ran way past my hydraulic fluid change interval on 1025r

I think it's really up to the operator. I doubt you did any damage, it just would have been better to change at 200, especially as the first change, as you are removing any manufacturing debris. Subsuquent changes are spaced further out, but even for those, if you missed by a bit and performance wasn't suffering, I wouldn't sweat it.

If the fluid was clean (not green tinted) and the tractor had been and still is functioning normally I wouldn't stress about it, however if there was evidence of water contamination (green tint) or problems with performance I'd like do another service on the tractor at the beginning of next mowing season as a "flush." O:r when you get to 400 hours. But as has been previously mentioned, so long as operation is normal before an after it's unlikely anything will be amiss.

The Satch said:

I think it's really up to the operator. I doubt you did any damage, it just would have been better to change at 200, especially as the first change, as you are removing any manufacturing debris. Subsuquent changes are spaced further out, but even for those, if you missed by a bit and performance wasn't suffering, I wouldn't sweat it.

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i did the first one at 180, and the filter and magnet were very clean. the overdue one was done at 495, and the filter and magnet were clean.

MattL said:

If the fluid was clean (not green tinted) and the tractor had been and still is functioning normally I wouldn't stress about it, however if there was evidence of water contamination (green tint) or problems with performance I'd like do another service on the tractor at the beginning of next mowing season as a "flush." O:r when you get to 400 hours. But as has been previously mentioned, so long as operation is normal before an after it's unlikely anything will be amiss.

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i should have paid more attention to the color. i have the old oil and will check it, but it was collected in a pan that had a lot of debris and remnants of various past oil changes.

we get a lot of humidity in maryland, so much that i have permanently removed the drain plug from my air compressor, and I still get drips of water from my air tools.

AJgrn78 said:

Unless the oil was milky and contaminated with water, or loaded with contaminants or metal shavings, I would say no harm done.

I can guarantee a huge % of these machines go waaaaaay over the sheduled service on the hydro, if they get changed at all.

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thank, the oil was definitely not milky.

KeyboardJungle said:

i should have paid more attention to the color. i have the old oil and will check it, but it was collected in a pan that had a lot of debris and remnants of various past oil changes.

we get a lot of humidity in maryland, so much that i have permanently removed the drain plug from my air compressor, and I still get drips of water from my air tools.

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Yea- I wouldn't stress about it. We've got the same humidity here in SE PA. No problems to report from a operational standpoint would be a good indicator to me.

I wouldn't sweat the hours running over the hydro change, since you had already performed the more critical "first change" which removes the break in oil and the break in debris that comes from all of the parts working together. I would make sure you service the front axle in a fluid change as well, because the front axle on these SCUTS seems to generate an inordinate amount of "debris" from the gears, etc. I change my front axle when I change my engine oil, which is every 150 hours or sooner.

One thing I have found is I would rather "over change" the fluid and filter than try and match the OEM schedule and have it end up reaching those times during inclement weather or in the middle of a time crunch project. For example, I will change the engine oil, hydro oil and front axle fluid when outfitting the tractor for snow removal, when the weather is still reasonable. I would rather be dealing with the fluids when the machine isn't in high demand, verses when I had to change the fluids on New Years eve day and there was a Heavy Snow warning. Being under the gun makes the whole thing more stressful and also, it was colder outside, etc.

There's not too much which usually goes "wrong" with the simple service, but not having the time constraints sure makes going past the intervals less stressful. Because of that, I would rather "short change" the service intervals than push them out.

One more thing, I would make sure to have the fluid and filters needed for the next service or even two in the garage at home. My friends in the small engine industry are seeing shortages of more and more common items, such as service gaskets, etc. Until the supply line is back to normal, I wouldn't want to find myself in the position of having to extend service intervals because you couldn't get the basic supplies you would need.

I was out at my John Deere dealer the other day. They normally have pallet loads of the HyGard and Low Viscosity Hygard just inside the front door of the dealer. The other day, they had maybe 15 of the 5 gallon pails between regular and low vis Hygard in total, when before, they always had a stack 6 feet high and two pallets wide of each fluid.

Just something to think about.

SulleyBear said:

I was out at my John Deere dealer the other day. They normally have pallet loads of the HyGard and Low Viscosity Hygard just inside the front door of the dealer. The other day, they had maybe 15 of the 5 gallon pails between regular and low vis Hygard in total, when before, they always had a stack 6 feet high and two pallets wide of each fluid.

