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Discussion Starter #1
So I sometimes breeze through YouTube and watch video's of tractor stuff, surprised I know, but it drives me nuts when I see so many people slamming implements to ground. Why is that so many people don't utilize the ROD valve. :dunno: I adjust mine with each different implement I put on, am I just different, what does everyone else do?
 

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So I sometimes breeze through YouTube and watch video's of tractor stuff, surprised I know, but it drives me nuts when I see so many people slamming implements to ground. Why is that so many people don't utilize the ROD valve. :dunno: I adjust mine with each different implement I put on, am I just different, what does everyone else do?
I'm with ya...

I would like to think that many may not know that it's even a "thing". I change the ROD depending on the implement being used at the time; e.g. the snow blower weights a ton, so it get's a slower drop rat than the fertilizer spreader that empty, weighs next to nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I admit I don't adjust it on my 1025r. I played with once or twice and didn't see a huge change in the drop rate. Maybe I just didn't turn it enough? :dunno:
Well, I can tell you on my 2025 that with the heavier implements ( like a tiller) I barely open it, but if I left it there with my box blade or chisel plows on I can eat a sandwich waiting for them to finally make contact with the ground.
 

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Messiks just did a video on the use of this, I’ll find a link later if no one beats me to it.
 

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I adjusted mine 7 years ago when I first got it and only had the rear blower. Now with a BB and ballast box, I don't think to change it as the ballast stays up and the bb is light enough its not an issue. Plus, I just use the handle to lower any implement at an acceptable rate.
 

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I think part of an issue like this is about reading the owner’s manual. I am just amazed at what questions get asked around here which are plainly in the manual. I want to so badly say RTFM but bite my tongue.

And if/when I do say something about the manual a lot of these people will admit to not reading it. You just bought a $20k machine and you don’t even read the manual?

Whenever I buy anything - even something for $50 - I download the manual and read through it so I am somewhat familiar with it before it even arrives. Then will go through it again with it in front of me to check out all the features.

Same thing happens on pickup forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think part of an issue like this is about reading the owner’s manual. I am just amazed at what questions get asked around here which are plainly in the manual. I want to so badly say RTFM but bite my tongue.

And if/when I do say something about the manual a lot of these people will admit to not reading it. You just bought a $20k machine and you don’t even read the manual?

Whenever I buy anything - even something for $50 - I download the manual and read through it so I am somewhat familiar with it before it even arrives. Then will go through it again with it in front of me to check out all the features.

Same thing happens on pickup forums.
I'm with ya...

I would like to think that many may not know that it's even a "thing". I change the ROD depending on the implement being used at the time; e.g. the snow blower weights a ton, so it get's a slower drop rat than the fertilizer spreader that empty, weighs next to nothing.
I'm game to think you are both right.
 

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So I sometimes breeze through YouTube and watch video's of tractor stuff, surprised I know, but it drives me nuts when I see so many people slamming implements to ground. Why is that so many people don't utilize the ROD valve. :dunno: I adjust mine with each different implement I put on, am I just different, what does everyone else do?
The Dealer's Customer Orientation should cover this, and all of the other basic points. The dealer should also point out to the customer were to find this material(and other relevant operation) in the manual.
 

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My neighbor is a great guy and he picked up a nice older 4 something (looks very similar to a 2023). He bought a land pride box blade and I watched him keep trying to feather the three point and rocking and rolling the tractor so I showed him the rod knob and explained its function but he never did adjust it. Mechanically savvy otherwise, can't understand the reluctance?
 

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I think part of an issue like this is about reading the owner’s manual. I am just amazed at what questions get asked around here which are plainly in the manual. I want to so badly say RTFM but bite my tongue.

And if/when I do say something about the manual a lot of these people will admit to not reading it. You just bought a $20k machine and you don’t even read the manual?

Whenever I buy anything - even something for $50 - I download the manual and read through it so I am somewhat familiar with it before it even arrives. Then will go through it again with it in front of me to check out all the features.

