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Good grief.
I thought i was the only person with this stupid coolant leak.
My 1025R is a 2014 so so much for having an updated tank.

Here was my fix this morning w/ pics BEFORE i searched on here for a cure to my problem. lol
In future i should search first on GTT before i start wrenching.

Anyway, my cap would not even come close to snap sealing on tank.
Removed the parting lines on tank. That did nothing.
Pulled the rubber gasket and place the cap on. It just sat on there like it was too big. Obviously just a terrible casting.
So my fix was to put a hose clamp around the cap and tighten it slightly.
Hit it with a heat gun and be careful not to melt it. Just to get it hot to the touch.
Cranked down on the clamp some more causing the cap to bubble up on the top slightly as opposed to it being concave.
Hit it again with heat gun.
Quenched it in a cup of cold water to hopefully "set" it.
Put gasket back in and tried to reinstall it.
No dice. The gasket seems too thick. The lip of the cap won't go over edge of tank locking lip.
Pulled gasket and it snapped on like it should. Fit snug. Took a little effort to pop back off.
Pondered leaving it like that but then search for a thinner piece of rubber.
Cut a piece out of a thin bike tube, cleaned it up, and trimmed it to same size as JD gasket.
Cut the two holes in it by working an aluminum rifle cleaning rod female end in in circle on a wood table working two clean holes through.
Placed the thinner gasket in the cap and she snapped on real nice and tight like.:yahoo:

The test will be when i run it and get it hot as too see if it works.
The next step will be the piece of PVC flanged sink trap material that Big J Deere and Red badger have used. I think i'm gonna do that regardless.

If the dealer would hand me a new tank and cap i would try that. But something says they won't just hand it to me and will want to see tractor.
Not worth that much effort.
Yet anyway.









 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Good grief.
I thought i was the only person with this stupid coolant leak.
My 1025R is a 2014 so so much for having an updated tank.

Here was my fix this morning w/ pics BEFORE i searched on here for a cure to my problem. lol
In future i should search first on GTT before i start wrenching.

Anyway, my cap would not even come close to snap sealing on tank.
Removed the parting lines on tank. That did nothing.
Pulled the rubber gasket and place the cap on. It just sat on there like it was too big. Obviously just a terrible casting.
So my fix was to put a hose clamp around the cap and tighten it slightly.
Hit it with a heat gun and be careful not to melt it. Just to get it hot to the touch.
Cranked down on the clamp some more causing the cap to bubble up on the top slightly as opposed to it being concave.
Hit it again with heat gun.
Quenched it in a cup of cold water to hopefully "set" it.
Put gasket back in and tried to reinstall it.
No dice. The gasket seems too thick. The lip of the cap won't go over edge of tank locking lip.
Pulled gasket and it snapped on like it should. Fit snug. Took a little effort to pop back off.
Pondered leaving it like that but then search for a thinner piece of rubber.
Cut a piece out of a thin bike tube, cleaned it up, and trimmed it to same size as JD gasket.
Cut the two holes in it by working an aluminum rifle cleaning rod female end in in circle on a wood table working two clean holes through.
Placed the thinner gasket in the cap and she snapped on real nice and tight like.:yahoo:

The test will be when i run it and get it hot as too see if it works.
The next step will be the piece of PVC flanged sink trap material that Big J Deere and Red badger have used. I think i'm gonna do that regardless.

If the dealer would hand me a new tank and cap i would try that. But something says they won't just hand it to me and will want to see tractor.
Not worth that much effort.
Yet anyway.










I started this thread. Lots of fixes here. One thing I would do is not fill your tank to full so it doesn't slop up at the cap.

I'm no engineer or much of a mechanic. But having the overflow hose attach to the top of the tank and having a screw on cap might make just a little sense. But that would require re-engineering by JD.

I went back when the 1026r's first came out 3 years ago. The tank was leaking then.

Also other models of JD tractors also leak the same way.

There isn't much else to say.

Phil
 

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I started this thread. Lots of fixes here. One thing I would do is not fill your tank to full so it doesn't slop up at the cap.

I'm no engineer or much of a mechanic. But having the overflow hose attach to the top of the tank and having a screw on cap might make just a little sense. But that would require re-engineering by JD.

