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I am sure I need a new SCV valve on my 2013 1025R. Experiencing bucket drop especially with forks. Very expensive for me to get tractor to dealer and back. How difficult to replace it myself? I am relatively handy. Any advise or suggestions please
 

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I am sure I need a new SCV valve on my 2013 1025R. Experiencing bucket drop especially with forks. Very expensive for me to get tractor to dealer and back. How difficult to replace it myself? I am relatively handy. Any advise or suggestions please
What is it doing? And is it just the bucket cylinders?


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I am guessing the bucket cylinders. 120 hours
I haven't seen any issues with scv on these tractors with that low hours More than likely it's the cylinders but could be wrong. Take cylinders off and pressure test them and see if they bleed by. If so then they need to be resealed with the kit.


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There was a big problem with some of the earlier 1025s and later 1026s and 1023e's with we called Droop before Curl. Do a search and you'll see the SCVs were eventually replaced by JD.
 

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There was a big problem with some of the earlier 1025s and later 1026s and 1023e's with we called Droop before Curl. Do a search and you'll see the SCVs were eventually replaced by JD.
Now that you say that I remember one of the guys saying something about it. But I have had to deal with it so far.


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Mine is a '13 also and had to have the valve replaced because of the droop issue. Had maybe 20 hours on it when that happened.


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Discussion Starter #10
I have read the past threads on bucket drop before curl. Sounds like my problem. Anyone know how difficult it is to replace the SCV myself?
 

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Drawing:

1025.jpg


Dual SCV
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
139M1709Knob1
2LVU28491Control Lever1SUB FOR LVU22106
3R26448O-Ring7
438H1160Adapter Fitting2
5T77613O-Ring7
6LVA17968Oil Line1Flow Divider to DSCV
7LVA17051Oil Line1DSCV to RCV
8LVA16793Oil Line1DSCV to Tank
914M7298Flange Nut5M8
1038H1004Elbow Fitting1
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
11LVU23147Boot1
1214M7296Flange Nut2M10
1303M7191Bolt2M10 X 25
1440M1826Snap Ring4
1519M7867Bolt2
16LVU22908Support1Coupler
17LVA16843Hyd. Quick-Connect Coupler4
18W53383Plug1Dust, Blue
W53385Plug1Dust, Black
W53384Plug1Dust, Yellow
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
W53382Plug1Dust, Red
M132034Plug1Green Male Dust
19LVA16846Oil Line1Dump
20LVA16850Oil Line1Lower
21LVA16847Oil Line1CURL
22LVA16849Oil Line1Raise
23LVU22817Elbow Fitting4
2419M7801Bolt3
25LVA19131Manual Hydraulic Valve1INCLUDES LVA19158, LVA16974, LVA16975, LVA17474, LVA17475, LVA17477 AND AW34590
2614M7152Nut1M10
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTYSERIAL NO.REMARKS
27LVA17943Support1For Loader Valve
28LVU26628Support1
29LVU26915Bracket1
3019M7660Screw3M8 X 20
3124M7238Washer38.700 X 17 X 2 mm
32LVA20699Knob1
33AW34508Handle
 

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I can't say how easy it is to replace the SCV, but the price of a new valve is just north of $850.00 (before any discount). I had mine replace under warranty a few years ago.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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Any update on this? I think I'm having a problem with mine. The bucket will not go down. It goes down about an inch then starts grinding but will go down eventually if it's set to float. I'm trying out all the different quick connectors now. The problem is definitely with the blue Quick Connect to the head of the loader pistons. When I swap the hoses, the loader goes down but not up. What are the odds it's just the socket side of the quick connect?
 

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Any update on this? I think I'm having a problem with mine. The bucket will not go down. It goes down about an inch then starts grinding but will go down eventually if it's set to float. I'm trying out all the different quick connectors now. The problem is definitely with the blue Quick Connect to the head of the loader pistons. When I swap the hoses, the loader goes down but not up. What are the odds it's just the socket side of the quick connect?
I had an issue similar to what you are describing with the dump/curl function on my 1025R. The dealer replaced both the quick disconnect (female end) and the coupling on the hydraulic hose (male end), and it fixed the problem. The quick connects weren't opening and closing properly which inhibited or stopped fluid flow. Just something to consider.
 

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Turned out the socket side of the QD was the culprit although I replaced both ends to make sure everything matched. For anyone needing to replace one, it's held in by a C-clip so you'll need a good C-clip pliers. My tractor is a 2015 and has a 20mm 6-sided nut pattern to screw onto the hydraulic line. It is behind the bracket and a tight fit. The new one has a 22mm pattern in front of the bracket which is easy to get to.

As a side note, the bucket drops about twice as fast as it used to. If you can afford an extra $40, you may want to replace both up and down while you're dripping in hydraulic fluid.
 
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