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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for a kit or any advice on using the third spool for rear hydraulics for a disc mower . I can't find kit lvbm18820 anywhere.. can you modify a 4710 kit to work or any Suggestions thanks jws4700
 

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Welcome to GTT,

If you are a semi-talented fabricator you could make the kit yourself, the actual valve is already there. You might be able to get some of the hard to make components through the parts department.

724036






The kit for the 4710 is quite different:

724037
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am willing to try to make my own, the dealer is no help. The kit is 280.00 an just getting bracket an bell crank an cable is over 300.oo,
 

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It took me a while, but I found this thread on TBN that I remembered from a few years ago-not that same machine but it may give you ideas:




Have you set up a search on ebay?
 

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I just put a third valve with rear remote on a 4700 , it was all available thru Deere still all tho they’re pretty proud of it and the knob took 3 weeks to get.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I priced the kit with individual parts and it was 1263.00,I am going to try Kenny's method, but i will be asking questions! Thanks
 

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I just put a third valve with rear remote on a 4700 , it was all available thru Deere still all tho they’re pretty proud of it and the knob took 3 weeks to get.
Where did you find this? This week, my JD dealer said that the kit shows up in the system, he tried to order it, but then came back NLA. I did order a used PowerBeyond kit from a salvage yard, which I figured I could use to power an aftermarket hydralulic block, but would prefer the the OEM JD 3rd SCV if possible.
 

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Good morning:

I've had some luck on eBay, Craigslist and other on-line classified ad sites finding similar items for tractors of this age. A quick search of eBay led me to this: JOHN DEERE SINGLE SCV KIT LVB25086 | eBay

Based on a glance through the parts diagrams for the 4700 single SCV and 4700 3rd SCV diagrams, you might be able to use this to solve your problem. E.g., the part numbers for the oil lines appear to be the same. Of course, you're likely to end up with a valve left over.
 

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Where did you find this? This week, my JD dealer said that the kit shows up in the system, he tried to order it, but then came back NLA. I did order a used PowerBeyond kit from a salvage yard, which I figured I could use to power an aftermarket hydralulic block, but would prefer the the OEM JD 3rd SCV if possible.
Straight from Deere. The price above was right it was 12-1300 dollars. Maybe it was the last one? This was just before Christmas also.
 

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Straight from Deere. The price above was right it was 12-1300 dollars. Maybe it was the last one? This was just before Christmas also.
For a 4700?
Last made in 2003?
The kit was only about $300 when it was available...
 

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It took me a while, but I found this thread on TBN that I remembered from a few years ago-not that same machine but it may give you ideas:

This is great info Kenny, thanks!!! I was surprised to learn that my 4700 had a 3rd scv built right into the loader valve. I do have the rear scv and was just following lines when laying under the tractor getting acquainted.

I plan to T off the line and add a set of lines for front uses like the TBN thread.
 

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For a 4700?
Last made in 2003?
The kit was only about $300 when it was available...
All of the individual parts within the kit are still available. So, that high price of $1200 is for “the kit” assembled by the parts dept. I got the same quote after we found the original kit for $300 was NLA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am looking for a kit or any advice on using the third spool for rear hydraulics for a disc mower . I can't find kit lvbm18820 anywhere.. can you modify a 4710 kit to work or any Suggestions thanks jws4700
Update, I looked at wuntun's pic. On his homemade 3rd scv valve hook up, and was able to modify his to fit my jd4700. I took Kennyd's advice and ordered a bell crank like on the first 2 spool valves and cut it down to fit the the bell crank bar, it was 3/16 too wide, I then cut the ears off bell crank and welded 18'' of round stock to bell crank body. I then preformed round stock top go over valve but under seat flashing and up through slot for a draft control which is only 3/8''wide. I then heated up the last 6''of round bar and flattened it down to 5/16 thickness. I then installed on bell crank bar and took the ear I cut off and installed on 3rd scv and lined it up on round stock and locked it down with a small pair of visegrips and removed pin and bell crank bar to remove round stock with ear locked on and welded it in place and put it all back together. And it works fine, total cost so far 19.00 for bellcrank, don't order the one for kit, it is 85 dollars. Now I need help to finish the plumbing jd wouldn't give me size of fittings and I would like to finish like wuntun did, use tee fitting that go into bottom of scv valve an put in rear and front remotes. I will try to attach pic. There is two plugs in scr valve, what size an type fitting going to it and then tee fitting and finally hose sets and couplers. Appreciate any help on plumbing! Pics to follow
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I'll will research those fitting sizes later if no one else does before I can get to it. The JD guys probably have no clue that's why they won't tell you.

Great job! (y)
 

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Which fittings do you need info on? Either a P/N or key number from a parts drawing and I can try and help.
If the one at the SVC, key 20; It's P/N 38H5003. Straight adapter fitting, valve side, which is Metric, M18, tube side 08 ORFS. 08 is also 1/2" So M18 x 08 ORFS
The other one at the quick coupler, key 10, is P/N 38H1161. Straight adapter fitting; 08 ORFS x 08 SAE straight ORB, so 08 ORFS x 08 SAE
 

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I think he needs these Z5, #28:

From JDParts:
725491




725492
 

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I found some Tee's at DHH, but I have my doubts that they will turn into the ports because of their size without interfering with the other lines or each other.:


So I think you will need two straight adapters, then short hoses, then your tee's, then hoses to the from and rear.
 

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I would use straight adapter fittings, then if you have enough room, add a Tee. Get a Tee with a female swivel and two males. You can get the female swivel on the run (FS6602) or on the branch (FS6600)
I am guessing you will want it on the run.
If you do NOT have room at the valve, I would do as kennyd suggests, add a hose and install the tee, then more hose. I would get hoses with female ORFS swivels. So the Tee needs to be all males, a face seal union Tee (FS2603)
NOTE the FSxxxx numbers are the fitting type, you still have to specify size.
 
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