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Discussion Starter #1
Hi could someone help me find a suitcase ballast and weights for my 1023e that also has a 2inch hitch. I want maximum weight I can put on one or two rows and how much it would cost . See pic attached I was warned by a few members to get ballast before doing stuff like this! Looking to get a good deal because I know shipping is expensive thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how many weights can fit on a single row of the titan suitcase thats $130? heavy hitch is going to be $1000 before shipping for around 600 lbs .
 

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That dual row heavy hitch is only 300 and some change, where do you get $1k? Is that from all the weights you want as well? I like Heavy Hitch and have one but I didn't buy weights from them.

If you want to buy suitcase weights you can order them through Lowes or HD and have them delivered to the store and save on shipping. They used to be quite bit cheaper than going through the Deere dealer. I have not priced them in several years so they may be expensive now or discontinued that, not sure. If they still do it, just have them shipped to the store and pick them up. These were for the 42lb weights, not sure if you can get the 70lbs one from there.

For a 1 series, while you can have two rows of ballast, you can get away with one row 8 42lb weights. That's what I had on my SCUT.

Using suitcase weights is one of the more expensive ways of getting ballast, particularly if you want a 2 inch receiver.
 
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My Deere dealer was willing to match the price of Home Depot or Lowe's on weights. It never hurts to ask.
 

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The heavy hitch is the way to, but if you are on a budget, you might be able to get one made local at a fab shop. As for the weights, search FB market place and Craigslist for used ones. I scored six, 42 pound weights for $200 and they looked brand new.
That's a pretty good deal. People always seem to price their suitcase weights around here like they are gold or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
That dual row heavy hitch is only 300 and some change, where do you get $1k? Is that from all the weights you want as well? I like Heavy Hitch and have one but I didn't buy weights from them.

If you want to buy suitcase weights you can order them through Lowes or HD and have them delivered to the store and save on shipping. They used to be quite bit cheaper than going through the Deere dealer. I have not priced them in several years so they may be expensive now or discontinued that, not sure. If they still do it, just have them shipped to the store and pick them up. These were for the 42lb weights, not sure if you can get the 70lbs one from there.

For a 1 series, while you can have two rows of ballast, you can get away with one row 8 42lb weights. That's what I had on my SCUT.

Using suitcase weights is one of the more expensive ways of getting ballast, particularly if you want a 2 inch receiver.
If you buy the offset ballast with 8x 70 lbs your at $950 before shipping for 600lbs. So it’s going to be $1100 with shipping from heavy hitch... I guess the real question is do I need 600 lbs or 350 appx weight for the ballast .. that the difference between going all 70 lbs or all 41
 

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If you buy the offset ballast with 8x 70 lbs your at $950 before shipping for 600lbs. So it’s going to be $1100 with shipping from heavy hitch... I guess the real question is do I need 600 lbs or 350 appx weight for the ballast .. that the difference between going all 70 lbs or all 41
I've got the one row of 41s with filled rear tires and it's plenty for me and my 1025R. I think day in and day out you will get tired of messing with the extra weight. If you think you need more get a quick hitch and push the heavy hitch back a few inches, and then put a heavy ball hitch in the receiver.
You still should run the loader as close to the ground as possible. I ran my tractor without any counter weight for the first few years a got use to operating it on three wheels because I couldn't afford it. Now that I finally got the one row of 41s I'm in hog heaven.
 
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If you buy the offset ballast with 8x 70 lbs your at $950 before shipping for 600lbs. So it’s going to be $1100 with shipping from heavy hitch... I guess the real question is do I need 600 lbs or 350 appx weight for the ballast .. that the difference between going all 70 lbs or all 41
As has been stated above just order the hitch from them-pickup the weights locally at HD, Lowe’s, JD, CL, etc. no reason to pay a premium for them AND pay for shipment.
 

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My Lowe’s/Depot sells the 42# weights for $100 each. I’d need minimum 10 plus another 100# of receiver to equal my ballast box. That would cost me $1000 for weights and $320 for the double receiver to fit more than eight weights.

