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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I've read the posts for removing h120 loader to extend it all the way after latches are open until they automatically click down again so that parking stand is fully extended

Manual for h120 says to extend the cylinder and then to retract the cylinder until the latches come down - this seems to contradict the statement about fully extending

Reason I'm asking: with my single point connection I don't have enough hose to easily
Remove the single point if I've extended enough for latches to come down. I don't think dealer put enough hose on my mod or perhaps did not measure in fully extended position. If retracting the cylinder will also make the latches come down then maybe I do have enough hose...
 

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H120 Loader

The Dealer shouldn't have anything to do with the hoses. They should come from the factory to the required length. When taking off the front loader keep extending the lift and this should eventually drop the clamps that attach to the tractor. IF not then possible something else could be wrong.

NOTE: becarefull not to over stretch the hydraulic hoses. Then you will have a real mess.
 

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Hi all, I've read the posts for removing h120 loader to extend it all the way after latches are open until they automatically click down again so that parking stand is fully extended

Manual for h120 says to extend the cylinder and then to retract the cylinder until the latches come down - this seems to contradict the statement about fully extending

Reason I'm asking: with my single point connection I don't have enough hose to easily
Remove the single point if I've extended enough for latches to come down. I don't think dealer put enough hose on my mod or perhaps did not measure in fully extended position. If retracting the cylinder will also make the latches come down then maybe I do have enough hose...
So it sounds like you have a custom installed single point which may have been made too short.

As fort he latches, I'm not sure what you mean. This is how you remove the loader. You raise the front end off the ground with the loader, then move the latches up until they click, then use the hydraulics to raise/detach/position the loader until the parking stand is in a stable position. Don't forget the curl function when doing this. The latches then stay up until you reattach the loader, at which time you kick them down into position once everything is perfectly lined up (again, don't forget the curl function...it makes this much easier). If you do all this and your single point is still too short, go to the dealer. Though I don't know how it could be, since you had it attached at some point.

Perhaps you are not using the curl function and letting the bucket slide too far forward?

Also, how much did the dealer charge you for the single point?
 
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I never lift the loader up all the way (until the latches click shut). I admit that it is a good idea because that more or less locks the loader in the parked position. You are less likely to have problems re-installing the hydraulic lines due to pressue created by the loader settling when parked. I only lift my loader high enough to clear the mounting pins.

My loader is removed in my pavilion where it is always in the shade. I've never had problems installing the hydraulic lines.

So the dealer installed the single point and did not leave enough length in the lines so the loader can ge set all the way up into the park position.

2 choices - have the dealer correct it - or don't worry about it. Especially with the single point you should never have problems installing the hydraulics. Just lift it high enough to clear the pins and back away.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's right I haven't been using the curl function I suppose this would make the loader structure rock forward off the mast

The manual and many posters here say that the quick park stand is in stable position after the latches have clicked themselves back down - not sure the mechanism that makes it happen but I know as I continue to extend the cylinder they just suddenly snap down. I'm trying to make sure the latched are down when parking the loader because apparently this signals that the stand is stable - people have posted about their stands collapsing or folding up under their loaders and hen having the manually jack them up or get a few guys to do it

Previous poster yes my dealer did an aftermarket mod for me

As I recall about 700 for the part and 300-400 labor

Hi all, I've read the posts for removing h120 loader to extend it all the way after latches are open until they automatically click down again so that parking stand is fully extended

Manual for h120 says to extend the cylinder and then to retract the cylinder until the latches come down - this seems to contradict the statement about fully extending

Reason I'm asking: with my single point connection I don't have enough hose to easily
Remove the single point if I've extended enough for latches to come down. I don't think dealer put enough hose on my mod or perhaps did not measure in fully extended position. If retracting the cylinder will also make the latches come down then maybe I do have enough hose...
So it sounds like you have a custom installed single point which may have been made too short.

As fort he latches, I'm not sure what you mean. This is how you remove the loader. You raise the front end off the ground with the loader, then move the latches up until they click, then use the hydraulics to raise/detach/position the loader until the parking stand is in a stable position. Don't forget the curl function when doing this. The latches then stay up until you reattach the loader, at which time you kick them down into position once everything is perfectly lined up (again, don't forget the curl function...it makes this much easier). If you do all this and your single point is still too short, go to the dealer. Though I don't know how it could be, since you had it attached at some point.

Perhaps you are not using the curl function and letting the bucket slide too far forward?

Also, how much did the dealer charge you for the single point?
 

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1025 Single-Point

Reason I'm asking: with my single point connection I don't have enough hose to easily
Remove the single point if I've extended enough for latches to come down. I don't think dealer put enough hose on my mod or perhaps did not measure in fully extended position. If retracting the cylinder will also make the latches come down then maybe I do have enough hose...

