonally off to the side gets you 200 feet). If going 500 feet, you probably don't want 10 diagonal pushes, but would rather have an angled plow.
I have a rear blade, which can be angled. You need something back there for ballast, so either a ballast box, a rear blade, or a rear snowblower. No matter what season, you need counter weight in back for your front loader weight.
Most the time, my 1025 is loader and bucket, with ballast box on 3ph (most common all year). In summer, the 2nd most common configuration is loader and bucket, with brush hog on 3ph. In winter, the 2nd most common configuration is loader and bucket, with rear blade on 3ph. I've got some summer projects for the rear blade, but my brush hog gets more use at the moment.
Ballast box is most common no matter the season. Just easier and more compact to work the loader with a ballast box on back than have anything else in rear. For me, this is true for snow, too.
Everyone will be different, but that's my opinion. And I've only had my 1025 since March. Had a lot of snow in March and April, so did use it a lot for that. 24" snowfalls are common for me, per storm, and loader bucket was fine on that. I do also get 36" and 48" storms, and believe loader bucket will work fine on those, also. I still have a walk-behind snowblower, but don't plan on having to use it now that I have the loader bucket.
For others reading this, I not saying anything wrong with a MMM. Just saying if you already have some sort of riding mower, you may find yourself just leaving the bucket on the sub-compact because so many uses for a bucket. But if you didn't have a riding mower, then sure, the sub-compact with a drive over MMM can handle the multiple duties and switching configurations with the well designed Deere is no problem.