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Discussion Starter #1
I have not jumped into it yet this morning as I am watching the little one. I have a MMM 60D auto connect deck, do the mounting plates for the front end MMM hitch bar have to be unbolted and taken off before I can attach the plow quick hitch mount plates on?
 

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Yes, both sets of brkts stay on using the same fasteners along with the grill guard if you have one on your tractor.
Tip, after installing QH brkts and before tightening bolts completely hang the QH on to make sure everything aligns, don't ask me how I found this out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks Vern, not very clear in the installation directions whether I could leave the MMM ears and brush guard on or off.
 

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You can put the brush guard back on after mounting the quick hitch plates.
 

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I know this question probably was asked a hundred times. Forgive me…
What are you guys using with Front Quick Hitch Plow
Rear Tire Chains or just Ballast box?

Trying to decide on chains and/or ballast?
I do have some hills to go up and down while plowing.
 

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I know this question probably was asked a hundred times. Forgive me…
What are you guys using with Front Quick Hitch Plow
Rear Tire Chains or just Ballast box?

Trying to decide on chains and/or ballast?
I do have some hills to go up and down while plowing.
Both! 350lbs. in the ballast box + chains. My driveway is a hill and one of the neighbor's driveways I have to back uphill to backblade away from his vehicles. No way I can back up w/o either of 'em.
 

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I know this question probably was asked a hundred times. Forgive me…
What are you guys using with Front Quick Hitch Plow
Rear Tire Chains or just Ballast box?

Trying to decide on chains and/or ballast?
I do have some hills to go up and down while plowing.
I have loaded turf tires in the rear without chains with about 350# of hang on weights on my 3pt Omni Transformer hitch.
 

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I know this question probably was asked a hundred times. Forgive me…
What are you guys using with Front Quick Hitch Plow
Rear Tire Chains or just Ballast box?

Trying to decide on chains and/or ballast?
I do have some hills to go up and down while plowing.
I have found after many years of plowing snow, more ballast does not equate to better performance when snow plowing.
A good starting point, rear ballast = front plow weight.

BTW, I use both.
 
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I use weight; eight 42 pound suitcase, plus the Omni Combo hitch, but no chains. My friend ^^^^^^^ tells me I'm nuts not to use chains. We will see.
 
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I use my heavy hitch with four 70 pound weights on it. Worked great this morning. No chains and no loaded tires. I have the R4 tires on my 1025r

BTW, in looking at your pictures you shouldn't have to remove the grill guard to mount the quick hitch. The hooks for the MMM can stay on too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The installation was easy and I am going to run with 6- #42 weights on the rear and see how I do.
 

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I've tried pushing a little snow on my concrete driveway without chains. My driveway has a gradual slope uphill to the road that I can not climb with any snow on the concrete without chains on the drive tires. My #1 snow mover weighs about 6000# with chains, loader, blade. #2 snow mover weighs about 7500# with chains, loader, and snow bucket. I'd put more weight on the back if it wasn't $200 per 300# increments. I have 600# on #1 and 900# on #2 already. I had CaCl in #1, about 400-500# until 4 years ago, not putting fluid of any kind back in anything! The first 600# off #2 would go right on #1 for 1200# total on #1 which I'd do long before buying more weight.

Yes, Big vote for both weights and chains!
 

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I use a rear blade on my 2720 for most of my snow removal in combination with the front bucket. This doesn't really allow for any rear weight to be added without ballasting the tires which I don't really want to do. I do run two 40# weights on the front just because I have them. I run chains on the rear and it makes a huge difference. I can't really do much without them as I have a gravel drive and I don't bother going out till I have atleast 4" accumulated.
 

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I leave the 260 BH on for rear ballast with the front end loader for moving snow. I found out very quick that it wouldn't push a bucket full of anything in the winter without chains. So I put them on all 4 corners, Vbar, 2 link, and it is a tank. There is a small issue running them up front so I had to "fabricate" a steering stop on the one side to prevent the chains from tearing up the power steering lines. Not much to it, drilled a hole in the existing steering stop, tapped it with 1/4-20 and now I just screw in a grade 8 bolt with about 3 or 4 nuts on it. Works like a charm. When I'm done with the chains, just unscrew it and you have full steering radius again. There is a thread somewhere on what I did, but in the beginning I put a rubber stop and it just mashed it up and bent the bolt.

Found the other thread: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/16899-1025r-tire-chains-8.html#post196463
 
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