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Hopefully I am in the right forum here but I am planning to re-seed my entire lawn. As of right now not sure what grass is there and I have got the weeds pretty much under control. I know you can just spread topsoil over the entire lawn and seed with rake in etc...however, I have a 1025r and dying to get that more involved. I was thinking of tilling entire lawn as I have very uneven grounds that I would like to grade. Just looking for advice and best way to approach it.

Thanks!

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Hopefully I am in the right forum here but I am planning to re-seed my entire lawn. As of right now not sure what grass is there and I have got the weeds pretty much under control. I know you can just spread topsoil over the entire lawn and seed with rake in etc...however, I have a 1025r and dying to get that more involved. I was thinking of tilling entire lawn as I have very uneven grounds that I would like to grade. Just looking for advice and best way to approach it.

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I've been thinking of doing the same, last summer decimated our lawn, now I have large patches that I'm not sure will fill in. We are having hotter and drier summers, and I'm going to rip and restore with a more drought tolerant variety of lawn grass.

My plan of attack is: 1) about a month or maybe a month and a half before seeding, mow the grass as short as possible, remove the clippings. 2) two applications of roundup about a 10 days apart to kill everything, 3) lightly till the soil (~2"), 4) level the ground, 5) sow the seed, 6) work the seed into the soil.

My start time will begin around July 20th or maybe August 1st, I'll see what the weather pattern looks like. Last fall I applied seed around the middle of August and it say dry until early October. Some seed germinated, but not as well as I'd like.
 

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I was going to redo my lawn last fall, but things got in the way. So it is on my radar for this fall. I have had the best luck putting down seed after Thanksgiving. That trick was told to me by a professional lawn service guy. My plan is to use my rotary pull behind seeder to spread some seed, probably fescue, then disk it up, followed by harrowing it to smooth it out. My ground is very rough and that is part of the reason why I will be doing this. Secondly, I have very poor grass and that is the other reason. I will be killing two birds with one stone, using that old phrase. I am still undecided about running my 7 1/2 foot roller over it after the harrow.

Dave
 

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I will be watching this one as I too need a whole new lawn.
Most of my current "yard" has either been waste ground near the bar for the last 100 years or in hay crops.
 

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Count me in for following this one closely, I'd love to till and level my entire yard but the summers are a very busy time of the year for us. Maybe a fall job. A soil pulverizer would be the tool to have for this, burn it off with round up, till it to break up the sod and run a the pulverizer over it to level.
 

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Me too! I'm in the process of spreading a ton of fill. I've done 12 -15 loads so far and more coming as I type. My original 4 acre lot was a thick pine grove. last year I was in the process over grinding/removing over 120 stumps. Now there are large low spots. The town is ditching the road, so I asked about having it dumped in my yard. I've scraped a lot fo top soil before they started.
 

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Add me to the mix as well. My yard is terrible! I just ran the disk over a half acre of it and spread some seed and then hit it with the disk again to cover the seed.
It left the ground a little choppy but I'm hoping over time that it smooths over. The disk is all I have and my soil is primarily clay so it really needs to be broken up.
I have a lot of work to do! Interested to see how everyone tackles this and the ultimate outcome .
 

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Here is what i have done so far. . I did a test section.

I tilled it up. .probably about 4 or 6 inches deep. I know probably too deep but it was my 1st time using my new tiller. Looked like this when i was finished.
20180505_103940(0).jpg

then I used my push seeder and put 25 pounds of seed down (lesson here don't wait till after it rains to do this the seeder wont work correctly because of mud), Then I put some straw down.

11 days later it looked like this. getting so close..!!
20180530_171926.jpg

not sure if the weeds will come back since I didn't do the round up 1st. Still learning. I have lots more of my yard to do if this works at expected.
 

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Here is what i have done so far. . I did a test section.

I tilled it up. .probably about 4 or 6 inches deep. I know probably too deep but it was my 1st time using my new tiller. Looked like this when i was finished.


then I used my push seeder and put 25 pounds of seed down (lesson here don't wait till after it rains to do this the seeder wont work correctly because of mud), Then I put some straw down.

11 days later it looked like this. getting so close..!!


not sure if the weeds will come back since I didn't do the round up 1st. Still learning. I have lots more of my yard to do if this works at expected.
It's coming along just fine, and the weeds would come back with or without the round up. :nunu:
BTW, tilling is fun, so going a little deep is just more fun. :thumbup1gif:
 

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11 days later it looked like this. getting so close..!!

not sure if the weeds will come back since I didn't do the round up 1st. Still learning. I have lots more of my yard to do if this works at expected.
It's a fickle dance to seed when it's dry then pray that it rains, but not too much or too hard!!!! For 11 days, your new grass looks awesome!