Same thing happens on pickup forums.
In my case, I did read the manual (I'm like that too), and I knew of the knob and its purpose. And I have read plenty of posts on here about people whose 3 point hitch wouldn't go down, with the inevitable "try the RoD knob."

I experimented with it and saw no significant change in the rate. Maybe I really didn't turn it far enough. :dunno: Oh well. Like Jester_2320, I just use the handle to lower it slowly.
 

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In my case, I did read the manual (I'm like that too), and I knew of the knob and its purpose. And I have read plenty of posts on here about people whose 3 point hitch wouldn't go down, with the inevitable "try the RoD knob."

I experimented with it and saw no significant change in the rate. Maybe I really didn't turn it far enough. :dunno: Oh well. Like Jester_2320, I just use the handle to lower it slowly.
There is only a small amount of adjustment - just from the closed point and maybe 1/2 turn. Raise your 3-point hitch all the way up with something on it then close the valve all the way. Try dropping the hitch and it shouldn't move. Then turn the valve open just a slight bit - maybe 1/8 turn and try it again. Keep doing that and you will get the idea.

It's no different than a water spigot - like an outside hose bib. All it takes is to crack it open to get some flow. How much you open it will be determined by how much weight is on the hitch.
 

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I experimented with it and saw no significant change in the rate. Maybe I really didn't turn it far enough. :dunno: Oh well. Like Jester_2320, I just use the handle to lower it slowly.
I find that with the ROD valve open, it is almost impossible to slowly (aka smoothly) lower a heavy implement as it will lower a bit jerky as you move the rockshaft lever.

To verify if your ROD valve is working properly first raise your 3PH all the way up with an implement attached, any implement will do - even an empty iMatch. Turn the ROD knob clockwise until it gets tight - GENTLY tight. At that point the 3PH should be locked and if you move the rock shaft lever the 3PH should stay in the raised position. With the rock shaft lever still in the DOWN position, very slowly turn the ROD knob counter clockwise just a hair until the implement just begins to lower. You should be able to turn it clockwise again to freeze the movement of the 3PH and implement. SLOWLY turn the knob counter clockwise until the implement lowers at the speed you want. It probably won't even require a full turn. The adjustment should allow for even a fully loaded ballast box to lower at a speed anywhere from barely being able to tell it is moving all the way to instantly slamming to the ground (and everything in between).
 

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I think part of an issue like this is about reading the owner’s manual. I am just amazed at what questions get asked around here which are plainly in the manual. I want to so badly say RTFM but bite my tongue.

...
The Dealer's Customer Orientation should cover this, and all of the other basic points. The dealer should also point out to the customer were to find this material(and other relevant operation) in the manual.
To be honest, the JD owners manual is not the easiest to follow. When I bought mine, they dropped it off and asked, "Do you have any questions." At the time, I had not read the manual, and really didn't know what to ask. That night I read the manual cover to cover, but there were still some questions that required the assistance of the GTT members.

Hopefully this, and other posts like it, will help educate the next generation of tractor owners.
 

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Hang on, let me put my flame suit on....
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Pants.
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Jacket.
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Mask.
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Where is this located on a 3038E? I watched Messicks the video a while back shortly after it was posted. I need to go sniff around my tractor...
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I'm ready for my roasting.....

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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I have found that I only need to turn my valve one half a revolution going between an empty Imatch and a 550 lb tiller.
 

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I find that with the ROD valve open, it is almost impossible to slowly (aka smoothly) lower a heavy implement as it will lower a bit jerky as you move the rockshaft lever.
That's because the rockshaft control does not control the rate of flow. It just controls an on-off valve. Raising the control lever sets an actuator that opens a valve to raise the rockshaft and a mechanical feedback rod attached to the rockshaft closes it when it reaches the same position as the actuator. The only control over speed is with the rate of drop knob that controls flow out of the rockshaft cylinder and the rate of ascent lever (if the tractor has one) that controls flow into it.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have found that I only need to turn my valve one half a revolution going between an empty Imatch and a 550 lb tiller.
Same here, like I said, barely cracked open with my tiller on, maybe a 1/4 with box blade.
 
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