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I recently did a full service on my 1026R. I haven't had the wheels off since I filled them at the last service in the fall of 2015, (yeah, more than a year but only 142 hours). Of course having to pull the left wheel to remove the tranny screen I knew I had to think of something. Even though these are small wheels, they are hefty when fluid filled. So made a little frame from 2x4 and used it to take the weight off as I pulled the wheel off the studs and to slide them back on. It worked good except next time I would make the frame a little longer under the tractor for a little better leverage and control. I would also consider mounting some little castor wheels on the end under the tractor just to make it easier.

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I thought the 1026R had lug "bolts" like the other small tractors? From the one photo it looks like you have studs with lug nuts. Lug bolts can be very difficult to line up without using some type of guide pin.
 

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This is a great idea! I cringe to think about removing my rear loaded tires. I figure they weigh ~250#.

What I really need something like this for is my pickup. I can't rotate or change over from summer to winter tires anymore - I just can't wrestle them back onto the lugs.
 

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I thought the 1026R had lug "bolts" like the other small tractors? From the one photo it looks like you have studs with lug nuts. Lug bolts can be very difficult to line up without using some type of guide pin.
What you can do is get one bolt in and well seated but not tight then put the tractor in neutral and rotate the bolt to the top let the tire hang and the rim find center and put the rest of the bolts in and then tighten them down.
 

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I thought the 1026R had lug "bolts" like the other small tractors? From the one photo it looks like you have studs with lug nuts. Lug bolts can be very difficult to line up without using some type of guide pin.
They do but I have wheel spacers so the bolt is used to attach the spacer and the spacer has a stud.

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They do but I have wheel spacers so the bolt is used to attach the spacer and the spacer has a stud.

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Ah hah! Studs certainly makes it a bit easier. My old Ford 9N had 13.6x28 fluid filled tires which were H-E-A-V-Y. The trick was to never let them fall over. Of course since it had conventional studs and lug nuts it wasn't too bad to get back on.
 

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When I use to work on tires of all sizes I always hoped the wheel was mounted with the drop center to the outside so you could take the tire off of the wheel without taking the wheel off but every now and then the drop center would be on the inside so you would have to take the whole tire/ wheel assembly off to repair it. I found the best way to put it back on was fully aired to max and a long leverage bar. Then after it was on let the pressure out and refill it with fluid and proper pressure. It worked on even the largest tires that were several hundred pounds without fluid. This was before we bought a boom truck.
 

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I just work the floor jack to get it in the right spot and a punch to get the holes lined up.
 

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I just work the floor jack to get it in the right spot and a punch to get the holes lined up.
I just leave it on. I see no need to remove the wheel to get to the screen. Was easily accessible with wheel in place. Backhoe subframe is more 'in the way' than the wheel.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just leave it on. I see no need to remove the wheel to get to the screen. Was easily accessible with wheel in place. Backhoe subframe is more 'in the way' than the wheel.

Tim
Hmmm, I never tried to remove the screen with the tire on, I might try that next time. In any case, I pulled both sides to check the torque on the wheel spacers anyway, ( I never used Locktite when I installed them).
 

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Hmmm, I never tried to remove the screen with the tire on, I might try that next time. In any case, I pulled both sides to check the torque on the wheel spacers anyway, ( I never used Locktite when I installed them).

Here is the video of it ...queued to the place where I removed the screen.

[video]https://youtu.be/IS1SjfmHK2s?t=12m19s[/video]

Now, I SHOULD HAVE taken the quick hitch off. That turned out to be more of a pain than the wheel.

..and other commenters have mentioned that removing the drawbar plate would help dramatically on those frustrating clamps.

Tim
 

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I just leave it on. I see no need to remove the wheel to get to the screen. Was easily accessible with wheel in place. Backhoe subframe is more 'in the way' than the wheel.

Tim
When you put your video out doing this, I thought I'd try it. But it was the 800 hour service and it wasn't long after I had put everything back together from the lay down and I wanted to check every where so I took both rear wheels off and had the tractor up on stands for 2 days. I might try it at 1000 hours which will be next year.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
When you put your video out doing this, I thought I'd try it. But it was the 800 hour service and it wasn't long after I had put everything back together from the lay down and I wanted to check every where so I took both rear wheels off and had the tractor up on stands for 2 days. I might try it at 1000 hours which will be next year.
Kinda my thinkin too Levi, I like to look around with less obstruction but I am definitely going to think twice next time. If I have nothing to gain by pulling the wheels then why??? :dunno:
 
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