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Clutch bearing seizure is common with this lawn mower, resulting in the mower not disengaging with the PTO switch. Early signs may be intermittent or may appear upon starting the engine after the unit has not run for a while.

Here are a couple quick tests to verify the problem: First, with the ignition on, activate the PTO switch for the electro-magnetic clutch and a distinct click should be heard if the unit engages. This is strong evidence there is no electrical problem from broken or non-contacting wires. The second test is to check the deck drive pulley for rotation when the PTO is switched off. To eliminate other causes such as drag from the blades or belts, release the mower belt tension lever in front of the right rear tire. (CAUTION: this spring-loaded lever can be a finger smasher.)

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Now, try to turn the pulley by hand.
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If it’s immobile, the bearing is probably seized.
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The only other possibility is that the air gap between the armature and the rotor has diminished or has become fouled, but this is highly unlikely since the friction instead tends to wear the faces to widen the gap and the rotation self-cleans this space.

Reports indicate this bearing is difficult or impossible to replace, but it’s rather simple. Remove the entire electric clutch by first removing the bolt and washer from the bottom of the drive shaft and then wedging and rocking the clutch with a couple large screw drivers to work it down the shaft. An impact wrench is not needed if the starting ring gear is accessed through the air cleaner access port and a large bladed screwdriver is inserted between cogs on to immobilize the drive shaft.
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Keep a mental picture of how the clutch is positioned as it’s removed. It’s not possible to replace it incorrectly, but it can make the job very tedious if it’s mispositioned.

At a workbench, remove the bearing retainer clip and the nuts from the three adjustment bolts. Then place the unit on a firm surface, preferably wood, and insert a socket about the same size or a little smaller than the I.D of the bearing and start whacking it with a hammer to drive the sleeve down. The springs counteract the force of striking and the shaft gradually “sinks away” as the pulley rises. An alternative is to place the unit over an opening and suspend the pulley with a couple of steel straps and pound the shaft out of the pulley in like manner, or a press could be used if one is available. View attachment 330322
This section of the brake plate becomes detached, so save the springs now. If the bearing is rusted in, a 50:50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is excellent for freeing frozen components (this mixes like water and oil, so shake well while applying.) Apply it repeatedly for a day or two if necessary until the bearing and sleeve can be driven out.

The bearing needed is a 6206 DU and it costs ~$10 at a local bearing supplier. Clean the bearing receptacle, the sleeve, and the faces of two clutch plates before replacement continues. Whether you press or pound the bearing, it’s important to use “bearing etiquette” by always applying force evenly over the entire bearing so there aren't unequal or focal forces on the balls and races. I used this large spacer washer that covered both the internal and external races, but a block of wood would work similarly.
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Reinstall the three springs before realigning the separated pieces of the clutch with the pulley and bearing on the shaft sleeve of the other portion of the clutch and, while on the firm surface with a corresponding block under the opposite bearing to support it during impact, tap or pressure them together. With a little care, the bearing inserts easily. Tighten the nuts to about their original extent for starters, then use a feeler gauge through the three slots to adjust them to leave 0.015” air gap.
Do this repeatedly since tightening one changes the gap with the others. At this point the brake function of the clutch is engaged and you won’t be able to turn the pulley. But before installing, it can be tested by temporarily reconnecting the wires, energizing the PTO switch, and the pulley should rotate.
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Replacing the clutch is the most difficult part of the process. Removing the deck with the tractor up on jacks facilitates better accessibility, but in the time it takes to do all that it can replaced with the deck on. Making a mark out to the edge of the pulley in line with the keyway helps to align the key, although the sleeve cannot be rotated without dropping it off the shaft again. Once the clutch can be started up the shaft correctly, place a jack under it to hold it temporarily and then rotate the triangular plate to align the slot with the positioning pin toward the rear of the tractor.

With a washer or block on the jack to guard the bearing again, start jacking the pulley onto the shaft while tapping and wiggling as you go. Install the bolt and tighten using the screwdriver in the cogs as before and then reconnect the electrical clip in the right frame channel. That inaccessible hanger for this clip can be replaced by threading a zip-tie through its hole and around the frame.
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Take it out for a test drive and it should be ready to mow lawns.
 

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Nice write up but the attachments don't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No help from web admin.`

Nice write up but the attachments don't work.
I know they didn't work and I can't seem to get any help from the webmaster as to why. They show on my preview, but didn't show when it was posted.

Anybody out there w/ advice????
 

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Hopefully one of the mods can get you the help you need.
 

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The files are not on the GTT server so there is not much help I can offer.
 
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