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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My used 6415 has had a minor (as in not much, steady drips) trans/hydraulic leak since I got it :nunu::flag_of_truce::hide:

I think it's from the seal for the MFWD drive shaft at the gear box at the transmission. Drips look like they are from the bottom of this gear box, but it's lowest point so I expect drips there. Also the inside of the left frame rail is covered with oil ( I think the drive shaft flings it there).

My question is can this seal be changed without out draining the 15 gallons of hydraulic fluid? If so, how much will I lose?

It looks like looking at JDparts drawing the seal 23. is in the bearing housing 6, and the bearing housing seals with o-ring 22. So the bearing housing 6, will have to come off to replace the seal. What about round retainer 20, do I need to replace it?

Or is there other known places to check for leaks?
 

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You will want to drain the oil to replace that seal. Unless you work very quickly, it will drain when you remove that seal housing anyway. Typically, the retainer is fine unless something has wound up around the shaft and damaged it. As for other leaks, there is a return hose between the frame rail and transmission on that left side I have had leak. For whatever reason there is a splice in that hose with 2 hose clamps. With age, those clamps tend to get loose and allow the hose to leak at the splice. If you can tighten the clamps, it usually solves the leak. The clamps are very challenging to reach however. long thin arms and small hands help. A 1/4" drive ratchet and 7mm socket seems to be best chance of tightening. The splice is closer to the top of frame rail than the bottom, but fuel tank is in the way to reach the top. Never tried removing tank for access, but I think it would help. Check diagram and see hose 26 and 12 joint, actually only shows on clamp, SOme models have 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the reply, I am not really sure if the MFWD shaft seal is the leak.
I will look for those hoses.
Would taking the floor plate of the operator station off help? Non cab tractor, open station.

I had the fuel tank off several years ago to add a skid plate :banghead:

Would replacing the hose with a one piece hose be easier? Do you know hose size and length for both 12 & 26?

I DO have 1/4" ratchet, 7mm socket, many extensions, universal, but not the small hands, more like XXL hands.

I am now hoping it's this hose connection rather than the seal. I think I will replace the seal next hydraulic oil change.

Levi will probably say to just roll the tractor on it's side then change the seal
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You will want to drain the oil to replace that seal. Unless you work very quickly, it will drain when you remove that seal housing anyway. Typically, the retainer is fine unless something has wound up around the shaft and damaged it. As for other leaks, there is a return hose between the frame rail and transmission on that left side I have had leak. For whatever reason there is a splice in that hose with 2 hose clamps. With age, those clamps tend to get loose and allow the hose to leak at the splice. If you can tighten the clamps, it usually solves the leak. The clamps are very challenging to reach however. long thin arms and small hands help. A 1/4" drive ratchet and 7mm socket seems to be best chance of tightening. The splice is closer to the top of frame rail than the bottom, but fuel tank is in the way to reach the top. Never tried removing tank for access, but I think it would help. Check diagram and see hose 26 and 12 joint, actually only shows on clamp, SOme models have 2.
What is the "ghost" item hoses 1,2, & 7 connect to?
What is item 21?

Thanks
 

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The "ghost" item is the brake valve. Item 21 is a fitting that screws into the top of the differential housing. That diagram is actually for a cab tractor. Open station is different. The open station does not show the splice in the hose. I assume the splice has something to do with where they connect when installing the cab at the factory since both endpoint connections are near impossible to access when the cab is on. Hose is 16mm diameter or close to 5/8". Can't say I have any experience with open station 6415, so not sure about access through floor plate. The rear connection may be accessible from rear of tractor. It is under the area where heater core and evaporator lives on a cab version.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll go and look and see what kind of access I have to hose 13 and look for leaks from it, or where 21 mounts. I am glad my hose does not have the center clamp, but it can't be my leak source either.

Best plan might be to power wash it clean and add dye to oil and watch for a leak.

Any other guess for the leak? It's open station, PowerQuad, Reverser, Non Creeper.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I pulled the center diamond plate floor on the 6415 to see if I could located hose 13. By shining a light along the inside of the left frame I can see the hose. It's "wet" at it's lowest spot and also going to ward the back of the tractor. Going forward it is dry. There is another hose with it, but that hose is dry. I am not sure where it goes.

At the back of the tractor I finally found the end of hose 13 where it clamps to 20. It was under a bunch of wire looms, not easy to find. I was only able to tighten it's hose clamp about 1/4 turn. Easy access, just would not tighten any more. It was "wet" as far as I could see from 20 going forward.

I did not have anything to clean it with, with me at the farm.

I also found a short hose (might hose key 21), smaller diameter than 13, it mounts behind the hydraulic oil pump, heads to the left, turns 90° forward, then 90° down to another fitting. It was a little wet, maybe from 13? I was able to tighten it's clamps 1/2 turn on each clamp. Hose 7 did not look like it was leaking, all dry.

jd110, what pressure do these hoses, 13, and 21 operate at? Which way is flow for hose 13? Thanks
 

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I pulled the center diamond plate floor on the 6415 to see if I could located hose 13. By shining a light along the inside of the left frame I can see the hose. It's "wet" at it's lowest spot and also going to ward the back of the tractor. Going forward it is dry. There is another hose with it, but that hose is dry. I am not sure where it goes.