Worry about the weeds when the turf is established...
 

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I've been thinking of doing the same, last summer decimated our lawn, now I have large patches that I'm not sure will fill in. We are having hotter and drier summers, and I'm going to rip and restore with a more drought tolerant variety of lawn grass.

My plan of attack is: 1) about a month or maybe a month and a half before seeding, mow the grass as short as possible, remove the clippings. 2) two applications of roundup about a 10 days apart to kill everything, 3) lightly till the soil (~2"), 4) level the ground, 5) sow the seed, 6) work the seed into the soil.

My start time will begin around July 20th or maybe August 1st, I'll see what the weather pattern looks like. Last fall I applied seed around the middle of August and it say dry until early October. Some seed germinated, but not as well as I'd like.
Around here they say spring or fall. Unless you want to beat yourself up watering it doesn't pay to do it in the middle of summer.
 

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Subscribed :good2:
 

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An old timer told me this...

Spray your entire lawn with roundup to kill everything. Make sure there is no "residual burndown" in your roundup of choice. Let it die...

Spread your grass seed.

Water the area 3x a day for 20 min each time for 2 weeks.

The dead grass shades the new seed and retains the water to help it grow.

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New grass solution

I hit the whole 1.5 acres with Roundup, waited 2weeks, levelled it with some fill and box blade (with scarifiers first), ran the chain garrow over it with tines down to collect the grass and large clods, flipped the chain garrow over to smooth and level it more, ran the tiller in 2 directions to churn it all and level some more. Then I seeded with a fescue mix and sand, followed by the chain harrow (tines up) to cover the seed. A 48" water filled roller (Agri-Supply) did a decent job of packing it down smoothly. Watering was a problem after the 3d day -- no rain, so we watered to keep it moist.

Yes, a lot of steps were taken, but the work paid off. Last September's efforts resulted in a lawn that our wedding reception guests called "a beautiful park". Weeds began to show in one section. We live in the country and birds, wind, etc., spread seeds. Tri-Mec knocked out the weeds. Weed and feed fertilizer has kept them out and now the problem is having to mow every 4 days to keep my wife happy.
 

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Is there a rule of thumb for how long you should wait to seed after Roundup?
 

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Is there a rule of thumb for how long you should wait to seed after Roundup?
We always wait at least 10-14 days when we spray our cover crop before spring tillage, the same would apply, you want to wait until everything has died off. Sometimes more sometimes less.
 

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Just as an FYI, last year around fall I redid two large sections in my lawn. The grass seemed to "take", in that it was thick enough it filled in the void. Unfortunately, this spring all that new grass was dead, and I was back to bare soil. Soil needs to remain warm to promote growth. A couple seed/peat moss applications this year, plus fertilizer, and it's taking back the soil nice and dense. Actually more-so then the rest of the lawn. :mocking:

Bear in mind, I regularly water and mulch my lawn, that definitely helps.
 

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I wouldn't even attempt to try and plant grass (especially cool season grasses) until late aug/ early September. By the time the grass germinates it will be trying to get established in the hottest part of the year when typically the grass starts to slow down and taper off due to heat. Only exception would be having in ground irrigation to water 2x a day.

Burning down a whole lawn with Gly. and then tilling and starting completely over from scratch is obviously an option but seems to me to be a very costly and labor intensive option unless there is absolutely no remnants of lawn and it is all weeds. If this is a route on taking, burn the lawn with herbicide, then till, level and pack, then water without any seed applied until new weeds sprout, then spray with glyphosate again to kill off the weeds, Scratch with a drag then seed. Tilling the soil will rotate the soil strata where thousands of seeds (ie.weeds) have been sitting for who knows how long and now you just moved them to the perfect depth where temp and sunlight will offer them the opportunity to finally sprout.

For doing a lawn renovation it's a little more than just throwing seeds. If it were me first thing I would do is get a soil test. There's places where you can send your sample of dirt and the will precisely tell what amendments need to be done. Second thing would be to take a shove and see how easy it is to penetrate the soil. If you can only get the shovel to down 3-4 inches with a hard foot on it then running a subsoiler might be a consideration to help give the roots some pathways. I tiller will work but its only getting you 6 inches of depth typically but that usually is sufficient for turf grass.

If I have a lawn thats just needs some rejuvenation than I definitely wouldn't start from scratch and kill everything. I would spray with either Quinclorac or use a granular herbicide with Trimec, level low spots with topsoil and let the lawn self procreate on its own. In the late fall I would overseed the whole lawn and let mother nature do the work for me by frost seeding.

Getting grass to grow isn't terribly difficult. The biggest culprits for failure is lack of moisture and planting too deep. Grass seed shouldn't be any deeper than quarter inch deep.
 
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