Thanks for the link. That does help. I kind of figured the retaining ring and pin needs to be removed but wanted to be sure before I go to all the work.Welcome to GTT GotMeATractor.
Not me but I assume my day will come.
A good read here...
2320 drive shaft rear joint failed, HELP! - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
Don't forget where you got this link. We want you back here on GTT. :lol:
Hey thanks for the info. Any amount of detail will help. A pin inside another pin sounds unusual. I guess I will find out what that is all about. The tech at the dealer mentioned I may need to 'tilt' the engine forward a bit to get the drive shaft to clear the splines. I will post my experience with this for the next guy who wants to do this on their own. And yes, I did not know the u-joints needed lubing until I started reading some of the threads in this forum. The operators manual leaves a bit to be desired. Some of the information it gives does not even match my tractor and it is supposed to be a manual strictly for a 2320.If it is anything like the 2305 , you have a pin inside another pin and a snap ring that needs to be removed just behind the engine.
Then I think that allows the driveshaft to slide forward and then loose from transmission.
Worst part was then trying to get the driveshaft down , had to remove the MMM brackets and hangers. This was replacing the bearing that holds the transmission cooling fan to driveshaft.
We lifted the tractor high enough off ground so we could move pretty easy . For some reason I think the dealer told me it would take them 6 hrs and it took my BIL and myself about 8 total. The hardest was getting to the snap ring and putting that snap ring back in place.
Finally I called the shop foreman at the dealership and he brought a longer handle snap ring tool ,.. took him maybe 20 secs .. I had been trying for 90 mins or more.
Wish you luck.:munch:
Update: When I originally spoke with the tech at the dealer he told he would talk to the his territory guy about John Deere covering the repair in part or in its entirety but he was quite certain the territory guy would not agree to that since the tractor is 7 years old even though I told him about the manual not indicating that the drive shaft needed to be greased. Thanks to this forum I was able to find the John Deere bulletin 88233 (dated 12/14/2010) and I called the tech back, told him about the bulletin, and he looked it up and found it. He said he had never seen the bulletin before or heard of this but the fact that it exists could help my case with the territory guy to get John Deere to pay for the repair. Will keep you posted.Has anyone replaced the drive shaft themself on a 2320? The front U-Joint on mine is disintegrating. I'd like to know how to remove the drive shaft once you get to it. Dealer wanted around $2000 to replace it so I guess I will do it myself.
I used 2 heavy duty Williams C-Clamps on the side of the motor mounts it pulled the engine far enough to remove the drive shaftJD 2320 drive shaft replacement
First time ever posting but wanted to share. The front u-joint went out at 429 hours. Didn't know it was hidden up there. Anyway, read the rest of the replies for details but the main thing I wanted to share was to get the drive back on, place the rear spline on first and you will have to loosen the motor mounts and move the engine forward to get the front spline on. Don't forget to place the snap ring on the stub shaft first. The motor mount brackets have a flange so you can use a vise grip to squeeze the flanges together enough to get the front spline on. Only takes about 3/8 of an inch but what an ordeal. The next hard thing will be trying to grease the thing. Shame on those JD engineers.
Great job on the video. I have the u-joints, just waiting for the weather to warm a bit. I'll write a note to check the size of the hole for the grease fitting to fit in. I just looked at both of the Moog joints that I have. They appear to have a small washer between the grease fitting and the bearing cap. Looking at the inside the end of the fitting looks flush to the inside of the bearing cap.This is the only video you need...