I went back when the 1026r's first came out 3 years ago. The tank was leaking then.

Also other models of JD tractors also leak the same way.

There isn't much else to say.

Phil
That pic inside the tank is deceiving in that it looks filled up to top.
It isn't. It's down at the bottom on the cold full mark.

But i agree.
It's absolutely horrible that the tank and cap isn't a better designed part.
 

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Was at Ace yesterday grabbing some screws and remembered the coolant tank baffle job fix Red badger did.
Grabbed a 6" piece to be sure because i never measured the depth of the tank. Probably could of gotten a 4" but wasn't a whole lot of difference in cost.



 

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Was at Ace yesterday grabbing some screws and remembered the coolant tank baffle job fix Red badger did.
Grabbed a 6" piece to be sure because i never measured the depth of the tank. Probably could of gotten a 4" but wasn't a whole lot of difference in cost.

How long did you end up cutting it and what size holes did you drill ? I have an Ace hardware here in town and I would like to try the same fix .
Thanks for the post .
 

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Was at Ace yesterday grabbing some screws and remembered the coolant tank baffle job fix Red badger did.
Grabbed a 6" piece to be sure because i never measured the depth of the tank. Probably could of gotten a 4" but wasn't a whole lot of difference in cost.

How long did you end up cutting it and what size holes did you drill ? I have an Ace hardware here in town and I would like to try the same fix .
Thanks for the post .
I just measured the cut off at about 2 1/2" so i guess a 4" piece would would work fine with a small cut off.
The holes are 1/4" after i drilled small pilot holes.
Like the other gents mentioned keep the top of the PVC even with the top of tank lip so it doesn't kick out.
 

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I seriously can't believe this issue still isn't fixed. I too have had the bottle and cap replaced with the "new" one but I still have the leak. Its time to try out the baffle idea. It seems to be the only fix that is actually effective.
 

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I seriously can't believe this issue still isn't fixed. I too have had the bottle and cap replaced with the "new" one but I still have the leak. Its time to try out the baffle idea. It seems to be the only fix that is actually effective.
I haven't lost a drop since i performed that modification. :good2:
 

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As of now I must be one of the lucky ones. I haven't lost a drop. With my hills I thought I would but...no. When I check mine it is usually right after use when I'm blowing the dust and grass off. But I have to say at that time it is only about ¼ full. I bought a gallon of anti-freeze for the tractor only, just in case. So far, haven't used any. I haven't even popped the cap off since I got the tractor. Everything is dry around the cap and no residue of any leaking...ever. With my hills, my main concern was always the battery. It would leak. I've always wanted to get a gel battery but can't find any for the tractor. So far this battery it came with hasn't leaked. On the 2210 I had, it always leaked. Made sure to get the sealed battery for the 2210 when I had to replace it and it still leaked. I hate battery acid when it's not in the battery. On the 2210 it leaked down on the dip stick for the front end. Caught it in time but it had ate away some of the dip stick. Washed it all off and replaced the dip stick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
As of now I must be one of the lucky ones. I haven't lost a drop. With my hills I thought I would but...no. When I check mine it is usually right after use when I'm blowing the dust and grass off. But I have to say at that time it is only about ¼ full. I bought a gallon of anti-freeze for the tractor only, just in case. So far, haven't used any. I haven't even popped the cap off since I got the tractor. Everything is dry around the cap and no residue of any leaking...ever. With my hills, my main concern was always the battery. It would leak. I've always wanted to get a gel battery but can't find any for the tractor. So far this battery it came with hasn't leaked. On the 2210 I had, it always leaked. Made sure to get the sealed battery for the 2210 when I had to replace it and it still leaked. I hate battery acid when it's not in the battery. On the 2210 it leaked down on the dip stick for the front end. Caught it in time but it had ate away some of the dip stick. Washed it all off and replaced the dip stick.
I actually started this thread because I was ticked at my cap leaking and more ticked that it has been going on for years.

My fix was a new cap and NOT FILLING THE OVERFLOW TANK TOO FULL. I only have about a 1/2 inch in the bottom (cold level). I do look at it after I do work with the tractor religiously.

That has worked for me.

Phil d
 
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