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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. Need to replace the fuel pump on my old Chevy 1989 C2500 P/U with 8' bed (I baby this truck, only summer use). Instead of dropping the fuel tank , I'm considering pulling the bed. Has anyone done this with a 120R loader? Unsure of the weight of the 8' box. Anyone tackle something similar??
 

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I'm no help to your question, but if you get it worked out, get some pictures.
My gut feeling is a 120 loader is too small, the weight would be several feet out from the mounting frame, and you will need height.
But I would love for you to prove me wrong and make it happen
 

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Paging @trav
Spit balling here I think it’s only around 250-300 pounds for the bed without the tailgate. Are you thinking of pulling the whole thing off or just raising up the rear of it?
 
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@trav just lifted one side iirc and got to it all.

He'll be along in a bit with some pics
His was a 2001 I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. I suppose I could just lift one side or enough to get to the fuel tank. Just trying to think of the easiest method. If lifting the bed requires tons of rigging (that's why my thoughts are to use the tractor) it may be easier to drop the tank. NOT laying down and fighting 33 year old hardware and fuel lines etc does have me interested in working from the top down.
 

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Use labor. 4 guys can arm strong it off if you got a case of beer
 

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If you remove all bolts except the front and rear passenger side. Loosen them to last couple threads. You can lift and block up the drivers side enough to get to pump. Be sure to blow off all the dirt and debris from around the lock ring before removing it.
 

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Tilt the bed. My Chevy mechanic buddy changed mine on an 05 in less than an hour in my driveway. He just tilted the bed up on the gas tank side and loosened bolts on passenger side.
 

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Hi all. Need to replace the fuel pump on my old Chevy 1989 C2500 P/U with 8' bed (I baby this truck, only summer use). Instead of dropping the fuel tank , I'm considering pulling the bed. Has anyone done this with a 120R loader? Unsure of the weight of the 8' box. Anyone tackle something similar??
Yes, but with my 5075E .... no problem. 2025R, I don't that I'd try that other than finding a tall sturdy overhead structure, attach a pulley, and use it as a gantry crane using the tractor to raise and lower it. You can then use different pulley arrangements for mechanical advantage as well as a change of direction. A winch on a vehicle would work that way as well. Another approach could be lifting each side with the loader a little at a time alternating between the both sides one board at a time. This will build safe cribbing underneath too, then just roll it out from underneath far enough to do what you need to do.
 
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You can pick up the bed with the tractor you have. Two good average guys can lift it off. Just moved one two weeks ago with two of us. The problem will be the size not the weight. I would get the bed blocked up with 4x4 or larger, then get your forks under the bed on one side. Slide the forks in as far as you can get them. NOTE use an old blanket or get moving blankets from HF and place on the sides of the bed. Then get yourself a nylon lifting strap, long enough to reach from the tractor forks frame across the top of the bed and hook it under the bed frame. Lift and tilt the forks slowly as you raise the bed. You should have someone to watch as you lift to make sure nothing is still attached. It can be done you just have to be slow and careful.
 

