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I'm in the market for a solution to work my driveway and debating on whether the rear blade or the box blade would be the best attachment for my 1026r. At one point I was sold on the box blade as I was going to rely on it as ballast too. However, I have since picked up some used 70# suit case weights along with a heavy hitch bracket so ballast solution is solved when using snowblower and FEL now.

So with that said, I'm at odds as to what attachment would likely work best for me to grade my driveway. Driveway is a winding, steep, 250' long driveway made up of a gravel base with a topping of driveway mix (crushed stone & p-stone). The top of driveway has about 800 sq ft of landing area in front of the garage doors. I usually have to bring in at least 1 tandem load of driveway mix every 2 or 3 years mostly due to crowning from the top of the descent to 3/4 of the way down. The crowning gets bad enough where my lower clearance vehicles will drag.

I have a buddy that purchased a 60" box blade when he purchased his new 2025R JD a few years back. He got the box blade for working his driveway. He has since told me that he now thinks a rear blade would have been a better attachment.

Wondering what others would suggest for an attachment for this specific use. I really wouldn't have any other use for either attachment that I could think of at the moment. I have a snow solution with both front blade and blower.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions/recommendations.
 

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I guess the question I would ask is whether your crown issue is from the center of the driveway heaving, from the tire-track lines sinking or from gravel being kicked out of the driveway entirely?
 

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Never buy anything you can borrow.That said I'd talk with your buddy to see if you have the rear blade and he has the box blade to borrow as needed between the two of you.
 

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gravel drive

Trust me on this that a scraper is good for rough work a box blade is great to move and fill but for a lever and almost perfect surface a level plane is the only way to achieve a great lever surface. You can crown the drive with the blade then finish with the plane
 

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As Alton Brown used to say on the TV show "Good Eats",,,
there is no room in the kitchen for a uni-tasker.
A land plane is pretty much a uni-tasker,,

That said,,, I may build a land plane,,, but, at the price they ask, I will never purchase one.

My driveway is 1/4 mile long,, I have maintained it since 1982,,, 34 years come April.

What I have learned is it is important to keep it undisturbed as much as possible.
Crowned, no pot holes, stable.

NO #57 gravel on any part of my driveway that has any grade, up, down, or to the side,,,
#57 gravel never settles,, it is always loose,,, forever!!
I do not like #57's on curves, either.

I do use a product called mill run,,, it is like 57's with many other size stones also.
The mill run can not be put down "thin",
probably about 3" is the minimum it will tailgate out of a truck.

I have a box blade, and a regular blade,,, and I have resisted acquiring a land plane.

My go to tool is the blade,,,



A roller is my other really liked tool.,,,

 
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As Alton Brown used to say on the TV show "Good Eats",,,
there is no room in the kitchen for a uni-tasker.
A land plane is pretty much a uni-tasker,,

That said,,, I may build a land plane,,, but, at the price they ask, I will never purchase one.

My driveway is 1/4 mile long,, I have maintained it since 1982,,, 34 years come April.

What I have learned is it is important to keep it undisturbed as much as possible.
Crowned, no pot holes, stable.

NO #57 gravel on any part of my driveway that has any grade, up, down, or to the side,,,
#57 gravel never settles,, it is always loose,,, forever!!
I do not like #57's on curves, either.

I do use a product called mill run,,, it is like 57's with many other size stones also.
The mill run can not be put down "thin",
probably about 3" is the minimum it will tailgate out of a truck.

I have a box blade, and a regular blade,,, and I have resisted acquiring a land plane.

My go to tool is the blade,,,



A roller is my other really liked tool.,,,

I agree the price is way to much. A couple of 4 foot long 4-6 inch C channel for the runners and three cross pieces at the width you like. Then a 3 pt hook up but make the top connection a chain for a floating connection and your in the business. Add corner bracing. Not hard to make one at all It does not move a lot of gravel like a box but is not intended to. Have you ever considered using slag as it breaks down it back very hard.

Also have seen recently when rebuilding roads here they are using a large rototiller and adding dry concrete to the mix to stabilize the base better
 

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I agree the price is way to much. A couple of 4 foot long 4-6 inch C channel for the runners and three cross pieces at the width you like. Then a 3 pt hook up but make the top connection a chain for a floating connection and your in the business. Add corner bracing. Not hard to make one at all It does not move a lot of gravel like a box but is not intended to.
Have you ever considered using slag as it breaks down it back very hard.

Also have seen recently when rebuilding roads here they are using a large rototiller and adding dry concrete to the mix to stabilize the base better
There is no slag available around here,, I have used shale (slate?) it is randomly available,,
at the supplier's "whim",,, when they feel like dynamiting,,, :laugh:

I did consider a Harley Rake,,,



In my case,,
I can buy probably 10 years worth of mill run for my driveway for the cost of a Harley rake,,, :dunno:
 
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I have a blade and a box scraper with adjustable scarifiers. I use both, but could Not do without the box scraper.


Sent from the mountains
 

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I'm please with my box blade , it doubles as a ballast weight and with the tines and can grade with it , garden also. It's a multiple choice attachment.


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gravel drive

Do not get me wrong Each attachment was designed for a reason. The back blade the box blade the back blade with a rear gauge wheel a pull type box blade (scraper) a pull type grader blade. a leveling plane a rake. Each does a specific thing and can be used for many different jobs. But some are better than others at a given job. That is why so many have built and designed them. We each have our favorites We all have our favorite ones to use as we are comfortable with. I am just stating from my past experiences and likes is all
 

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I'd suggest a box blade that weighs at least 450 to 500 pounds, with blades on the "inside" and "outside" of the box.

I'd also suggest installing the adjustable (threaded) lift link on the right and left rock shafts. This way you can adjust the "crown" cut to meet your needs without creating a situation where you might bend the lift links with too much load or bind them up.

Set the top link "short" to cut, grade, (move material) or set it "long" to float and level material (make sure to adjust your draft!)

Good luck!
 

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I maintain a 1/4 mile driveway that is 20% grade in places. I did it with borrowed box blade and tractor. Would have to hire road grader once or twice per year to maintain crown for drainage. Last two years with my 44R and median duty angle blade. Have bent up the angle blade but able to maintain crown. My experience is steep driveways with crown needed are difficult with a box blade. Angle blade much easier to shape. Can get a smoother surface with box blade though. YMMV.


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rear blade

I maintain a 1/4 mile driveway that is 20% grade in places. I did it with borrowed box blade and tractor. Would have to hire road grader once or twice per year to maintain crown for drainage. Last two years with my 44R and median duty angle blade. Have bent up the angle blade but able to maintain crown. My experience is steep driveways with crown needed are difficult with a box blade. Angle blade much easier to shape. Can get a smoother surface with box blade though. YMMV.


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I agree that it's easier to build and maintain a crown with the rear blade, particularly if the road is more than twice as wide as the box blade. It takes more practice to get a great surface with the rear blade but it can be done. One thing that a rear blade has trouble with is organic matter like leaves, grass clumps etc.

Treefarmer
 
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