We're gonna want just about every detail you can muster on that single point! :nunu: Including price, pictures, and part numbers :munch:

Awww the things dreams are made of :laugh:
 

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I never lift mine that high, when not in use it's on a concrete slab in my garage. The only time the latches ever did fall back down by themselves was the very first time I took it off, and even then it was only about a foot out of the saddles when they did come down on there own.:thumbup1gif:
 

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We're gonna want just about every detail you can muster on that single point! :nunu: Including price, pictures, and part numbers :munch:

Awww the things dreams are made of :laugh:
At least a couple of GTT members have added a single point to their 1 series. Here's a couple of links.

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/hydraulics/4496-how-install-single-point-1-series.html

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/hydraulics/10963-1025r-single-point-installed.html

Future dreams for me.
 

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That's right I haven't been using the curl function I suppose this would make the loader structure rock forward off the mast

The manual and many posters here say that the quick park stand is in stable position after the latches have clicked themselves back down - not sure the mechanism that makes it happen but I know as I continue to extend the cylinder they just suddenly snap down. I'm trying to make sure the latched are down when parking the loader because apparently this signals that the stand is stable - people have posted about their stands collapsing or folding up under their loaders and hen having the manually jack them up or get a few guys to do it

Previous poster yes my dealer did an aftermarket mod for me

As I recall about 700 for the part and 300-400 labor
I've had mine off for weeks without it sinking at all. I think the latches falling down is the "idiot proof" stable position, but it doesn't have to go that far if you have a feel for what is stable and isn't. Half the videos on youtube (more actually) don't show them clicking back down.

Just look at the stand. It's pretty clear when it's stable.
 

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The reason for raising the loader on the parking stand until the latches close is to keep the loader from settling while it is parked.
Many members have had the settling issue while the loader is parked & then had problems reinstalling in on the tractor.

As the loader raises up on the parking stand, the loader moves forward away from the tractor. Do you move the tractor forward so the tractor stays close to the loader?
 

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I've had mine off for weeks without it sinking at all. I think the latches falling down is the "idiot proof" stable position, but it doesn't have to go that far if you have a feel for what is stable and isn't. Half the videos on youtube (more actually) don't show them clicking back down.

Just look at the stand. It's pretty clear when it's stable.
Good point, same here, mine is always off unless I need it, then it comes back off again. I agree on the locks coming back down, by the way, did you get your 1025 back yet?
 
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Good point, same here, mine is always off unless I need it, then it comes back off again. I agree on the locks coming back down, by the way, did you get your 1025 back yet?
Not yet. But the x595 is doing a good job mowing. I'm going to miss not having ROPS.
 

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Not yet. But the x595 is doing a good job mowing. I'm going to miss not having ROPS.
I hear ya, looks like mine might be going in too, you really couldn't ask for anybody better to work with than Tom:thumbup1gif:
Scrubbing the right front tire, so probably a new front axle and new tire.
 
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I never lift the loader up all the way (until the latches click shut). I admit that it is a good idea because that more or less locks the loader in the parked position. You are less likely to have problems re-installing the hydraulic lines due to pressue created by the loader settling when parked. I only lift my loader high enough to clear the mounting pins.
I'm with coaltrain here. My FEL is in the barn on dirt when not on the tractor. I lift the FEL about 3" above the hook up point and then unhook the lines. It has never settled just sitting there till the next use. As I get off the tractor to unhook the lines I flip the latches down so hook up is ready. Must be nice though not having to get off to unhook/hook up. It's what dreams are made of.
 

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The latches then stay up until you reattach the loader, at which time you kick them down into position once everything is perfectly lined up ...
According to the manual the latches should return automatically. Here's a quote from the H120 manual;

"Retract bucket cylinders until latches (A) automatically return to locked (down) position."
 
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Discussion Starter #17
They only come down automatically if you extend the cylinders out further than you think you need to

I can't pull my tractor ahead after the latches are down- the stand presses up against my front frame and I can't move forward

The latches then stay up until you reattach the loader, at which time you kick them down into position once everything is perfectly lined up ...
According to the manual the latches should return automatically. Here's a quote from the H120 manual;

"Retract bucket cylinders until latches (A) automatically return to locked (down) position."
 

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...I can't pull my tractor ahead after the latches are down- the stand presses up against my front frame and I can't move forward
Neither can I. I don't see why that is an issue. Once the latches snap back down I shut down the tractor and disconnect the hoses, then start it up again and back out.
 
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I don't have quick attach hydro's but I have found my loader stays up even if I don't raise it enough to reset the latches. I still observe the stand to make sure it is vertical enough to prevent pressure build in the lines. I have plenty of hose so I normally creep the tractor when removing or installing to keep the front wheels near the stand and I end up flattening my bucket before I unhook because I found a curled bucket produces pressure in my fittings when stored.
 
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