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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone actually removed the ROPS? I understand its purpose, but I will be mowing around about 20 acres of apple trees. Hitting the branches there is lost profit....

On the previous Kubotas it has been a simple 8 bolts and its off. I didn't get a close look at it but the Deere looks more integrated.
 

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Can you get a folding ROPS?

The safety police will go nuts on this....just saying!!!
 

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The 1 series tractor the ROPS is a integrated piece to the frame of the tractor. Not sure on the older machines. I have seen a few people knock the pins out and then there is just the two bars sticking up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I should have mentioned, I'm talking about my new 1025R.

Shame that it can't be removed. That bit of knowledge may have swayed me to the Orange side (had I thought to ask before I bought it). I'll have to see how it goes I guess.
 

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If all your doing is mowing a x7xx may have been a better choice as they don't have the ROP and are fine mowers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If all I was planning to do was mow, I would have kept the LA145 I already had. Did a fine job mowing and cost about 9 times less...

It's fine, I'll just have to be extra careful. What is the width of the ROPS? maybe with the 60" deck it won't even be a problem.
 

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Personally...I think you'll be fine running without the rops, if the work you do requires it. And it sounds like it does, I cant see how the rops would need to be attached to keep the frame from flexing.If that was the case, then I would just have a 2"x2" x 1/4" wall piece welded that went straight from mount to mount....that would make it even more sturdy and cut out the giant loop of the rops. I believe there is already a frame piece put in from the factory that does what I just described. I say take it off....and save your profits in your orchard.
 

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The 1025r does still have the folding ROPS doesn't it? My 1025 has it. If it does, I guess you are not gaining enough clearance by folding it down? If you do not have a backhoe it can be folded down to the horizontal position and relocate the lights to the inside of the posts for protection. Or as Adamq suggested! the top is easy to remove and can be reinstalled when needed (ahead of time of course).
:lol:
 

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This is the ROPS breakdown on JD Parts. I don't see any structural reason it couldn't be removed here. As to remove it or not, every situation is different. We have a member on this board who probably owes his life to having the ROPS up on his 1 series when his tractor rolled over, and it makes a handy place to mount extra lights or even a canopy to keep the sun off. I know folks have removed the top portion and cut down the lower legs so they could retain the lights mounted there without having the entire ROPS as well. It all just depends on where you need to operate, what kind of work you're doing, and the amount of risk you're willing to take. Every situation is different.

I would suggest you try it with the ROPS in place and see how/ where it fits first, and make your decision from there.



0001659040____________A1.jpg
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
1......ROPS1
2SJ288434Pin2
3U17408Ring2
4LVU21409Bracket1Support
519M7809Bolt2
614M7296Flange Nut2M10
719M7790Bolt4
819M7793Bolt2
914M7299Flange Nut2M12
10LVA18488Support1
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
1114M7299Flange Nut6M12
1214M7486Nut2M22
1319M7844Bolt4
14LVU24132Plate2
1519M8456Bolt2
16LVU24788Bolt6M12 X 40
17LVU22165Pin2
18LVA18169ROPS1Domestic
19LVU24620BLEBracket2Not Illustrated, Light Mounting - Painted
20LVU12447Tie Band4Not Illustrated
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
21LVU24924U-Bolt2Not Illustrated
22LVU27021BLEPlate2Not Illustrated, FILB Light support Backing
2314M7397Lock Nut4M6 Not Illustrated
2419M7866Screw4M8 X 20 Not Illustrated
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. It looks a little involved to remove, but I think the advice to try it first to see how it goes is spot on. I'll just have to see. Most of the orchard is dwarf trees at this point, which are not nearly as wide as a standard tree.

Thanks for the help.
 

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On the very bottom if you see where the brackets make a 90 degree angle, that is where the hitch plate attaches too. There are other parts that attach to it as well when you look at a complete tractor that need to be there.
 

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Removed it!!

I punched the pins out of my folding ROPS about the 3rd time I mowed with it. Never ran with it up, except 1 time when I tried to get it into the garage.

The thing is a PITA for me.
 

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I leave mine at "half staff" to use as a handy grab handle when twisting around from "loader" to "backhoe" positions. It's also handy when you need to stand up and lean over to look down into a deep hole. And that's about all the use I can find for it... I'm on the level and don't really need it for it's intended purpose.

I have been looking into possibly putting the work lights under the crossbar for winter use and using it in the up position, but I'll probably knock the shop down again after I'm done plowing. Funny how there's always 1,000 things more important to think about than lowering that ROPS!:laugh:
 

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yep

I had to punch out the pins and try it...I was trimming off moma's flowering trees every time I was close to them. I would be riding around yard with flowering branches hanging off the ROPS...I got into trouble!
Now I wish the grass chute on mower deck was half the length. I cant get very close to stuff with it hanging out there seems like a yard!
Hap
 

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Now I wish the grass chute on mower deck was half the length. I cant get very close to stuff with it hanging out there seems like a yard!
Hap
utility knife.jpg

:thumbup1gif::usa
 

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Is there enough tube left to hold a shovel or rake handle down in there?:laugh:
 

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Now just cut off the flip down top section and weld it on to the stubs sticking up and it should be about the height of the seat back. That would give a nice mounting for the lights and a convient arm rest when viewing behind.
Or... save some time and just duct tape the lights to the stubs.:laugh:
 
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