At the back of the tractor I finally found the end of hose 13 where it clamps to 20. It was under a bunch of wire looms, not easy to find. I was only able to tighten it's hose clamp about 1/4 turn. Easy access, just would not tighten any more. It was "wet" as far as I could see from 20 going forward.

I did not have anything to clean it with, with me at the farm.

I also found a short hose (might hose key 21), smaller diameter than 13, it mounts behind the hydraulic oil pump, heads to the left, turns 90° forward, then 90° down to another fitting. It was a little wet, maybe from 13? I was able to tighten it's clamps 1/2 turn on each clamp. Hose 7 did not look like it was leaking, all dry.

jd110, what pressure do these hoses, 13, and 21 operate at? Which way is flow for hose 13? Thanks
Those are low pressure lube hoses for pto and transmission. Shouldn't see any more than 50 psi, maybe a little higher in extreme cold temps. If replacing, I would replace with hoses rated at least 150 psi to be sure it is heavy enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I finally got the 6415 home and power washed. The next day I looked for leaks. I found drips, left side, differential case at the frame mount. Following the oil up to the top of the differential case, there is a bunch of wiring harnesses. They were also oily.

I cleaned everything up. Move the wiring harnesses, then put clean paper towels on the top of the differential case. Later I found a large spot of oil on the paper towels. Directly below the bend of hose key 7.

I am guessing the oil was leaking from hose key 7 on to the wiring harnesses, flowing along the harnesses, then dripping on hose key 13, and flowing along it until it started to go up to the brake valve. Which was why hose 13 was wet with oil from the rear to the lowest point before going up, then to the brake valve, and why I thought this was the leaking hose. Hose 13 actually goes down from the left end to the first bend after the number 13, then goes up to the brake valve. The drawing makes it look like it's up all the way to the brake valve.

I still need to check the hose clamps for hose 7 to see if they are loose, before I order that hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
jd110 have you seen this hose (key 7) fail?
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Today I confirmed it's the hose and not loose clamp(s). The leak is also higher than the clamps, the hose loops up.

I ordered the hose today, and also the seal/o-ring for the front driveshaft, O-rings for the drain plugs and sump screen plug.
I also bought 15 gallons HyGard

I noticed the boot (JD calls it a grommet) on my trailer socket was all torn up, so I order that too. I found 4 of the wires were not connected, the screws to retain them gone :banghead: They are tiny little screws, I suspect they will be hard to find new ones. They are not listed in JD parts, they want to sell the complete trailer socket. I also need to find which wire goes where on the trailer socket.
 
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Today I confirmed it's the hose and not loose clamp(s). The leak is also higher than the clamps, the hose loops up.

I ordered the hose today, and also the seal/o-ring for the front driveshaft, O-rings for the drain plugs and sump screen plug.
I also bought 15 gallons HyGard

I noticed the boot (JD calls it a grommet) on my trailer socket was all torn up, so I order that too. I found 4 of the wires were not connected, the screws to retain them gone :banghead: They are tiny little screws, I suspect they will be hard to find new ones. They are not listed in JD parts, they want to sell the complete trailer socket. I also need to find which wire goes where on the trailer socket.
I was able to determine the size of the screws that hold the wires to the terminals. Not easy with big hands and clumsy fingers :flag_of_truce: I am surprised I did not drop and lose my sample screw. For inquiring minds, they are M3, 0.50 pitch, 5mm long.

Then even more surprising (at least to me), I found Menards carrys/has these tiny screws, $.29 for a two pack. The only differences; are Phillips head instead of slotted, and 6mm long instead of 5mm long. :good2:

Menards is on the way to the JD dealer, ordered parts are supposed to be in Wednesday, so on the way to JD dealer, I'll pick up the screws!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes, I have seen this hose leak a couple of times. Sometimes tightening the clamps will buy some time. The rubber seems to shrink with age and causes the clamps to lose tension.
My clamps were real tight. The leak was at about 8 o'clock on the bottom of the hose. Also the way the hose loops, it was at a point higher than both ends and clamps.

The new hose came in today. Easy install. I expected it to be hard to remove the old hose, new one hard to push on and hard to make it bend and push other end on. It came off easy, new one pushed on easy, I clamped that end then moved to the other end. Not bad to bend or push on and clamp. On 1 to 10, 1 very easy, 10 very hard, about a 3.

The new hose was just a straight piece of hose. I expected a preformed hose. I would have preferred it to be longer so the bend was not so tight.
I'll have to post a picture of the old hose. And new hose installed. Too dark now, and the tractor is outside. :flag_of_truce:
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
The other leak, at the MFWD gear box, front drive shaft, seems to be where the seal/bearing holder (key 6) mounts to the MFWD gear box (key 1). Maybe the o ring (key 22) was damaged when it was put together at the factory? :dunno:

I am finding a drip right at the line where these parts, Key 1 and key 6, meet at the very bottom. No oil is coming down from the seal at the drive shaft, nor is any oil coming around from the right or left sides.

The four bolts are all tight.

I am guessing the o ring, key 22, is used to seal the bearing housing,key 6, to the gear box, key 1 ? Or sealant, key 14, is used?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
here's pictures of the old hose and the new hose installed
 

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