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When I first had to change the fuel pump on my 2000 Silverado K1500 Ext Cab 8ft bed, I did the following.
  1. This was performed in a 2-bay garage but can be done outside too. All by myself.
  2. Tools required: 2-ton roll around engine hoist, 2 chains w/hooks or closing links (or lift straps), engine leveler (optional), 1/2" ratchet, long extension, socket (think it was 18mm in my case), allen wrenches (or allen sockets; can't remember size), a 4x4x8ft in cut in half, some bath towels, flat tip screwdriver (or body pin remover) and anti-seize thread saver.
  3. Unbolt all 8 bed bolts.
  4. Open up the fuel door and unbolt the filler neck from the bed. Was 2 hex head bolts (top) and a plastic push pin (bottom center). Make sure it is loose.
  5. Unplug the electrical harnesses at the back of the bed.
  6. Remove the tailgate. I did the first time but on the 2nd truck I left it on. Just keep it closed if left on.
  7. Bring in the engine hoist from the side at the front. I had a engine leveler attached to the hoist hook. I put a bath towel between the bed rail and hoist arm.
  8. Hook-up chains or straps to the bed tie downs. Mine are located in the bed rails on the in-side near the bed.
  9. Attach chains (or lift straps) to the engine leveler or hoist hook. This took trial and error to adjust the lengths correctly so the bed is lifted up without the hoist arm hitting the bed rail.
  10. Take up tension only but do not lift just yet.
  11. Slip bath towels between the rear bumper and the bed for protection. This will become your pivot point.
  12. Go over everything underneath to make sure everything is disconnected.
  13. Lift the front of the bed up high enough to slip the 4x4's in between the frame (just behind the cab) and the front of the bed. Note that when lifting the bed it will shift back to the bumper. That's is the reason for towels between the bumper to bed.
  14. This left me plenty of room to sit (on the roll around seat) or kneel to have full access to the fuel pump and wires.
  15. When complete drop the bed and reinstall what was removed. I used anti-seize thread saver on all the hardware just in case this has to be performed again.
It sounds like a lot of work but from start to finish the first time, I had the pump changed out in about 2 hours. The second time I did this on my 2001 Silverado K3500 DRW, I got it down to 1.5hours start to finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You can pick up the bed with the tractor you have. Two good average guys can lift it off. Just moved one two weeks ago with two of us. The problem will be the size not the weight. I would get the bed blocked up with 4x4 or larger, then get your forks under the bed on one side. Slide the forks in as far as you can get them. NOTE use an old blanket or get moving blankets from HF and place on the sides of the bed. Then get yourself a nylon lifting strap, long enough to reach from the tractor forks frame across the top of the bed and hook it under the bed frame. Lift and tilt the forks slowly as you raise the bed. You should have someone to watch as you lift to make sure nothing is still attached. It can be done you just have to be slow and careful.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
When I first had to change the fuel pump on my 2000 Silverado K1500 Ext Cab 8ft bed, I did the following.
  1. This was performed in a 2-bay garage but can be done outside too. All by myself.
  2. Tools required: 2-ton roll around engine hoist, 2 chains w/hooks or closing links (or lift straps), engine leveler (optional), 1/2" ratchet, long extension, socket (think it was 18mm in my case), allen wrenches (or allen sockets; can't remember size), a 4x4x8ft in cut in half, some bath towels, flat tip screwdriver (or body pin remover) and anti-seize thread saver.
  3. Unbolt all 8 bed bolts.
  4. Open up the fuel door and unbolt the filler neck from the bed. Was 2 hex head bolts (top) and a plastic push pin (bottom center). Make sure it is loose.
  5. Unplug the electrical harnesses at the back of the bed.
  6. Remove the tailgate. I did the first time but on the 2nd truck I left it on. Just keep it closed if left on.
  7. Bring in the engine hoist from the side at the front. I had a engine leveler attached to the hoist hook. I put a bath towel between the bed rail and hoist arm.
  8. Hook-up chains or straps to the bed tie downs. Mine are located in the bed rails on the in-side near the bed.
  9. Attach chains (or lift straps) to the engine leveler or hoist hook. This took trial and error to adjust the lengths correctly so the bed is lifted up without the hoist arm hitting the bed rail.
  10. Take up tension only but do not lift just yet.
  11. Slip bath towels between the rear bumper and the bed for protection. This will become your pivot point.
  12. Go over everything underneath to make sure everything is disconnected.
  13. Lift the front of the bed up high enough to slip the 4x4's in between the frame (just behind the cab) and the front of the bed. Note that when lifting the bed it will shift back to the bumper. That's is the reason for towels between the bumper to bed.
  14. This left me plenty of room to sit (on the roll around seat) or kneel to have full access to the fuel pump and wires.
  15. When complete drop the bed and reinstall what was removed. I used anti-seize thread saver on all the hardware just in case this has to be performed again.
It sounds like a lot of work but from start to finish the first time, I had the pump changed out in about 2 hours. The second time I did this on my 2001 Silverado K3500 DRW, I got it down to 1.5hours start to finish.
This is great, thanks for the detailed procedure!
 

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I loosened the bolts on the right side until they were almost all the way out, removed the bolts on the left side, removed the three screws holding the fuel neck to the bed and raised the left side of the bed with an engine hoist and then supported the bed with a jack stand between the bed and truck frame. Be careful not to pull against the wiring at the back of the bed, you might want to disconnect it first.

I used a shop vac to clean around the top of the tank before pulling the pump assembly out.

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I used my 1025R to replace bed on my 2003 Ford F250 with 8 foot bed. I used the pallet forks under rear of bed and ran ratchet straps to tie down hooks in front of bed to pallet fork frame. Tightened straps and tractor lifted bed off with ease. Be careful not to curl back to much or else front of bed will hit rear of cab.
 

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Maybe because I was younger, but we removed the bed of my ford F250 with two guys, it was awkward, but we did it easily. Grab four if you have friends willing to help, Just be smart about it and you have plenty of advice here, go for it, I would. We used to pull engines and connected tranny's with just a 4x6 using two trees and a chain fall....
Removal will also give you access to take care of anything that looks like it needs attention too.
Good luck.
 
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I replaced mine by just taking my air chisel and cutting an access panel in the bed. GMs are notorious for having their fuel pumps go. Figured I would have to replace it again eventually so just cut 3 sides rolled it open. Changed it from inside the bed then rolled it back down. Riveted a strap to hold it in place and then put the bedlinen back in.

Never understood why GM or any other manufacturer ever stamped out an access panel for them for as much as they go out.
 

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I replaced mine by just taking my air chisel and cutting an access panel in the bed. GMs are notorious for having their fuel pumps go. Figured I would have to replace it again eventually so just cut 3 sides rolled it open. Changed it from inside the bed then rolled it back down. Riveted a strap to hold it in place and then put the bedlinen back in.

Never understood why GM or any other manufacturer ever stamped out an access panel for them for as much as they go out.
My brother did that. He cut a square and threw a hinge on one side for later access.
 
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