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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, as promised in an earlier post, I will detail what is involved in removing the front and rear glass from the Mauser Cab as installed on a 1025R, including some pictures. I would also expect that this would apply to most Mauser cabs, as well as the ones mounted to a 2025R.

The Mauser manual states that the left and right doors can be removed for summertime use, but there is no info in regards to also removing the front and rear glass. I spent one summer with the front and rear glass on the tractor and I wasn’t too impressed. Not enough air flow for me.

This was my first time removing the front and rear glass and I can conservatively say that it took me no more than 15 minutes from start to finish. It is not a hard job at all, anyone can do it.

The only tools required for this job are a 13 mm socket and a pair of pliers. That’s it.

We’ll start with the front glass. First and foremost (and this applies to the rear glass as well), is to make sure the glass is locked in place to the window frame with the two handles. This is done to ensure that after the mounting hardware is removed that the glass doesn’t fall away from the tractor and smash on the ground.

Next step is to remove the front wiper arm. It is held on by a nut and washer. The arm itself is also partially held on by press fit/friction. A small amount of wiggling will pop it off the threaded stub.

The front glass itself is held on to the window frame by two fasteners. These are the black plastic dome shaped pieces on the inside of the cab. Now I need to make mention that there are two ways the front glass can be removed. One is the way I did, by unscrewing those black plastic dome fasteners or, the harder way is to remove the cab roof and undo the nuts from the inside that hold the hinges in place. I chose to leave the hinges in place and undo the glass from the hinges.

Mauser has a special tool, that for lack of a better description looks a lot like those wrenches used to remove grinding discs from a grinder, with the two small tabs that lock into the wheel. If you look at those black plastic dome fasteners you will see two small holes in the top of each one. I made my own tool from what I had on hand. I used two long handled torx screwdrivers that closely matches the inside diameter of the holes in top of the domes. Insert the torx screwdrivers in both holes and then use a suitable plier (I used a pair of channel locks), by clamping both steel shanks and twisting counter clockwise to unscrew the plastic domes.

Remove both fasteners and catch the plastic washers that will likely fall off from the outside of the glass.

Next is to carefully pry off the telescoping arms that are attached. Take the same pliers and gently twist and pry off the arm from the steel stem/ball. The other side of the arms will stay attached to the front window.

Now unlock both handles while holding onto the front glass and it will fall away from the window frame. There you go, front window done.

The rear window is very similar to the front. I also have the rear wiper option, so this may or may not apply to your situation.

We’ll start with the rear wiper. This time, the wiper and motor will stay with the window. All that is needed is to unplug the electrical connector.

There are two bolts attached with 13 mm nylock nuts and washers holding the rear window to the hinges. Again, make sure the rear window is locked in place. First is to disconnect the rear attaching telescoping arms like was done to the front window.

Then remove the two 13 mm nuts and washers from the hinge. Remove both bolts/washers. Then undo the window locks while supporting the window with the other hand and as the window falls away from the frame, set aside.

Gather up all hardware and reattach to removed windows and store in safe place till next fall.

As a side note, I also removed both mirrors and attaching arms from the cab for the summer time. You will need a 13 mm socket for this procedure.
There is a two piece plastic cover over where the mirror arm attaches to the window frame. Slide one piece up and the other piece down and that will expose the bottom of the steel barrel where the hidden 13 mm nylock nut is.
Undo the nylock nut and remove the washer and spring that are inside the barrel frame. Pull the mirror arm up and off and re attach the hardware and store away in safe place till next winter.


There we are. All glass removed from the Mauser Cab and now we have un ultra-deluxe canopy for the summer time.

Hopefully this post will assist other Mauser Cab owners who want to go 'glassless' .