Ballast box is cheaper and can be outfitted to be more useful. The heavy hitch is more of a show piece
 

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While I agree a ballast box is cheaper and does its job effectively, I wouldn't call the Heavy Hitch setup a show piece. TTWT has a video about the advantage of the HH vs a ballast box when loading the tractor on a trailer, most noticeably many BB's will drag and dig into the ground when going up the ramps. Now this may not happen with some trailers/ramps, but the quick change in angle on many ramps will cause this. He showed how the HH setup isn't so prone to dragging as the clearance is much greater.

Just something to keep in mind. One that doesn't trailer their tractor much, if ever, a ballast box is usually just fine. If you haul it around to different jobs, a HH is something to seriously consider.
 

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My ballast box is home made and is the same width but taller and narrower than Deere’s. That is because I use mine for snow removal and getting around sidewalks and driveways the less length the better.

I’ve never had any issues with my ballast box and trailer. The quick hitch for front implements usually scrubs or my rear blade hits but never issues with the ballast box.

The previous owners of my property ran what you’d think is their own landfill and I found and filled my BB with dumbbells and iron weights
 

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I've built two ballast boxes, the first one I made with suitcase weights. When I was building the one I documented here, I considered using suitcase weights again. I used full size 100lb suitcase weights in the first one, and those sell for $1 a pound everyday, and if you can do better than that it's a win. I was watching CL for another set, and pondering my design when I got to the point I figured out I could spend $11 and get 100lbs of portland cement. That sealed it for me, I could spend the money on the fabrication side and just use cement. The down side is mine is not adjustable in weight. I am sure that there is a reason some people have to adjust their ballast weight, I have never considered why I would want to have less than the max capacity of lift I can have. Even the suitcase ballast box I built, I never took weight off. Maybe if you have a trailer capacity issue, you'd want it lighter. I'd just get a proper trailer. I am on the larger end of the utility tractor range, so maybe the adjustable ballast issue is lost on me because I have the capacity to carry it and not lose performance any other way.
 

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I have factory (I think) wheel weights on my '05 4720 LCUT. and I almost always have an 850 lb. RFM hanging from the 3-pt lift arms each time that I use the FEL, so extra rear ballast has ever been on my must-have list; the center of gravity is shifted rearwards with the mower attached. Balance issues have (so far) not been an issue with this arrangement.

Brian


Hi could someone help me find a suitcase ballast and weights for my 1023e that also has a 2inch hitch. I want maximum weight I can put on one or two rows and how much it would cost . See pic attached I was warned by a few members to get ballast before doing stuff like this! Looking to get a good deal because I know shipping is expensive thanks
 
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I would not say a rear weight bracket is for show! If it is home made like the one I had on my JD 400 or one bought from HH, I think it is more versatile than a ballast box. You can easily move the weights in seconds and if no weights are on the bracket it too can be removed by hand and easily stored. Full disclosure, I have never owned a ballast box...
 

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As I said before I turned my heavy hitch around backwards and put the weights on backwards. I can fit more on the trailer this way and I'm less likely to back into something when I'm on a job, it works the best for me.

As far as all the weight talk. I'm pretty sure I got all my stuff from Heavy Hitch at the same time. The knock off weights were cheaper than the Deere brand weights and I got the heavy hitch and the 2" draw bar hitch for the rear frame.

Got it all at the same time and I think freight was only $150 to ship it the the local Fastenal dealer. I thought is was a good deal. I forget what I paid for the weights but I want to say around $45 each.

I omost forgot I also got the front weight bracket too. This way I can put the weights on the front, take the loader off when I have the Aera Vator on the back and still some what keep the front wheels on the ground. I wouldn't have the option with a ballast box. Some times the loader is in the way when Aerating yards and it's less top heavy with the loader off and the weights down low on the front.
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Get the heavy hitch and some weights. I have eight of the 70# weights on BadAss. Works great!
 

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