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Given my planned use, outlined below, please vote and comment

  • Single spool with 1/4

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  • Single spool with 3/8

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  • Single spool with 1/2

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • Double spool with 1/4 on one pair of work ports and 1/2 on the other

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • Double spool with 3/8 on one pair of work ports and 1/2 on the other

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Double spool with 1/2 on both work ports

    Votes: 1 33.3%
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’m planning for a single spool rear valve for a hydraulic top link for a 1025r. I will use 1/4” hose from the valve to the cylinder.

Given that I will never use the valve for anything but the top link, is there any reason not to use 1/4 inch quick couplers on the work ports? 1/2” seems to be the norm because of the extra versatility, but this valve will be dedicated to the top link, so I don’t see that as a benefit. As I lose strength and dexterity in my fingers, I’ll have a little more room to engage and disengage the smaller couplers.

I was also thinking that I could use a 2 spool valve and put the larger couplers on the spare spool, just in case it’s ever needed.
 

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Given that I will never use the valve for anything but the top link
Never say never....or something like that.

Since the cost would be about the same I would like to future proof an add on like this. Having a more universal hydraulic option at the rear of the tractor opens up lots of possibilities in the future.

I have already lost a lot of stregth and dexterity in my hands along with most every other joint in my body. My tractor has allowed me to keep our beautiful property nice. Any help whatsoever is most welcome.

Don’t mind me - just thinking aloud.....
 

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Sorry Dave, but I didn't vote. I would think that you should use what ever couplers are on the tractor's primary hydraulic system. That way, you only need to stock one size of spare parts, including o-rings. I will say use a double spool valve. As Stan mentioned, ya never know! You may want to add a rear blade with hyd. angling someday! Bob
 

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I would use 1/2 or 1/4, 3/8 is uncommon these days.

Depending on the valve, you may not be able to put 1/2 couplers next to each other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would use 1/2 or 1/4, 3/8 is uncommon these days.

Depending on the valve, you may not be able to put 1/2 couplers next to each other.
Yes - that was in the back of my mind. I’ll be sure to ask before I order the valve.
 

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Could always hardline, straight to the valve. It's cheaper, cleaner/tidier, less obtrusive/space saving, and eliminates a couple connection points. If it's probably never going to come off, whats the need for quick couplers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would use 1/2 or 1/4, 3/8 is uncommon these days.

Depending on the valve, you may not be able to put 1/2 couplers next to each other.
Yes - that was in the back of my mind. I’ll be sure to ask before I order the valve
Could always hardline, straight to the valve. It's cheaper, cleaner/tidier, less obtrusive/space saving, and eliminates a couple connection points. If it's probably never going to come off, whats the need for quick couplers?
my question is about the work ports on the valve and lines to and from a hydraulic top link. hard lines would not work. Are you suggesting hard lines from the P and R ports on the back of the tractor to the P and N ports on the valve? If so, that won’t work very well either because I have a backhoe.
 

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Didn't see a mention of the backhoe. I was talking about the work port. I meant hardline as in, not quick connected, just hose screwed right to it. But now that there is mention of a hoe, that will inevitably get swapped back and forth, its not as useful.
 
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A thumb is a perfect second use of a third function
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Didn't see a mention of the backhoe. I was talking about the work port. I meant hardline as in, not quick connected, just hose screwed right to it. But now that there is mention of a hoe, that will inevitably get swapped back and forth, its not as useful.
Yes, now I understand your suggestion. A flexible hose with connectors screwed directly into the valve, sans quick connects, would work nicely without the backhoe.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don’t have my valve yet, but eyeballing the setup that I have in mind, it looks like 1 ft lines from the backhoe ports to the valve will work once I have added the couplings. 1/2x12 houses rated at 4000 psi with swivel ends cost about $10 each at surplus center. This has to be quite a bit cheaper than having lines made up locally. Is there any reason not to use off the shelf hoses from the PB ports to the valve?
 

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That's how I did it, prefabbed hoses from surpluscenter with JIC ends. They have good prices, and fast shipping. I like that you can choose from a bunch of different ends. My local farm and barn stores only seem to stock NPT ended hoses.
 
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