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I'm looking for tips to install new scarifier tips on my 53" Woods box blade. It has the dimples on the curved metal part (that goes up and down). I slid the tooth on, marked the tooth over the spot that was over the dimple. Then I tried heating the tooth with a standard plumbing torch and quickly struck a ball peen hammer with a 4 lb sledge. It still wiggles and I don't want to loose another one.
Any suggestions? I am trying to avoid bothering my neighbor that has a welder, but...
 

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I'm not sure exactly what style of tip you have. Do you have a photo you can share?

There seems to be dozens of videos on YouTube showing how to replace bucket teeth of various styles. Perhaps one of them uses the same retaining system as yours.
 

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Wiggle

I'm not sure exactly what style of tip you have. Do you have a photo you can share?

There seems to be dozens of videos on YouTube showing how to replace bucket teeth of various styles. Perhaps one of them uses the same retaining system as yours.
I'm not sure you can totally get rid of the wiggle unless you have a punch that almost exactly fits the dimple in the shank. I'm sure they use a press to manufacture the shanks/tips combo.

If you have a hydraulic press you could use an old ball bearing and press into the dimple. You might even do it with a large vise. Use a quick dab of crazy clue to stick the ball bearing on there and acetone to get it off.

Otherwise, I'm might just use it.

Treefarmer
 

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I had so many problems getting my tips on my bucket I built for cleaning out the barn. I could not get the drive in pins to hold worth a crap and just welded them on. Mine used a keeper pin with a rubber center you drove thru a hole not the dimple type. I figured I will never have to replace them in my lifetime and did it that way. 100_0439.JPG Just noticed a little of my orange drift fence got in this picture from last year.
 

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I had so many problems getting my tips on my bucket I built for cleaning out the barn. I could not get the drive in pins to hold worth a crap and just welded them on. I figured I will never have to replace them in my lifetime and did it that way. View attachment 669512
That looks wicked, like a root rake. Nice job. :bigthumb:
 
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Works great for getting in and under the packed straw to lift it up and take it away plus rip up brush. I cut the cheap angle edges off the ends and welded 1" Box steel 1/4" thick inside the box steel to beef it up and welded on proper tips so I would not bend them. There strong enough I can stall my loader in straw prying it up if I go to deep.

This is the tips I used I had a problem making the pins hold solid. Tip.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks to all for taking the time to respond.

The top shows the 2 parts before assembly and you should be able to see the dimple.

The bottom one was the sorry-ass job I did on my first attempt with a torch and beating with a ball peen hammer.

Tom

IMG_20190128_205031438.jpg
 
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Thanks to all for taking the time to respond.

The top shows the 2 parts before assembly and you should be able to see the dimple.

The bottom one was the sorry-ass job I did on my first attempt with a torch and beating with a ball peen hammer.

Tom

View attachment 669520
Those look like you just pound them on and the dimple would go into the dent in the ripper tooth. Maybe if you squeeze them in a little then slip them on the tip take the ripper tooth and use it like a hammer and hit the tip real hard and knock it on. The thickness of the steel on the sides does not look strong enough to stop it from popping on.
I would weld them a little to keep them on, if needed to come off later grind off the weld.

Bugged me those replacement tips don't have a dimple on them? Do they want you to use a center punch and a small hand sledge hammer to punch the steel into the dent? If so you would need to set it on like a anvil and clamp it tight and square to hit it hard enough to bend them in and not open up the slot more in the process. Or use a hydraulic press and a smaller ball bearing to push the steel into the rippers dent and flip it over to do the other side. Might be able to heat up the steel red hot slip the tip on then punch it into the ripper. I would not heat it while on the ripper.
 

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Are those the right ones? I would think the replacements would have the corresponding dimples to lock the new teeth in place. A propane torch will not get the metal hot enough to make the metal softer. A MAP gas torch might, and I would also use a punch to dimple the new teeth so they are secure on the scarifier.
 

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Are those the right ones? I would think the replacements would have the corresponding dimples to lock the new teeth in place. A propane torch will not get the metal hot enough to make the metal softer. A MAP gas torch might, and I would also use a punch to dimple the new teeth so they are secure on the scarifier.
Yes those are the OEM Woods p/n replacement teeth and they do look like the same ones that came with the unit.
Tom
 
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