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The other day I mentioned in a post that that I created a sub-soiler from stuff I had laying around. I didn't feel like purchasing a category 1 Subsoiler since I'll only use it a couple of times a year.

I created this out of the necessity when tiling the garden. Where I live in Iowa, the soil is tremendously productive (200+ bushel/acre corn), but oddly enough, if not tilled, it compacts together rock hard. When tilling the garden in the spring and fall, with out pre-breaking the soil, it would take maybe 8 to 10 passes to get the soil broke up. I rip the soil as deep as it will go in lines about 12" apart, some times I'll even make a checkerboard if I feel seat deprived. After ripping a couple of passes with the tiller and it's good to go. The sub-soiler goes in the ground about 8 inches, plenty deep to fracture the soil I'll be working with. In the fall it's really easy to till in the left over organic matter, grass clippings, leaves, etc.

The parts list:
King Kutter trailer mover
ball mount hitch (3/4" rise, 2" drop)
a ripper tooth borrowed from the box blade
3 3/4" bolts with lock washers and nuts
12? 3/4" flat washers for shims

I started by turning the ball mount 90* and drilled a hole through the receiver tube portion. The ball mount hole is shimmed down to 3/4" to which the box blade ripper is bolted, then a piece of scrap iron runs from the bolt holding the ball mount in the receiver tube to a hole in the ripper shank (holes are drilled to keep the shank roughly 90* to the ball mount hitch). All bolts are 3/4" grade 8 with lock washers. The off-set of the hitch keeps the shank almost inline with the receiver hitch, or close enough that it doesn't bother pulling to the side. We don't have rocks to speak of, and I NEVER run this much past idle so breakaway and shear bolts are not a concern. It's plenty strong to stop the tractor dead in its tracks.

IMG_2810.jpg
(complete with soil worms from the grooved tires)

This side shows the connections, I shimmed with washers the places where there was an interference or offset. Yes I should paint it, and trim the extra material but at the time, it was just an idea that happen to work well for its few uses a year, maybe a winter project. I've toyed with the idea of adding a couple more rippers to the sides, but haven't given that much real thought, it would be pretty easy to do tough.

IMG_2808.jpg

Nothing fancy, but it works for me and it takes only a couple of minutes to move the ripper between the sub-soiler an box blade. :thumbup1gif:
 

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:bigthumb::bigthumb: Looks like if you need to make the ditch wider you could put another ripper tooth on the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
:bigthumb::bigthumb: Looks like if you need to make the ditch wider you could put another ripper tooth on the other side.
I'll let you know how that works out. I never contemplated two, but it certainly would move more soil.

Thanks for the idea!
 

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My quick and simple one involved a welder and some PVC pipe to feed a cable:

DSC03021.jpg


But yours is a GREAT idea for those that can't weld :good2:
 

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:thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif:

Now that is great ingenuity, I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
But yours is a GREAT idea for those that can't weld
Thank you. You have NO idea how many times I've skipped making or doing something due to the lack of a welder...it's not that I can't weld, I don't have access to one....YET!

The new garage will take care of that.... :yahoo:
 

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My quick and simple one involved a welder and some PVC pipe to feed a cable:

View attachment 273625


But yours is a GREAT idea for those that can't weld :good2:
Weld? When I look at that, I see duct tape! Did you find some new type of weld which resembles duct tape?? :)


Tim
 

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Weld? When I look at that, I see duct tape! Did you find some new type of weld which resembles duct tape?? :)


Tim
Yup, duct tape, a hose clamp (under the tape) and zip ties...what else does a redneck need?
 

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Yup, duct tape, a hose clamp (under the tape) and zip ties...what else does a redneck need?
I did something similar to bury an Innotek invisible fense for our 2 puppies about 12 years ago. Used a draw bar and welded a ring to the top of a heavy angle iron for the top Mount then just cut the bottom to make the blade for the ripper. Had stainless tubing and hose clamps just like you.
The other day I mentioned in a post that that I created a sub-soiler from stuff I had laying around. I didn't feel like purchasing a category 1 Subsoiler since I'll only use it a couple of times a year.

I created this out of the necessity when tiling the garden. Where I live in Iowa, the soil is tremendously productive (200+ bushel/acre corn), but oddly enough, if not tilled, it compacts together rock hard. When tilling the garden in the spring and fall, with out pre-breaking the soil, it would take maybe 8 to 10 passes to get the soil broke up. I rip the soil as deep as it will go in lines about 12" apart, some times I'll even make a checkerboard if I feel seat deprived. After ripping a couple of passes with the tiller and it's good to go. The sub-soiler goes in the ground about 8 inches, plenty deep to fracture the soil I'll be working with. In the fall it's really easy to till in the left over organic matter, grass clippings, leaves, etc.

The parts list:
King Kutter trailer mover
ball mount hitch (3/4" rise, 2" drop)
a ripper tooth borrowed from the box blade
3 3/4" bolts with lock washers and nuts
12? 3/4" flat washers for shims

I started by turning the ball mount 90* and drilled a hole through the receiver tube portion. The ball mount hole is shimmed down to 3/4" to which the box blade ripper is bolted, then a piece of scrap iron runs from the bolt holding the ball mount in the receiver tube to a hole in the ripper shank (holes are drilled to keep the shank roughly 90* to the ball mount hitch). All bolts are 3/4" grade 8 with lock washers. The off-set of the hitch keeps the shank almost inline with the receiver hitch, or close enough that it doesn't bother pulling to the side. We don't have rocks to speak of, and I NEVER run this much past idle so breakaway and shear bolts are not a concern. It's plenty strong to stop the tractor dead in its tracks.

View attachment 273113
(complete with soil worms from the grooved tires)

This side shows the connections, I shimmed with washers the places where there was an interference or offset. Yes I should paint it, and trim the extra material but at the time, it was just an idea that happen to work well for its few uses a year, maybe a winter project. I've toyed with the idea of adding a couple more rippers to the sides, but haven't given that much real thought, it would be pretty easy to do tough.

View attachment 273121

Nothing fancy, but it works for me and it takes only a couple of minutes to move the ripper between the sub-soiler an box blade. 1gif:

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Wire Pulling

In 1979, on a golf course, we had an irrigation wire run electrical short and had to pull a new wire over 100 yards. We had no apparatus other than a ditch witch and did NOT want to have to clean up and repair an entire beautiful fairway we had just seeded, cared for and nursed to perfection a year prior.

But, we had purchased a small vibratory plow to break up hard pan in our greens (long story). After considerable thought we hooked up the plow, installed a wired pulling apparatus ( can't remember it anymore) and used Duct Tape to wrap around it several million times to secure it, along with everything else in the kitchen sink. Over 150 yards later we reached the irrigation solenoid valve, hooked up the wires, tested the feed for continuity and turned on the live feed, it worked!

Duct Tape, the salvation of those who have no where else to turn. Thanks to all above, years ago, who once again verify the blessing of duct tape to the masses. It works. :yahoo:
 
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