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its harvest time. probably a lot of farmers doing maintenance either before or after harvest and before it gets cold.

SulleyBear said:

I wouldn't sweat the hours running over the hydro change, since you had already performed the more critical "first change" which removes the break in oil and the break in debris that comes from all of the parts working together. I would make sure you service the front axle in a fluid change as well, because the front axle on these SCUTS seems to generate an inordinate amount of "debris" from the gears, etc. I change my front axle when I change my engine oil, which is every 150 hours or sooner.

One thing I have found is I would rather "over change" the fluid and filter than try and match the OEM schedule and have it end up reaching those times during inclement weather or in the middle of a time crunch project. For example, I will change the engine oil, hydro oil and front axle fluid when outfitting the tractor for snow removal, when the weather is still reasonable. I would rather be dealing with the fluids when the machine isn't in high demand, verses when I had to change the fluids on New Years eve day and there was a Heavy Snow warning. Being under the gun makes the whole thing more stressful and also, it was colder outside, etc.

There's not too much which usually goes "wrong" with the simple service, but not having the time constraints sure makes going past the intervals less stressful. Because of that, I would rather "short change" the service intervals than push them out.

One more thing, I would make sure to have the fluid and filters needed for the next service or even two in the garage at home. My friends in the small engine industry are seeing shortages of more and more common items, such as service gaskets, etc. Until the supply line is back to normal, I wouldn't want to find myself in the position of having to extend service intervals because you couldn't get the basic supplies you would need.

I was out at my John Deere dealer the other day. They normally have pallet loads of the HyGard and Low Viscosity Hygard just inside the front door of the dealer. The other day, they had maybe 15 of the 5 gallon pails between regular and low vis Hygard in total, when before, they always had a stack 6 feet high and two pallets wide of each fluid.

Just something to think about.

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Thanks - All good points, and well taken. I’m going to stock up on fluids and filters and try to keep “two ahead”. I did my initial front axle service, but going forward I’ll follow the shorter interval as you suggest. I also do a coolant change every two years.

You pretty much hit the nail on the head re timing. I should have changed the hydraulic fluid earlier in the year when I changed the engine oil. It would have been a little bit early, but convenient. Once summer hit, it was either too hot or I had to use the machine. I’m caught up on everything (except service lubes) until about this time next year, but you can bet that I’ll take your advice do it all before the cold sets in next fall.

Firemark said:

You will be fine, the only thing that may have happened is the fluids/oils got a little dirtier but probably barely. It will all be remedied with your next service. Consider it a “luxury” problem. Do the service and enjoy the rig!

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thanks for these words of wisdom - this will make that frustrating job of greasing the front ujoint a lot more tolerable!

several things damage or contaminate hydraulic fluid ......heat...moisture...debris....

hydrostat tractors with low volume reservoirs obviously would be more suseptical to all of those

first one is the most critical due to component break-in and inherent debris from the manufacturing process

later ones are usually suseptical to over heating damage or moisture damage from heat cool cycles

if i remember right the Hydraulic service interval on my 5105m is 600hrs so actual time really isnt a issue meaning the critical additives in your fluid didnt expire in just 200 or 400 hrs

Debris obviously is a fuction of filtering capacity and wear and tear and intrusion from IE disconnecting and reconnecting hoses etc

those are the issues .....its highly unlikely you experienced any damage of any sort especially if you use a quality oil with good additives vs cheap stuff with limited additives

ttazzman said:

several things damage or contaminate hydraulic fluid ......heat...moisture...debris....

hydrostat tractors with low volume reservoirs obviously would be more suseptical to all of those

first one is the most critical due to component break-in and inherent debris from the manufacturing process

later ones are usually suseptical to over heating damage or moisture damage from heat cool cycles

if i remember right the Hydraulic service interval on my 5105m is 600hrs so actual time really isnt a issue meaning the critical additives in your fluid didnt expire in just 200 or 400 hrs

Debris obviously is a fuction of filtering capacity and wear and tear and intrusion from IE disconnecting and reconnecting hoses etc

those are the issues .....its highly unlikely you experienced any damage of any sort especially if you use a quality oil with good additives vs cheap stuff with limited additives

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thanks. yes, i only use JD fluids and filters. im sure that there are good alternatives as well as substandard ones, but the peace of mind and not having to try figure what is suitable and what isn’t is worth a few extra dollars once every year or two.