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Discussion Starter #1
If this should be in a different category feel free to move it.

A question to those who have a MMM with auto connect for their 1 series tractor and also move snow with it. I know to use the front snow blower you have to remove the auto connect linkage, but what about if I am using it with the 54" blade to plow snow? I was thinking that I would at least remove the PTO portion of the auto connect and leave the mower arms, but what do you folks think? Should I remove the mower lift arms as well?

THANKS
 

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The lift arms and pto connect can be removed in a mere 2 minutes by pulling 4 pins on the arms (no tools) and leaving it as a whole assembly. It wouldn't make sense to turn a wrench to remove the auto connect part and leave the arms in place. Just be sure to also remove the lift linkage too so they aren't just hanging there.

If you think you'll be climbing hills full of ice chunks it could get hung up on, the removal of the whole assembly is quick and painless.

(Edited to add the following) To clarify, here's a graphic of the mower lift linkages. If you pull pins 5 and 6 on both sides, the entire assembly (arms, rear draft, auto connect) will remove. Of course you have to disconnect the PTO shaft too. Be sure not to leave items 7 and 8 hanging and don't spin 8 because that affects your deck leveling. Next spring all you have to do it put 7/8 back on (with the round P shape facing the rear), attach the 4 pins and the PTO and you're good to go.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's what I think I will do. If it's that easy to remove I may as well and store it with the mower deck. Doesn't make sense to have all that hardware hanging there through winter. Who knows how much snow we will get and what I may get into with the tractor.

Thanks


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I have the blower, so I have to remove the mmm auto-connect parts. Its not hard to do.

But, I think it would be ok to leave the mmm parts on over winter. Just lock it in full up position.
 

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I don't have the auto connect deck - but I do remove the lift linkage every fall from my 2520 w/62D deck. Yeah, I know I could just tie it up, but just looking at the linkage hanging down underneath the 3-point arms makes me nervous. As said above it only takes 5 minutes to remove and install so I just do it for piece of mind. I had to replace on of the linkage arms the first year I had it (not related) and just that one arm is very expensive!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I don't have the auto connect deck - but I do remove the lift linkage every fall from my 2520 w/62D deck. Yeah, I know I could just tie it up, but just looking at the linkage hanging down underneath the 3-point arms makes me nervous. As said above it only takes 5 minutes to remove and install so I just do it for piece of mind. I had to replace on of the linkage arms the first year I had it (not related) and just that one arm is very expensive!
I guess for me the ground clearance on the 1 series isn't that much. Plus I have no idea what I will get into this winter when it comes to snow removal. last winter I ended up using my 24" walk behind snowblower to clear the actual street all the way to the stop sign. County wouldn't bother to plow it an let it pile up. After getting my car stuck twice I'd had it. The final straw was when they plowed the cross street and left a four foot high windrow across ours. One of my neighbors tried to go through with her car and you can all guess how well that worked. I ended up pushing her car out, then used my snowblower to clear her a path through. I then did the street from the stop sign to my driveway, about 150 yards long. Took me four hours.

If I don't need it on for plowing snow, why risk it being there as expensive as the auto connect parts are? Since it's that easy to remove, I'm going to remove the linkage and the PTO and just store it with my mower deck for the winter.
 

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So I took mine off today just to be safe, but I encountered these pins that I'm not used to. is there a trick for getting them off? I just forced it with a pair of pliers.

On a side note taking the auto connect off the tractor made it easier to grease the zerks on it. I just set it up on the workbench...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I took mine off today just to be safe, but I encountered these pins that I'm not used to. is there a trick for getting them off? I just forced it with a pair of pliers.

On a side note taking the auto connect off the tractor made it easier to grease the zerks on it. I just set it up on the workbench...
I looked at them and thought what the heck as well. Haven't removed the arms yet. Dropped the deck but putty knife ain't cutting it. Gonna borrow my FIL power washer tomorrow.


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So I took mine off today just to be safe, but I encountered these pins that I'm not used to. is there a trick for getting them off? I just forced it with a pair of pliers.

On a side note taking the auto connect off the tractor made it easier to grease the zerks on it. I just set it up on the workbench...
It's officially called a "Rue Ring" (because on a very cold day you will "rue the day" you tried to get it off. Another idea who's time came... and went!:laugh:


Pull the bent angle part until the round part will clear the pin then slide the GD thing off and toss it. Replace with a regular "hair pin" clip.

Rue Ring Locking Cotter Pin - YouTube
 

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So I took mine off today just to be safe, but I encountered these pins that I'm not used to. is there a trick for getting them off? I just forced it with a pair of pliers.

On a side note taking the auto connect off the tractor made it easier to grease the zerks on it. I just set it up on the workbench...
Grab the loop with pliers, turn clockwise a little and pull. It will come right off. I sort of like them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Grab the loop with pliers, turn clockwise a little and pull. It will come right off. I sort of like them.
Dropped the mower and auto connect hardware off the tractor this afternoon. I kinda like the clips as well. Won't loose them that's for sure.


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I removed the auto-connect hardware before putting on the snowblower last fall and again this year.

I mentioned to the mechanic at my dealer that it was kind of a pain, and he told me you don’t need to remove it.
He said that you can disconnect the adapter from the PTO shaft and place it in the “hook/bracket” attached to the frame, then raise the lift arms and put the deck height adjustment in the “lock” position.

I haven’t taken the time to check for the bracket yet.

Although it would be convenient to leave in place, I’m not sure I like the idea of leaving all that hardware under the tractor all winter while snow blowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I removed the auto-connect hardware before putting on the snowblower last fall and again this year.

I mentioned to the mechanic at my dealer that it was kind of a pain, and he told me you don’t need to remove it.
He said that you can disconnect the adapter from the PTO shaft and place it in the “hook/bracket” attached to the frame, then raise the lift arms and put the deck height adjustment in the “lock” position.

I haven’t taken the time to check for the bracket yet.

Although it would be convenient to leave in place, I’m not sure I like the idea of leaving all that hardware under the tractor all winter while snow blowing.
I'm with you there. That hardware is to expensive to leave under there all winter.


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The lift arms and pto connect can be removed in a mere 2 minutes by pulling 4 pins on the arms (no tools) and leaving it as a whole assembly. It wouldn't make sense to turn a wrench to remove the auto connect part and leave the arms in place. Just be sure to also remove the lift linkage too so they aren't just hanging there.

If you think you'll be climbing hills full of ice chunks it could get hung up on, the removal of the whole assembly is quick and painless.

(Edited to add the following) To clarify, here's a graphic of the mower lift linkages. If you pull pins 5 and 6 on both sides, the entire assembly (arms, rear draft, auto connect) will remove. Of course you have to disconnect the PTO shaft too. Be sure not to leave items 7 and 8 hanging and don't spin 8 because that affects your deck leveling. Next spring all you have to do it put 7/8 back on (with the round P shape facing the rear), attach the 4 pins and the PTO and you're good to go.

Can someone post this pic again?
 
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