Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 25hp subcompact with 700lb lifting force on the Cat 1 hitch.

I am looking for a rear blade with angle, offset and tilt for grading a driveway with a crown (it is steep in places).

If you have such a system, I would appreciate knowing your experience, your blade make, model, weight and length. Any handling issues etc.

Thanks, Dave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,068 Posts
Are you looking for a scrape blade or box blade? Most any scrape type rear blade will be adjustable angle, box blades by their design will not. If you're asking about side to side tilt, that's not often done on the blade. You would use a hydraulic side link on your tractor's three point hitch to accomplish that.

As for offset, I don't think I've ever seen a blade that you could adjust in relation to the centerline of the tractor. The force pulling on the outside edge of the blade in that scenario would probably push the tractor around, or cause a pull type blade to try and travel in a circle.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,958 Posts
Are you looking for a scrape blade or box blade? Most any scrape type rear blade will be adjustable angle, box blades by their design will not. If you're asking about side to side tilt, that's not often done on the blade. You would use a hydraulic side link on your tractor's three point hitch to accomplish that.

As for offset, I don't think I've ever seen a blade that you could adjust in relation to the centerline of the tractor. The force pulling on the outside edge of the blade in that scenario would probably push the tractor around, or cause a pull type blade to try and travel in a circle.
Of course your tractor comes standard with a manual tilt adjustment on the 3PH as well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,068 Posts
Of course your tractor comes standard with a manual tilt adjustment on the 3PH as well.
This is true. I forgot about it, because I never used it. I'd suspect most modern tractor owners don't, either. It requires getting off the tractor and shortening or lengthening the threaded side link by hand, and in an awful lot of cases those threads don't move easily.

That's one thing I miss about the older machines. My old Fords and Farmalls had a gearbox with a crank on one of the sidelinks. All you had to do was lift the hitch and turn the crank to adjust the tilt. Not as nice as the hydraulic links, but a far sight better than the manual stuff I see on most tractors today.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,099 Posts
I have a 25hp subcompact with 700lb lifting force on the Cat 1 hitch.

I am looking for a rear blade with angle, offset and tilt for grading a driveway with a crown (it is steep in places).

If you have such a system, I would appreciate knowing your experience, your blade make, model, weight and length. Any handling issues etc.

Thanks, Dave
David,

I have a 2305 SCUT with about the same Cat 1 capacity. I also have a 5 foot rear blade that meets your spec's (that is also for sale, pictures in the For Sale thread). It angles, tilts, and has an offset. To offset you have to unbolt the blade and move it, then bolt it back on. Not hard to setup, but not something you want to change frequently. It will offset to either side.

I used the blade for what you're intending to do. I had 500 or so yards of gravel drive that I used it to maintain. In the spring I would use the tilt and offset to scrape the gravel back off the edges and out of the ditch from the winter snow plowing. Then I would re-center the blade and re-spread the gravel and re-build the crown.

The tilt is limited to 30 and 45 degrees. That is too much for a crown. For the crown I would use the level adjustment on the righthand lift arm, adjusting it for an inch or two, set the blade angle and I was off an running.

I have a "limited" CAT 1 hitch. This means that I cannot lift something as high as a normal CAT 1 since the draft arms are lower to the ground. With this blade I can only lift it about a foot off of the ground with the blade level. With the blade tilted 30 degrees, the blade tip is barely off of the ground (on level ground). To grade the ditch with the blade offset and tilted I had to line it up, then tilt the blade, make the pass, then level the blade before pulling away from the angle. I did have intentions of putting hydraulic angle and tilt on the blade with hoses to connect to my SCV ports that would make this much easier.... I can post some pictures of this if it helps.

The 5' blade was the perfect width for my 4' wide tractor.

As 56Ford mentioned, with the blade angled (and/or offset) I could only move loose material, like gravel. It did this very well. I could not "break" ground at the edge of the blade, or as mentioned it would pull the tractor. A light SCUT just doesn't have the weight. Now if the blade was evenly loaded across the span, then the tractor would pull well.

It did a great job for me mantaining my gravel drive. Since I no longer have a gravel drive it doesn't get much use. I attempted to use it to grade an exisiting ditch bank that was sodded, and uneven. I wanted to taper it into the yard. As 56Ford mentioned, my tractor didn't have the weight to do this. The blade was steering the tractor and trying to mantain an even cut was difficult. I bought a box blade. For ground breaking like I was trying to do, it works much better.

I also was able to use the blade for snow removal. I would offset it to the side and put it on a 45 degree angle. I would push snow with the front blade angled to the same side the blade was offset. The rear blade would carry the snow even further to the side, almost doubling the width of my pass. The pressure evened out between the front and rear blades so the tractor would mantain a straight line no problem.

In a nutshell, the rear blade worked really well to move and spread loose material.

I hope this answers your questions. If you have any other questions - I'll be glad to share what I know.

I don't know where you are located, but if you are interested in the blade I have, let me know and we might just be able to work something out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,099 Posts
Here is a picture of the blade I mentioned.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
892 Posts
Frontier also has a blade like that. I have an RB2060 and honestly I can't wait till it snows... ;)

Jim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,099 Posts
Frontier also has a blade like that. I have an RB2060 and honestly I can't wait till it snows... ;)

Jim
NEWT posted a reply to my For Sale add that he thought the Cub Cadet Model I have looked just like a RB1060 or RB2060. It is a well build blade.

Have fun in the snow with yours. :thumbup1gif:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
383 Posts
I have a Frontier 5' rear blade that I use for snow removal. I extended the blade at one side by one foot, and created an offset six foot blade without having to move it from its center position. I also added a rubber scraping edge because I have a black topped driveway. Here is my setup.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,099 Posts
Thanks for your comments rtgt, I appreciate all that you mentioned. The blade you have for sale, what is its make/model etc? What is its weight?

Thanks again,
Dave
It is labeled as a Cub Cadet. Not sure who it is actually made by. Aside from the 3 point mounting, it looks just like the Frontier RB2060.

The Model is 590-626-100.

The exact weight I do not know. It is somewhere in the area of 200 pounds. Not a problem to lift with my 2305, which has a similar capacity to what you posted.

Attached is a picture of the model / serial number.
 

Attachments

1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top