 

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Great job,

Any idea what all the glass weighs? My Mauser cab has changed the center of gravity enough that I AM uncomfortable on a slope that was no issue before I installed the cab. I am considering wheel weights, wheel spacers or both. Just wonder if there is enough glass weight to make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Great job,

Any idea what all the glass weighs? My Mauser cab has changed the center of gravity enough that I AM uncomfortable on a slope that was no issue before I installed the cab. I am considering wheel weights, wheel spacers or both. Just wonder if there is enough glass weight to make a difference.
Not sure, but if I had to guess, the weight of both doors and front and rear glass... maybe 50 - 60 lbs.. may be a tad high.. :unknown:
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Excellent write up. The only question I have is, how are you storing the glass? I'd be afraid of just leaning it up somewhere in my garage so I'm curious if you came up with a way to keep it safe until you want to reinstall it.

And, thanks for the pix....they always help. :good2:
What I did with the doors last year and will with the other two pieces of glass, is to store them on edge, with door handles down on a piece of thick cardboard, and old blankets are draped between each glass to prevent scratching and nicks. And then stored between two benches. Seemed to work just fine, and out of harms way.

Others I have heard have stored them suspended against a garage or shop wall. A make shift sling out of some rope and hung from a sturdy lag bolt and again covered with blankets.

Up in the exposed rafters/trusses in an unheated building would be another option.
 

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I use Harbor freight moving blankets on my removed doors and rear panel. Soft , thick and cheap. Worked very well for me last summer.
 

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Great write up. Because of this I will be taking the front and rear windshields out tonight. For my doors I welded a 3" piece of 1/2 pipe top and bottom to a length of 1 1/2 angle iron. I drilled holes in that and mounted to the wall at the studs. The doors hang perfectly from it. Essentially I just duplicated what the cab has for mounting. Never tried to put pics here so no clue how to...…

Steve
 

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Excellent write up. The only question I have is, how are you storing the glass? I'd be afraid of just leaning it up somewhere in my garage so I'm curious if you came up with a way to keep it safe until you want to reinstall it.

And, thanks for the pix....they always help. :good2:
I've been removing my glass for a couple seasons now. If the weather permits and I remember, tomorrow I will weigh the side glass and post pictures of how I hang them in my shed. My guess is that they weigh about 50 lbs or so each. They are pretty heavy. :dunno:
 

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As I promised yesterday, I weighed the doors for my cab today. Each door weighs in at 45 lbs. The front and rear windshields are around 20 lbs each. Attached pictures should be self explanatory, showing how I store them in my shed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I believe the wrench you created is called a spanner wrench common use is for fan clutch



Yep, there you go... something just like that. Although the screwdriver trick works pretty well too.. lol .
 

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Yep, there you go... something just like that. Although the screwdriver trick works pretty well too.. lol .
I removed the window retainers using a pair of angle tipped needle nose pliers that would open far enough to reach across the fastener......It worked well also....like these (but it wasn't these as the tips are too large to fit the holes) and they are only about $4 at HF.....

At $4, one could grind down the tips to fit the window fasteners and just have it as a dedicated tool........



https://www.harborfreight.com/11-in-90-bent-nose-long-reach-pliers-64087.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products|All+Products|64087&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sKE0GgBvZ|pcrid|327822404853|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|64087|&pgrid=71439424048&ptaid=pla-296227499965&pcid=1688396772&gclid=CjwKCAjwiN_mBRBBEiwA9N-e_gvrEOgzs9R0188B13pI04t35KNW03f1nqTrpHG4HC80WqPKfr4bKRoCc7gQAvD_BwE

 

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As I promised yesterday, I weighed the doors for my cab today. Each door weighs in at 45 lbs. The front and rear windshields are around 20 lbs each. Attached pictures should be self explanatory, showing how I store them in my shed.
I used a similar approach except I hang my doors vertically, like they are mounted on the cab, up against the wall with the door hinge pins through the brackets. I also have storm door latch from the hardware that the cab door latch clasp assembly will actually snap over so the door is hanging like its mounted on the tractor and the door has to have the door handle button pushed to pivot the door away from the wall.......At over $800 each, you sure don't want anything happening to the door glass, or any glass for that matter.......

My cab glass is still on the tractor. Yesterday, I thought I was going to have to turn the heater on for awhile while mowing.........
 

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